10.25" hub seal
#1
10.25" hub seal
I'm frustrated right now trying to pull a leaking hub seal out of my Sterling 10.25 without trashing the bearing.
I have broken the hook on my slide hammer, and welded it up and broken it again.
Bent a 3' Matco prybar.
Torched all the rubber lip off the seal.
It doesn't seem I can punch it out from the other side with the bearing in place.
I think it's too solid to collapse it in on itself.
Does anyone here have an easy out for me?
It's time for dinner and a cocktail...
Any and all ideas are welcome.
Thanks!
I have broken the hook on my slide hammer, and welded it up and broken it again.
Bent a 3' Matco prybar.
Torched all the rubber lip off the seal.
It doesn't seem I can punch it out from the other side with the bearing in place.
I think it's too solid to collapse it in on itself.
Does anyone here have an easy out for me?
It's time for dinner and a cocktail...
Any and all ideas are welcome.
Thanks!
#2
Did this job on my buddy's '97 250 HD a couple years ago, and it went pretty easy IIRC.
Just throwing it out there...any chance you could carefully cut a section of the seal out with a Dremel? I think a cutoff wheel would be too big unless it was REALLY worn down.
Sorry for the dearth of ideas...good luck!
Pat
Just throwing it out there...any chance you could carefully cut a section of the seal out with a Dremel? I think a cutoff wheel would be too big unless it was REALLY worn down.
Sorry for the dearth of ideas...good luck!
Pat
#3
#4
Bill, The inner race and bearing won't allow me to use a punch from the other side.
I REALLY took a rosebud torch to the hub and worked it out with the 3' prybar.
That smoking hot seal shot out and hit the 14' ceiling then bounced around.
Stupidly, I grabbed it...
Couldn't find a torque spec for the Sterling 10.25" full floater so I just cranked it down tight and backed off 1/4 turn.
Still seemed tight, but I assume this was the new seal. (I did pre-lube it with a bit of 90w)
Federal-Mogul brand was in stock locally so that's what I used.
I just finished and am ready for a test drive.
Hope this goes well.
I REALLY took a rosebud torch to the hub and worked it out with the 3' prybar.
That smoking hot seal shot out and hit the 14' ceiling then bounced around.
Stupidly, I grabbed it...
Couldn't find a torque spec for the Sterling 10.25" full floater so I just cranked it down tight and backed off 1/4 turn.
Still seemed tight, but I assume this was the new seal. (I did pre-lube it with a bit of 90w)
Federal-Mogul brand was in stock locally so that's what I used.
I just finished and am ready for a test drive.
Hope this goes well.
#5
Jim, from TSB 91-6-7:
"Caution: The specified torquing and backing of the hub nut is critical in order to perform the repair correctly."
"Note: Always turn the hub while tightening the hub nut. Once the specified torque 55-65 Lb.Ft., (75-88 N-m) is achieved, ratcheting back on the hub nut varies depending on whether the hub bearings are new or used. Back off 5 clicks for new bearing and 8 clicks for used bearings."
TSB 94-19-24 addresses a seal modification that was incorporated in the 94 model year and is serviced in a kit F4TZ-1177-C
"Caution: The specified torquing and backing of the hub nut is critical in order to perform the repair correctly."
"Note: Always turn the hub while tightening the hub nut. Once the specified torque 55-65 Lb.Ft., (75-88 N-m) is achieved, ratcheting back on the hub nut varies depending on whether the hub bearings are new or used. Back off 5 clicks for new bearing and 8 clicks for used bearings."
TSB 94-19-24 addresses a seal modification that was incorporated in the 94 model year and is serviced in a kit F4TZ-1177-C
#6
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