1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Replace Rear Springs or not?

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  #16  
Old 11-29-2010, 11:30 PM
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What is the length of the Explorer spring? Many newer vehicle springs are longer than the originals, and there's not enough frame rail for them to attach to. Just something to look for.
 
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Old 11-30-2010, 01:52 AM
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I guess it all depends on your intended use for the truck, however i agree that with the M11 front suspension the rear will feel even harsher and sit TALL. NOT A GOOD LOOK.
If it were mine, i think i would be looking at a four bar with coilovers. Not difficult to fit and many, many different rods and modified trucks have run them for decades with proven, positive results.

John
 
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Old 11-30-2010, 07:36 AM
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Thanks Wayne & John for the feedback -
Kind of confirms what I thought that the Mustang II
effectively lowers the front end & leaves the back poking up.
I'll look into the 4 bar suspension for the rear though I may drive it a
while first & see how it feels - I will use it for light hauling & making Home Depot runs
& such. Should be an easier existence than in its prior life.

I did not intentionally try to lower the front - it has coilovers & springs to support
the 351W. It's been in pieces so it's hard to tell at the moment. Is there a brand of
4 Bar suspension that's recommended?

Ben D in Austin
 
  #19  
Old 11-30-2010, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by fixnair
To remove the pins easily try this. It worked well for me. Remove the Zerk fitting. The zerk is 1/8" NPT. Pretty close to 5/16'fine thread. Now get a 3/4"X 3"pipe nipple, a 5/16NF bolt long enough to protrude through the nipple and thread into the pin. Before inserting the bolt through the nipple, thread a nut and washer onto the bolt all the way up to allow you to insert the threaded bolt into your pin. Now run the nut and washer down to the pipe nipple and using a wrench, tighten the nut to extract the pin into the pipe nipple. I have a picture of an extractor for the spring bushing showing the priciple. You can alter it so suit use on your pins.
Thats a great idea, I have used similar setups to remove die pins in blind holes for years. Don't know why I didn't think of that when I removed my shackle pins! Would have saved a lot of time and energy.
 
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:47 AM
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If you want to improve the ride replace the rear springs and hangers with something more modern. I have used two sets of non-stock rear springs with great success in my trucks. In my 48 I used the rear springs from my 87 Chrysler 5th avenue front suspension donor car and in my 49 I used a set from an early 90s Dodge D-50 pickup that I picked up at a salvage yard for $70. The Chrysler springs are common 6 leaf springs and have a very soft ride. They are a little longer than the stock springs but fit with a little fabrication. I like the Dodge truck springs best although I have not yet driven it on the road. They are three leaf progressive springs. The trucks basically rides on two leaves and the third one comes into play with loads. You get a soft ride plus load carrying capacity if you need it. In both trucks I mounted the rear end on top of the springs and the springs and hangers to the side of the frame rails and in neither truck did I have to C-notch the frame. I still have over three inches of travel in the rear suspension. If you find some D-50 springs in a salvage yard be sure to tell them you need the hangers and shackles or they will cut them with a torch. Both sets of springs dropped the rear about 4-5 inches.
 
  #21  
Old 12-01-2010, 10:54 AM
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Thanks Vern,
I wasn't real sure what to look for back there. All I see are a bunch
of rusted 60 year old leaf springs that look very tired. I think we were headed toward
the Ford Explorer springs but for no other reason than they were there - I like the idea of using truck springs. I'll see if I can persuade the guys to look this direction - I appreciate it.

Ben in Austin
 
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