How computer savvy are you? By far the best tuning solution will be with something like the Moates Quarterhorse that you tune yourself via laptop, the dyno tune shops are primarally focused on maximizing HP and some of the techniques used will absolutely destroy fuel milage. Dyno time is expensive and it's entirely likely you will need dozzens of tunes burned before you get the motor right where you want it, and all those won't cost you a cent extra after you place the initial investment... which is probably only equavelent to a single dyno session.

As for heads and intake, you should be looking at products like the AFR185 or RHS or Dart irons for sure, and you probably won't find a better intake than the TFS R series.

 

I suck at computers But im not an idiot so maybe I could learn. I was just under the assumption that dyno is the only true way to know hp, torque etc. Is there somewhere I can learn about the programs? I kinda want to "set it and forget it", if you will

As for the heads im going to assume the dart and rhs need to be the 185s as well.

Thanks again
Will

 

Conanski,

One more thing, The 185 have 2.02 valves, Which piston will I need to get to make sure they dont smack each other.

Thanks again
Will

 

You can check out this thread we had going a couple months ago on tuning your setup. It gives you a good idea of what's involved...if you go your own route. Look to spend around at least $500 if you have tuned a dyno shop.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-others.html

Also....don't forget you will need at least 30# injectors and minimum of 190 lph pump....as a fuel system upgrade.

 

Honestly, I think you're worrying about it too much. I wouldn't try to re-engineer it...these kits are made to bolt together. The rod ratio is about as good as you'll find and I don't think you'll have any issues. It's a SCAT crank and the same kit as everyone else sells. 25 years ago we had to use a 400M crank or offset grind cranks, cut counter balances down, use 360 Mopar rods, 351C pistons, custom balance.......all kinds of different things to build a stroker motor. Now you just buy the kit at a fraction of the cost and bolt it together. Just enjoy it!

IF you get the 351 Superstock rods, they are already rebuilt to performance standards. Probably can't have yours rebuilt for the money, unless yours are already re-done and ready to go. I don't know what the A or C rings are...probably has to do with the ring width. I would call & talk to them. I would take the whole assembly (and your flywheel and harmonic balancer) to a machine shop & have it all performanced balanced. You'll have a real stump puller that should last 100K easy if you take care of it.

 

That sounds great, exactly what I wanted to hear. As for the heads is one better than the other Or is it just that the afrs are aluminum.

I sold the throttle body and maf I bought yesterday to a buddy for a small profit so I have some cash to buy good quality parts there as well. Is one brand better than the other when it comes to throttle bodies?

Oh yea which hydraulic cam should I use.

Thanks again for all the help.

Will

 

One more thing I just thought of. Will the stock distributor be ok or will I need to upgrade that as well. I have the stock speed density distributor.

Thanks again
Will

 

All the heads Conanski listed are good. I've been out of the loop on aftermarket Windsor heads (doin' the Modular thing) for several years, so I can't tell you which ones are best/better. My personal opinion, aluminum heads are great for weight savings, but I would rather have iron so I don't have to worry about stripped threads, differences in thermal expansion and the added cost. There are, however, many guys running aluminum heads without issue and they have kinda become the standard. Almost any aftermarket head will be a vast improvement, you just don't want the ones with the larger high RPM ports. I'm a cheapskate, so I would try to score a good used set from the local 5.0 Mustang crowd for cheap. I would go with the cheaper Professional Products or Summit house brand 75mm if you're going single TB. Once again, I would go roller cam (with a conversion kit) but it's not required. I thought the cam you have now looks pretty good.....but I would get the stroker kit, intake & heads first, then pick the cam based on compression, head flow, intake, gear ratio, vehicle weight and all other factors combined.

 

Sounds good,

Thanks again for all the help.

Will

 

So are you speaking for every dyno-tuning shop, everywhere? Even the ones that are sponsors here?

Have you had a bad experience at your local dyno tuning shop?

 

Will, below is a link to an article about stroker motors. They cover the basics ones, but it will give you an idea of the things to look for. Also, if you search their tech articles, there's one that's a comparison between the different sizes (port volume) of Dart SBF cylinder heads that they performed on a 302 based stroker.

Ford Small-Block Stroker Engine Build - Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine

 

I called a couple different suppliers today and a local shop. They all seemed to like the 408 due to rod ratio. Dss especially. Is there any truth in this. Just thought I should ask.

Thanks again for all the continued help.
Will

 

Yes, the 408 does have a longer rod and slightly better ratio. 6.20/4.00=1.55 ratio. The 393 is 5.956/3.85=1.547 ratio. I wouldn't think that would be enough of a difference to worry about, but I'm no expert. Overall, the 408 will make more power and has a forged crank, H beam rods & forged pistons. The DDS 408 is race quality parts, but also 2X the price. If I was building a race motor, that would be the one. I'm not going to argue with them, they know way more about it than I do! I just assumed they offered the 393 kit for budget minded daily driver people with mild applications just like yours. Wonder why they advertise the "NEW" 393 kit if they're just going to push people toward the 408. Probably to compete with everyone else. Did they say the 393 wouldn't work or is questionable in terms of design, or just that the 408 is better?

 

They said the 393 was good but for I want to do the 408 was better. They stated the rod ratio was better in the 408. Also that the pistons in 408 were better. They said do the torque I'm looking for and the strain I'm gonna out on everything when I do pull those hills that the forged crank is gonna take it way better than a cast crank will.

What do y'all think.

Will

 

I think I would save $3000+ and just build a mild 400M, LOL

I'm not 100% convinced you need a completely forged assembly, but I have no practical experience w/Windsor strokers. If DDS and other suppliers say you do, then I'd follow their advice. One thing about it, if their all-forged kit won't handle it, nothing will.