I have to replace the park brake backing place on one side because it rusted out and loose parts have been rattling around in the park brake drum for a few weeks now.

I have to pull the rear axle hub/bearings to get in far enough to replace the backing plate. The rear bearings are in fine shape so I plan to just replace the axle seal and re-torque the old bearings. (160K mi. old) What special torque setting and steps should use for the axle bearing?

Also, where have you guys found the specialty rear axle socket to remove the axle nut?

Anything else I should watch for?

Thanks!

 

Finally... (not in happy finally way) someone else in the X forum with the Superduty rusted out brake backing plate.

I too have the same issues... I did alot of searching a month ago or so and found this to be the best how to:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html

I too picked up the backing plates from RockAuto and plan to do the fix when the school year ends... summer vacation! I have looked a few places for the tool but have not found one other than ones on line for 50 - 60 bucks.

If you do it soon... post about the fix. Good luck.

 

Just found a great source for the axle nut socket. Mile Marker makes the socket, # 15009-01 and it is for all F250, F350 and Excursions with the 10.5 rearend.

I found it at AutoZone.com priced at $20.99 with $6 shipping. The OTC 6601 part number is much more expensive at the $40+ range

I hope this helps others.

 

Thanks for the heads-up.

 

great post up about the replacement! im new to this site and this post was forever ago but im hoping to get an answer to this...i have followed these instructions over and over, even downloaded instructions from skf bearing manufacturer, and im still feeling a slight wobble when i shake the top of the wheel in and out when the rig is on the ground. im talking shaaaake back and fourth to get the pig movin side to side. i have a real good mechanical background but this is the 3rd time in a year ive replaced these bearings. you guys that have done this know the bearings and seals cost around 2 hundos each time around! soo you can imagine my slight frustrations. i torque to 60ft lbs then back off 5 clicks (with new bearings) just to make sure im "feeling" the clicks right i even tighten back to 60 then back it off 5 clicks again...usually do this about 6 times over and over haha juuuust to make sure...button everything back up take for a test drive and boom i still feel a little shimmy when i shake the top of the wheel while on the ground, what seems to be a slight bearing play...idk... i mean ive done this over and over. part of me feels this info is wrong because ive done this several times but only finding the same info on other forums, idk what im doing wrong?! i do it exactly as its stated but to no avail