'95 F350 with rear ABS only.
Replaced front calipers with Cardone remans. Bled with buddy system until no bubbles, pedal is hard. Turn on truck and pedal becomes very soft eventually going to the floor. Removed front brake line from master cylinder and plugged the MC port and pedal becomes as hard as a rock with engine off or on so MC appears to be good indicating there is still some air trapped in the front hydrolics somewhere.
Anybody have any ideas on how I can get the air out of the system and get this pedal to harden up? I'm using ATE Super Blue brake fluid.
Thanks in advance for any help-

 

Welcome to FTE.

Did you just bleed the front? Start with the farthest one away from the master cylinder?

Air could have worked it's way into the rear lines through the proportioning valve. I'd bleed all four corners, starting with the farthest away and working your way to the closest.

Keep bleeding them, there's air in there somewhere.

 

I agree, you still have air in the system. With the new calipers fitted are the bleed screws at the top of the caliper (where they should be) or at the bottom?

 

Thanks for the input guys. The bleeders are at the top of the calipers.
I'll hit it again today. Maybe bribing my wife with dinner out tonight will keep her in the cab exercising her left leg.
I have a MityVac 8000 I think it is, but whenever I crack the bleeder it just sucks air from around the threads. The pedal pump method seems to push the most fluid.
Thanks again-

 

To use the vacuum bleeder you need to pump it up first-then open the bleeder.

 

i can only bleed 3 out of four because someone rounded the bleeder screw on the driver side rear....anyone know a trick to getting it out without removing everything...so I can put in a new one?

 

No not really. You can get it fairly close by bleeding it through the brake line itself but you'll still most likely have air in the caliper. It would be good enough if you need to go after parts or whatever but I wouldn't leave it that way.

 

Im gonna try to use an easy out to get the bleeder screw out....that way i can be sure of the air being out...thanx

 

you could also try a left handed drill bit if that dont work

 

Really...never heard of one...lol

 

small pipe wrench or chanell locks might work

 

Its hard to get in behind the backing plate with channel locks or even vise grips...hopefully the easy out will work because im not looking forward to the axle just to get the backing plate off to make it easier to remove the.bleeder.screw

 

Ok...now i feel stupid...all i had to do was un bolt the wheel cylinder and remove it...had to put it in the vise to get the bleeder out....ended up buying new cylinder....but that for the replies

 

if you still have problems after the wheel cylinder replacement, the abs valve is bad. common problem with the ford rabs systems.

 

Is that on the left frame rail below firewall?...should i try to bleed it or just get a new one