Removing Ignition Switch unit but no key
#17
drill
So thanks for all of the info. I have tried everything that has been suggested, even before I posted. The key will just not turn to the ACC position. Now after messing with it so much it doesn't turn to the start position easily anymore. So, I am going to drill it out. I have ordered all of the replacement parts. So, any suggestions on drilling? I saw that some posted to start with a 1/8" bit and not go deeper than 13/16". Do I drill directly at the hole for the paperclip or do I drill in the key slot center? Any pics of the process would be helpful too.
Thanks.
-Patrick
Thanks.
-Patrick
#18
If you have the replacement key assembly you will notice there's a concentric cam on the end of the key assembly that can only be installed in the ignition switch 1 way, when key is then rotated clockwise to the Acc position it locks the key and switch together. Need to drill out the key assembly to the depth and width that will remove the 'concentric cam'. U can drill thru center and may want to start small and progress to a drill bit slightly larger than cam and drill to depth that will remove the concentric cam; however, should not matter since replacing both???
When I installed a new key and switch; with the key, I rotated the key assembly as far as possible to the counterclockwise position, may need to unseat ball to accomplish; however, by looking into the switch assembly should notice key/cam needs to be in the position that corresponds to the concentric slot in the ignition switch housing. Once inserted rotate key clockwise to ACC.
When I installed a new key and switch; with the key, I rotated the key assembly as far as possible to the counterclockwise position, may need to unseat ball to accomplish; however, by looking into the switch assembly should notice key/cam needs to be in the position that corresponds to the concentric slot in the ignition switch housing. Once inserted rotate key clockwise to ACC.
#19
Since the post is old I'm Sure it's done already, but i bought a new lock and determined that at about 4o'clock is where the release cam is
drilled a 035" hole in the bezel and used a paper clip and flat blade to rotate the lock to remove without a key.
Doesn't destroy the lock but obviously adds a hole. Replacement lock sets are cheaper than a locksmith plus you get 2 keys and door locks
drilled a 035" hole in the bezel and used a paper clip and flat blade to rotate the lock to remove without a key.
Doesn't destroy the lock but obviously adds a hole. Replacement lock sets are cheaper than a locksmith plus you get 2 keys and door locks
#22
#24
Would appreciate an update when the project is completed. Only reason mentioned attacking the ignition switch is after 40 plus years, not sure how to confirm the door key would be the same as the ignition, use to be able to purchase separately?
#27
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