came across this and was wondering if anyone was crazy enough to give it a try.
looks pretty cool actually but you would want to make certain you don't do it indoors.
http://1bad6t.com/rust_removal.html

 

That looks like it would work great for small parts.

Very cool.

 

Electrolysis is a long-standing, tried and true method for treating metal parts. There are other ways to remove rust obviously, but this is one option.

You just have to be sure you're using all the correct materials, etc and treating the right kinds of metal.

Do your research and give it a shot.....there's a ton of info on the web about how to do this correctly and safely. The article you have linked is a fairly good representation of a decent how-to article.

The author correctly states that you do not want to use stainless steel as your sacrificial anode as it produces a chromate precipitate that is fairly toxic.

You'll also need to be careful because the process splits water molecules into its component elements, and one of them (hydrogen gas) will ignite if it's concentrated enough. You can prevent this by preventing sparks and by ventilating the area where your setup is located.

 

Frankin part "ITS ALIVE"
but really, looks cool but I think I would be to scared to try it.
Knowing me I would step in the bucket lol

 

I love it. In fact, I'd be setting it up tonight if I had baking soda. I took a generator fan from my '53 and in about an hour it looked awesome. Check it out:






I've done other stuff...a master cylinder, iron carburetor throttle body and I even tried part of a frame rail. Next up is the flange ends of the axle shafts of the '66 I'm restoring.

 

I've used this method lots and it works great

 

I've been using it for many years on my old tractors as well as trucks. You are limited only by your imagination as to size of the piece you are working with. Example. I used a large fiberglass water softener tank for long skinny pieces, tractor hoods, etc. I use a hard plastic kiddy wading pool for large diameter tractor wheels. I have seen pictures of folks building a wooden frame and covering the inside with heavy, 8 mil plastic. With the last example, a hood or door could be stripped.
I've found a heavy detergent will strip paint as well as the rust.
Be prepaird to use something like Ospho or another rust converter as once the cleaned item is removed it will flash rust right now before your eyes.
Keep the battery charger clamps out of the solution.
Guys and girls, it works. Try it, you will not be disapointed.

 

Snake Oil!

A wire brush wheel or sandblaster will do the job much more efficiently and you will not be left with 10 gallons of hazardous material to dispose of.

 

for those afraid of elect.try molasses i forgot the mixture but molasses and water will remove rust. take a plastic container with a lid. put your rusty part in it, put the lid on and check it in a week or longer for heavy rust. take it out rince with water if its not done put it back in. i got a chest type freezer and did some model a wire wheels did a great job. like the elect. it will flash rust. just coat it with a rust converter.

 

Doesn't apple vinegar or something like that work too?

 

There are no hazardous materials to dispose of....you can dump this stuff on the lawn or anywhere for that matter (as long as it's not some type of plant that doesn't like iron-rich soils). In fact, you can use the left-over fluid as a fertilizer for your iron-loving (acidic soil) plants like rhododendrons, azaleas, hydrangeas, etc.

For instance, the common turf grass (Saint Augustine) here in the south likes a healthy supply of iron and you often see yellowish lawns because of iron deficiencies. Spreading out this left-over fluid on such a lawn is a good way to supplement the lawn's iron needs.

If you're concerned about making your soil too acidic when you dump out the left-over fluid you can mix in some potash (ashes from the fireplace) and raise the pH of the solution.

Just stay away from using stainless steel anodes and you'll be fine. Stainless steel contains the element Chromium (which gives it its stainless/rust resistant properties).

For parts with a lot of nooks and crannies, this is an excellent rust removal technique.

 

Anything acidic will react with rust (iron oxide), the more powerful the acid, the faster the result for the most part.

For instance, phosphoric acid will react with iron oxide to give you ferric phosphate.

Lemon juice has a pH of around 2 (it varies) and is therefore pretty acidic and will disolve rust.

The only problem I see for the novice using the random acid approach is that, depending on the type and concentration of acid you use to treat rust, you may end up with a sort-of "unknown" solution that does have some toxicity and may not be the best stuff to dump on the grass, etc. And it goes without saying that some concetrated acids are downright dangerous.

If you use the procedure explained in the link at the beginning of this thread (or one similar to it), you can be reasonably certain that you're ok.

(You'll have to pardon my passion about this particular topic...I am a chemist and have the quite nerdy quality of loving the study of chemical reactions.)

 

Since we're talking about acid, not sure I should mention it here, muratic acid, pool stuff, will remove rust in a heartbeat.........but it is dangerous, very dangerous. And if you don't get it neutralized quickly you can create more problems than you had with the original rust. And yes, I did try it on a casting many years ago and liked to never get it stabilized. The acid went into the pores of the casting I guess.
So far as someone's concerns about the electrolysis method safety. Common sense.

 

I use vinegar all the time, works great....only takes a couple days. Works really well on those rusty nuts and bolts. One note.....you should neutralize the acid on the parts when you remove them, also dry them so they don't flash rust.

 

Got me thinking now...

I have some rust inside my fuel tank....

...heads off to Walmart to buy a kiddy wading pool...