I'm looking for a reliable torque wrench to correctly rotate my own tires. What does everyone recommend for brand names to go with? Is there anything else to know because I'm a noob and this will be my first one?

 

Craftsman is good, my Harbor Freight ones does fine though. Don't loosen the lugnuts with it even though it is a nice long handle, and make sure to loosen the adjustment all the way after every use. If you don't, it'll take a set and click at a much lower torque than indicated.

 

One more question should I go with an click type or electronic torque wrench?

 

Most accurate wrench is the bending beam. It never needs calibrating. Also works either direction. Only thing about it is it's hard to read at higher torque readings because you are probably under some sort of contorted stress and trying to see the dial can be tough. It is also the cheapest of the lot.

 

Click type works well. I'm not sure I trust the electronic ones just yet.

 

If all you are going to use it for is lug nuts anything more than a beam style is a waste of money. As far as electric, I sold mine. Just another thing with batteries to be dead when you need it.

 

I use craftsman click type. Never looked at electronic ones, but then like mentioned above, I also dont want to have to keep replacing batteries or remembering to remove them when not using the wrench for a while. Just have to remember to treat them with respect and dont bang them around like normal ratchets. I also never use them to loosen bolts/nuts either.

 

I will add that if you get a clicker style wrench, there are two kinds. The one that you turn the handle to adjust(must be returned to zero when finished) or the one(better) that has a small dial to set and can be stored at any setting.

 

I personally am a firm believer in either a beam type or a dial indicating torque wrench because bolts and nuts can slip when they are at the set torque. (That's called "BOLT CREEP")

Either tool is purely mechanical, but a beam type is rugged and nearly bullet proof unless abused. What Chaosracing said is very true: IT'S NOT A BREAKER BAR!!! Use it only as a precision tool for final assembly. Store it carefully as well; a beam type with a bent needle should be junked, never second guess a damaged one.

Click type TQ's are good for instantanious torque, where you want to be absolutely exact, or for assembly line use - but on aluminum heads especially, when the bolts are not brand new, I never trust momentary torque. They are worth their weight in GOLD when you are installing intake manifolds...

I also found that when torqueing rims on dually hubs you can go around and around the bolt pattern several times before all of the lugs pull evenly and take their final SET.

A beam wrench when doing that can save a huge amount of time.

A tip on the studs or bolts themselves is to clean them well before torqueing them together, and on lugs I highly reccommend using ANTI-SIEZE compound (available at any auto parts supplier) to both lubricate the threads and guard against rust or corrosion later on. A/S Compound can be put on the threads and also on the rubbing surfaces of the hardware - such as the cone area of acorn type nuts.

While you might think it would make them loosen up, in practice I have never seen that happen. What it WILL do is ensure that you get the torque on the fasteners that you think you are, and prevent stuck or stripped nuts and bolts later on.

One last note: On dually rear hubs it is best to have the wheels jacked up off the ground when running the torque pattern (every other lug) so that the rims do not have stress on them from their contact with the pavement. Put the machine in park to keep them from rotating, or in low gear with the engine off. Setting the parking brake is NOT reccommended because it can hold the brake drum in the wrong position (IE: It won't be flush against the axle end) depending on the rear-end design.

You only need one side up at a time.

Re-check the torque after driving it around the block.

The obvious safety stuff applies: Wheel chocks, level surface, safety stands (jack stands) etc...

 

I disagree on the antisieze for lugs. I know someone that did out it on their freghtliner tractor, then when he went to take off the wheel later on, (after winter driving) he almost had to burn them off and replace the studs and lugs. We found out later that the anti sieze and either the road salt or calcium hyochloride they put on the roads reacted with each other. Basically it turned the antisieze into glue. My mechanic that does my inspections also does not put anti sieze on wheel studs cause he said he has had issues as well.

 

The thing with anti-seize, or other lubricants (oil) is that they reduce the friction on the bolt/stud. I have seen in many places that the torque figures for lug nuts are dry torques, and lubricated torques are less.
I always use anti-seize, but I reduce the final torque to compensate for that. Otherwise you can end up over tightening and warp the rotors, or not be able to get them off afterwards.

Also I highly doubt road salt will turn anti-seize to glue. Most anti-seize compounds are a blend of petroleum derivatives with either nickel or copper particles. My guess is that they didn't take the anti-seize into account and over-tightened, or rode the impact until they were super tightened.

I've put anti seize on damn near everything I have to take apart on my truck. The only time I don't use it is when lock-tite is called for. So far I've never had anything loosen up, and never had anything break when taking it part afterwards.

 

Can you tell me which one this actually is?


Is this the type- Craftsman
Or is there a better rated one?

Also I'm going to need it for suspension work and the such.

 

What about torque sticks anyone every use one. Would this be a better option for rotating tires?
10 Piece 1/2" Torque Limiting Extension Bar Set

 

No, those are good for getting close before using the torque wrench. They are not accurate.

 

I'm in the market for a new torque wrench and read some of the threads after doing a search and thought I'd add my ?'s to this one. I currently have a Craftsman click type 3/8" drive that hasn't worked in many years. It may be 35 years old but that's not necessarily a testament to it's quality as it never saw much use and has probably been broken for a very long time. Just never had a reason to use it until now. I'd be using for restoration work and not sure of a brand or what size I might need. Home Depot had the 3/8" for $75 and a 1/2" for $79. The cost is basically the same so I'm not sure what to get. The last time I thought I made the decision on cost and went with the 3/8. Not sure I'll get it at HD but they had those 2 choices. The Lowes I went to did not have any. I'm sure Sears still has something similar to what I bought the first time. I don't want to buy another one anytime soon so I don't want to go ultra cheap but also don't want to spend more than I have to. What others I should consider and what are your thoughts on the appropriate size?

Thanks