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Fuel Door Broken
#1
Fuel Door Broken
On a roadtrip, went to fuel up and when I was done... the fuel door would not pull itself closed. I pushed on it, whatever spring or band was there pulling it closed is no longer functioning. 37500 miles on an '09.
Has anyone else had any issues? This really bothers me because of the no fuel cap design. Will have to take it to the dealer when I get home and find out what's the solution.
Has anyone else had any issues? This really bothers me because of the no fuel cap design. Will have to take it to the dealer when I get home and find out what's the solution.
#4
Honestly, I've never heard of a broken fuel door in my life... surely it is covered under warranty. Or you could replace it with one of those fancy chrome cap looking things.
The actual door has nothing to do with the "no-cap" system, from what I understand, so I don't think it will affect fuel pressure or get water in the system - if it does worry you much, this is why God gave us duct tape
#6
#7
Mine has tape to stop this from happening. Started last night; Went to close the fuel door and I felt a very slight stuttering to the spring action when I push on it. And now the spring action is askew. Also when you push the door closed it is no longer centered in the hole, off by an 1/8".
Was this ever resolved. Dealer price of $50-$80 depending on Vin# for a replacement part- excluding paint to match door.
Anyone know what's going on? Are there any lotech solutions not involving duct tape - on the outside at least?
So far the truck has been a champ- One warranty service 2 weeks ago for condensation in one brake light assembly, and whose to say if that wasn't the result of trailering damage. Unfortunately just turned 39k on the odometer today so out of warranty- we went on vacation, Alot
thanks,
Tim
Was this ever resolved. Dealer price of $50-$80 depending on Vin# for a replacement part- excluding paint to match door.
Anyone know what's going on? Are there any lotech solutions not involving duct tape - on the outside at least?
So far the truck has been a champ- One warranty service 2 weeks ago for condensation in one brake light assembly, and whose to say if that wasn't the result of trailering damage. Unfortunately just turned 39k on the odometer today so out of warranty- we went on vacation, Alot
thanks,
Tim
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#8
#10
I realize this is an old post, but recently had this happen on my 2010 truck. Bought the new gas filler part on Amazon for $42 and installed it in 10 minutes. Very easy to do. Remove 3 screws. Use a screw driver to pry out the old one. Remove the outside plate and transfer to the new piece. Put the new one in place and retighten the 3 screws. Never had to crawl under the truck.
#11
Here are some pictures to help with the instructions
This one shows the tab you need to pry out a little to remove the door in order to put it on the new "housing"
This one shows the 3 screws you need to remove
This is the part I ordered off Amazon
This is the old one. When you remove it pry on the top right and bottom right sides first. Then is should swing out. After removing it, I realized my spring didn't break, there is a plastic piece that loosened up. I pushed it back together with a water pump pliers and I can now reuse this one if the new one I put in ever breaks. I can't stress how easy this was to replace. I am a desk jockey for a living and it took 10 minutes.
This one shows the tab you need to pry out a little to remove the door in order to put it on the new "housing"
This one shows the 3 screws you need to remove
This is the part I ordered off Amazon
This is the old one. When you remove it pry on the top right and bottom right sides first. Then is should swing out. After removing it, I realized my spring didn't break, there is a plastic piece that loosened up. I pushed it back together with a water pump pliers and I can now reuse this one if the new one I put in ever breaks. I can't stress how easy this was to replace. I am a desk jockey for a living and it took 10 minutes.
#12
Here are some pictures to help with the instructions
This one shows the tab you need to pry out a little to remove the door in order to put it on the new "housing"
This one shows the 3 screws you need to remove
This is the part I ordered off Amazon
This is the old one. When you remove it pry on the top right and bottom right sides first. Then is should swing out. After removing it, I realized my spring didn't break, there is a plastic piece that loosened up. I pushed it back together with a water pump pliers and I can now reuse this one if the new one I put in ever breaks. I can't stress how easy this was to replace. I am a desk jockey for a living and it took 10 minutes.
This one shows the tab you need to pry out a little to remove the door in order to put it on the new "housing"
This one shows the 3 screws you need to remove
This is the part I ordered off Amazon
This is the old one. When you remove it pry on the top right and bottom right sides first. Then is should swing out. After removing it, I realized my spring didn't break, there is a plastic piece that loosened up. I pushed it back together with a water pump pliers and I can now reuse this one if the new one I put in ever breaks. I can't stress how easy this was to replace. I am a desk jockey for a living and it took 10 minutes.
#13
Glad to know there's a cheap & easy fix for this. When I had my oil changed at a local dealership recently, the service writer mentioned they replace the gas doors often. He warned me not to let the door "slam" shut, but to gingerly close it. Apparently the slamming causes the spring to pop off. He said it was a $250 repair...
#14
I had this happen on my 2012 a couple months ago. After taking the assembly apart I found that the rod that holds the door to the spring assembly backed out and out of index. I indexed it and pushed the rod back down and all is well for now. If it does it again I will install a small screw or cotter pin or something to keep it in place.
#15
I had the rod also back out on my 2011 yesterday. I reassembled the unit and drilled/tapped the end of the rod with a 6-32 UNC thread and installed a screw/washer to retain the rod. The top of the molded retainer for the spring on the housing was also cracked partially off so I removed the remaining piece and drilled/tapped the upright with an 8-32 UNC thread and installed a socket head cap screw/washer. Both received thread locker and now it's better than new.