95 351W, Cam bolt breaking
#16
Since you have a big enough budget, and given your actual conditions, it's the best to swap that engine and have a shop do the work this time. If curiosity still gets the best out of you and you have the space and tools to do it (and some help, why not?), keep that engine, open it up and rebuild it whenever you feel like it, that could be a very nice little project.
Yes, if you have two hoses going into the airbox, you have a SD equipped vehicle.
I'm sad to hear about your shoulder problems, i have friends (young and old) with problems with their shoulders and i know they can be quite debilitating and constraining. I hope this next surgery goes well.
Yes, if you have two hoses going into the airbox, you have a SD equipped vehicle.
I'm sad to hear about your shoulder problems, i have friends (young and old) with problems with their shoulders and i know they can be quite debilitating and constraining. I hope this next surgery goes well.
I called around today and it looks like $1000 total and that's labor, gaskets, and fluids. From what I've read that sounds about right. I only have two engine options though it seems and they are ATK and Surefire. The mechanic said to stay far far away from Surefire but hadn't heard much good or bad about ATK. Has anyone had any experience with these engines? They have a 3 yr unlimited mile warranty and they say if it's a bad engine they also pay for labor to swap out a new one.
I did tell the mechanic what had happened and he says he's never seen that happen and is curious himself whats causing it and said he would give it a look before sending the core back so maybe I can report back on that later.
Thanks again for the advice help and support, you guys and gals are awesome!
#17
Update for anyone who is interested....
I purchased a re-manufactured engine from ATK. The cost was $2150 for a long block and the core charge was $450. After a lot of research, this was my best option, with the best warranty. (3 years, unlimited miles)
I'll post on the quality when I have a chance to get some time on the engine. I will say, customer service is top notch. Price was in the ballpark as average but the warranty was the best I could find. Due to my physical health, I cannot put the engine in myself so I'm paying $1000 to have it done. I could have paid less but they estimated 3 weeks for the installation and would not guarantee the work. So, I should have my truck back in 7 days with a guarantee by paying a few extra Bejimans.
For those interested with what caused the problem....
I was told the oil had a strange appearance and felt sticky. Also had a "sweet smell and taste". Don't ask me how they know it tasted sweet lol. This is a coincidence considering I was warned that an in-law had poured syrup of some kind in the engine oil. This was done supposedly in retaliation to a family fight with my wife which had nothing to do with me. Guilty by association I suppose. I've decided to take the high road on this, and let it go....for now.
Anyway...the cam lifters were ok, which was my suspect. However, at least one cam bearing had spun causing my problems. I've heard of main bearings spinning but never a cam bearing so it's a new one on me.
I have decided to keep the old engine instead of claiming the core deposit. If anyone thinks this isn't a good idea, please by all means, let me know soon. I'm thinking with the old engine I can build it how I want and have it ready to drop in whenever I have the time, health, and money. So, if a spun cam bearing does too much damage to rebuild, please let me know.
The new engine is being installed this coming week, and the mechanic has all of the parts needed to put the 6 litre tune-up on, and has details as to what this involves. He was knowledgeable about the procedure anyway so it shouldn't be a problem.
Headers and exhaust will come soon after I get it back and break it in as well as an electric fan conversion.
Questions for the experts....
Should I delete the cat? Replace with hi-flow? (no emissions testing as of present date)
Air pump delete? Is it worth it?
A/C delete. The compressor needs replaced, but the only time I ever used the A/C was on long trips. We have purchased a vehicle for the long trips and personally, I don't don't care much for A/C. Is it worth the gain if any? The compressor on it now seems to have a lot of resistance even when A/C is off.
So, if anyone was interested in what exactly happened, now you know. And any suggestions on my questions is as always, greatly appreciated.
I'd though about a mild lift, but since i actually work the truck I'm only going to level the front end and replace the 285s currently on the truck with a set of 255-85s I got a good deal on.
I'll post again, with pictures when the installation is complete and I can properly report on the engine quality.
I purchased a re-manufactured engine from ATK. The cost was $2150 for a long block and the core charge was $450. After a lot of research, this was my best option, with the best warranty. (3 years, unlimited miles)
I'll post on the quality when I have a chance to get some time on the engine. I will say, customer service is top notch. Price was in the ballpark as average but the warranty was the best I could find. Due to my physical health, I cannot put the engine in myself so I'm paying $1000 to have it done. I could have paid less but they estimated 3 weeks for the installation and would not guarantee the work. So, I should have my truck back in 7 days with a guarantee by paying a few extra Bejimans.
For those interested with what caused the problem....
I was told the oil had a strange appearance and felt sticky. Also had a "sweet smell and taste". Don't ask me how they know it tasted sweet lol. This is a coincidence considering I was warned that an in-law had poured syrup of some kind in the engine oil. This was done supposedly in retaliation to a family fight with my wife which had nothing to do with me. Guilty by association I suppose. I've decided to take the high road on this, and let it go....for now.
Anyway...the cam lifters were ok, which was my suspect. However, at least one cam bearing had spun causing my problems. I've heard of main bearings spinning but never a cam bearing so it's a new one on me.
I have decided to keep the old engine instead of claiming the core deposit. If anyone thinks this isn't a good idea, please by all means, let me know soon. I'm thinking with the old engine I can build it how I want and have it ready to drop in whenever I have the time, health, and money. So, if a spun cam bearing does too much damage to rebuild, please let me know.
The new engine is being installed this coming week, and the mechanic has all of the parts needed to put the 6 litre tune-up on, and has details as to what this involves. He was knowledgeable about the procedure anyway so it shouldn't be a problem.
Headers and exhaust will come soon after I get it back and break it in as well as an electric fan conversion.
Questions for the experts....
Should I delete the cat? Replace with hi-flow? (no emissions testing as of present date)
Air pump delete? Is it worth it?
A/C delete. The compressor needs replaced, but the only time I ever used the A/C was on long trips. We have purchased a vehicle for the long trips and personally, I don't don't care much for A/C. Is it worth the gain if any? The compressor on it now seems to have a lot of resistance even when A/C is off.
So, if anyone was interested in what exactly happened, now you know. And any suggestions on my questions is as always, greatly appreciated.
I'd though about a mild lift, but since i actually work the truck I'm only going to level the front end and replace the 285s currently on the truck with a set of 255-85s I got a good deal on.
I'll post again, with pictures when the installation is complete and I can properly report on the engine quality.
#18
#19
Thanks again.
#20
I'd say there might be some wiped out cam bearings. Weather they are stuck on the cam journal, and essentially binding up in the block when its warm,, or a lifter might be sticking in the block. idk. Its a guess on my part.
I'd say its not a valve or rocker arm tho, because if thoes stick it would just bend a push rod.
I'd say its not a valve or rocker arm tho, because if thoes stick it would just bend a push rod.
So any experienced opinions on the cat delete? Punch out the old one? Or is it really not that restrictive? Thanks again!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bigbadbob17
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
20
01-01-2015 10:23 PM
w74bronco
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
10
01-22-2014 07:59 PM
76 F-150 390FE
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
8
03-02-2011 02:55 PM