Alright guys, as I am posting this I am also going to be searching through the numerous threads but I would appreciate any help in the meantime.

So here goes, tested the FICM as per the standard procedure:

Key on : 47.5-47.7 Volts
Key on buzz test: 47-47.7 Volts
Cranking: 47 + Volts

( I had an assistant handle reading the Voltmeter as he does not know my truck but knows his way around a voltmeter)

When the engine started, the voltage dropped to 33 Volts. It slowly began climbing and before I shut the truck off it was up to 41.2 Volts, over a period of 5 minutes give or take a little.

Is this normal?

Reason I am checking the FICM is because I had to put a new alternator on a few weeks ago and my old predator tuner (used for less than a year after I read about their crap programming) started working again, so I looked for any DTCs and it came up with a bunch the first time, but I being the idiot I am I deleted them all, hoping they wouldn't come back

However, I do have a new list of codes which include all cylinders injection circuit low DTCs and the dreaded P0611. My batteries are original and I am going to replace them this weekend, but using a handheld loadtester they check out.

So what is up with my readings?

Any help is as always appreciated.

 

The TECH FOLDER is the best friend you have.... look here to start.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html

 

Thanks, but that is the page I used to do the procedure.....I was wondering if anyone knew why while running the voltage dropped down to 33 volts and climbed up to 41.2 before I shut the engine off.


I understand there are 4 "banks" that supply the 48VDC from the 12VDC electrical system. What I do not understand is if all my other readings are within limits, why do I get an inital 33 volts as soon as the engine runs and then slowly but surely keeps increasing?

I know there are capacitors, you can see the discharge from them when the engine is turned off, but I do not understand the 13-14 VDC drop I get at initial startup.

That is indeed what is driving me crazy.

 

Did you read ALL THE STUFF in the Tech Folder about HOW to repair that low voltage problem you have? It is a detailed procedure on how to fix it!

 

Yes, I have, since I have already soldered a FICM on my father's E-350. But his voltage readings were obvious, mine.....well not so much unless I missed the part where it said if you have greater than 45 volts while cranking but as soon as the engine starts you have a 15 volt drop and then gradually it goes back up in a short period of time there is no problem.

I am trying to understand the problem and make sense of it. Maybe I missed something or did not read it correctly.... I guess I should just tear into the FICM and go about my merry way.

Thank you very much for all your helpful guidance.

 

OOPS....excuse ME! I failed to notice that your voltage was right where it's supposed to be~!!!!! The old eyesight isn't what it used to be! Yeah, you sure have to wait until the glow plugs shut off before you can look at ANY voltages after a start...or key on test! Sorry!

 

I'm no electrical engineer, but I do know that with the codes you posted your FICM is toast for whatever reason. It may or may not be repairable but it's worth a try, especially if you've already done one successfully. It's possible that you have a "weak" solder joint OR a faulty capacitor or transformer (whatever raises the voltage to 48V). Have you seen the upgrade procedure that details raising the FICM to 58V? It's possible it might shed some light on your problem or at least point you in the right direction.

 

ficm is toast.
tim have you modded yours to 58v yet?

 

Sooooooo great news, thanks guys! haha But anyways I guess it is toast, I was holding out a little hope. I guess I will try soldering it and see if that will work, but then again I doubt it since it is acting in such a peculiar manner. But I will keep everyone updated.

I will have to take a look at this 58 volt mod though and see if I feel comfortable doing it, then again if my board is that fried I don't know if it's wise to drop anymore money into it unless it is professionally done.


Oh, if someone can point me in the direction of the 58 V mod that would be great, I am actively searching for it now.

Also, did I mention that the truck seems to run fine? Little rough on startup on 25-30 degree mornings for the first few seconds with just a hint or smoke but nothing major. No surging or misses or anything, this is just dam annoying. Oh, and if anyone knows of a FICM for sale for a good price (in good shape of course), please let me know, I better buy it sooner rather than later.

 

Well luckily, looking around, I just realized Innovative Diesel is just a short ride across the Mason Dixon line from me so I will be giving them a call and probably just swapping out this one for one of theirs, if they offer that service. I hope they do haha. Payday won't come soon enough.

 

does payday ever come soon enugh?

 

True, very True. Now what to do in the meantime, I think I'll solder the POS as something to keep me busy and maybe see something amazing therefore allowing me to save money and buy a FICM in the near future rather than go for broke now.

The way it is acting though is way odd to me, it passes all the test, yet it is only screwed up when the truck is running in the beginning. Just has me scratching my head.

I just want to be clear, while doing the test the voltage never droped below 47. It only dropped below 47 once the engine literally fired, and dropped to 33VDC, and then kept climbing until I shut it off and it hit 41.2 in 5 minutes or less.

I understand I may have a bad solder joint, Capacitor , transformer or something, but why would I have "good" voltage on all the test? That is what has me scratching my head. I am one of those people that like to know the Y, and not just replace parts, especially expensive ones. SO yeah, I even annoy myself with stupid nagging questions that I know will probably never be answered haha.

 

ots really not that odd at all. see it all the time. wanna have some fun run the truck up to 2k rpm and watch votage for a min or two. that may surprise you even more.
I have one now that will stay running at 20v. that suprised me. thats the lowist I have seen one still work.

 

Just for turds and giggles, can I do that in my driveway with a regular voltmeter, or does the engine have to be under a load (moving) cheezit? Hell, I need somethin to do the rest of the week haha.

 

nope running in the driveway no load. and yes with a dvom