tire adjustment '59 f- 250
#1
tire adjustment '59 f- 250
Im in need of some insight of how the steering works
my problem ..
if i stand in front of my truck lookin at the two front tires
if the right tire is straight with the truck
the left tire is going bit left
when i drive the truck wants to go right
and i can hear a squeak sometimes like the tire is hopping on the pavement.
i dont dare drive it over 20
i just got it running and the brakes are fixed
one more dinosaur on the road!
if i loosen the clamp on the connecting rod tube and twist one of the ends
would this be a way to line up a tire with the other?
if this is the fix i think i need to remove the cotter pin, stud nut, etc to spin the rod.
im using the repair manual as reference
Kurt-
my problem ..
if i stand in front of my truck lookin at the two front tires
if the right tire is straight with the truck
the left tire is going bit left
when i drive the truck wants to go right
and i can hear a squeak sometimes like the tire is hopping on the pavement.
i dont dare drive it over 20
i just got it running and the brakes are fixed
one more dinosaur on the road!
if i loosen the clamp on the connecting rod tube and twist one of the ends
would this be a way to line up a tire with the other?
if this is the fix i think i need to remove the cotter pin, stud nut, etc to spin the rod.
im using the repair manual as reference
Kurt-
#2
You've got the right idea, but you shouldn't have to remove a tie-rod end to do it. Not sure what your 59 is like, but if each end of the tie-rod has a sleeve (maybe 6" long) with a clamp on both ends, you loosen both clamps and turn it to lengthen or shorten as needed.
If your tie-rod is a hollow tube with only one clamp on each end, you'll need to loosen both sides and turn accordingly.
One thread is right hand and the other is left hand. That's why you don't need to take the tie-rod end off the spindle to adjust it.
I'd rather recommend you drive it to the nearest alignment shop at 20 mph. You'll need to do that eventually so you might as well get it out of the way.
If your tie-rod is a hollow tube with only one clamp on each end, you'll need to loosen both sides and turn accordingly.
One thread is right hand and the other is left hand. That's why you don't need to take the tie-rod end off the spindle to adjust it.
I'd rather recommend you drive it to the nearest alignment shop at 20 mph. You'll need to do that eventually so you might as well get it out of the way.
#3
I appreciate the advice, i dont have one mechanic that can do all.
i know of a place that will do such work. but im afraid theyll say the same as 80% as the other mechanics example (my wifes car): " hmm ur leaking fluid im sure its the water pump i can start this now for you and have it done by the end of the day. I can do it for 850$. I can work with you on the money ill do it for 750."
such a joke these chain repair shops .. luckily i only went in for a smog!
ill first try this myself. What do i go to loose if it doesnt work ill limp to the shop.
if it slightly improves the problem, than maybe im on the right track and i can have them fine tune what i started.. ive noticed a long time ago its best to go into the shop and tell them what you want done than going in there with a question mark.
hopefully this is the problem
i know of a place that will do such work. but im afraid theyll say the same as 80% as the other mechanics example (my wifes car): " hmm ur leaking fluid im sure its the water pump i can start this now for you and have it done by the end of the day. I can do it for 850$. I can work with you on the money ill do it for 750."
such a joke these chain repair shops .. luckily i only went in for a smog!
ill first try this myself. What do i go to loose if it doesnt work ill limp to the shop.
if it slightly improves the problem, than maybe im on the right track and i can have them fine tune what i started.. ive noticed a long time ago its best to go into the shop and tell them what you want done than going in there with a question mark.
hopefully this is the problem
#4
I agree completely. I tell them if they find worn components, they need to give me a list and I'll fix them and come back for the alignment when I'm done. It's a waste of money to align before all the components are in spec.
What I described will get you close. I don't have the manual for your truck but in general the front of the tires should be about 1/8" closer together than the back measurement. In other words just slightly pigeon-toed.
What I described will get you close. I don't have the manual for your truck but in general the front of the tires should be about 1/8" closer together than the back measurement. In other words just slightly pigeon-toed.
#5
You really have to be in control of these guys when you take the trucks in or they walk all over you. I know the new trucks have so much stuff on them we can't imagine the level of effort it's going to take. so we're kind of stuck there.
But in the old trucks, it's all simple metal mechanics.
Yo can do the "toe-in" your self if you can measure accurately. Otherwise, you can take it in to an alignment shop, they will charge you $100 to check the alignment, and tell you what's wrong with it.
Adjusting the Toe in for them takes about 10 minutes at the most - yo just loosen the two clamps and twist the tie rod VERY slightly to adjust it while the lasers are still on it.
So tell them you want it adjusted to "3/32 toe in" if the tie rod ends are ok. Tell them you expect it to take less than an hour and not to exceed one additional hours labor for the adjustment IF THEY WILL NOT INCLUDE IT IN THE BASIC INITIAL CHARGE.
If the tie rod ends need to be replaced, drive it home and get on the horn to us here and we will walk you through that - it is SUPER easy.
But in the old trucks, it's all simple metal mechanics.
Yo can do the "toe-in" your self if you can measure accurately. Otherwise, you can take it in to an alignment shop, they will charge you $100 to check the alignment, and tell you what's wrong with it.
Adjusting the Toe in for them takes about 10 minutes at the most - yo just loosen the two clamps and twist the tie rod VERY slightly to adjust it while the lasers are still on it.
So tell them you want it adjusted to "3/32 toe in" if the tie rod ends are ok. Tell them you expect it to take less than an hour and not to exceed one additional hours labor for the adjustment IF THEY WILL NOT INCLUDE IT IN THE BASIC INITIAL CHARGE.
If the tie rod ends need to be replaced, drive it home and get on the horn to us here and we will walk you through that - it is SUPER easy.
#6
I don't know your money situation and don't want you to drive something that is totally unsafe on the road. But, having said that, I would try adjusting the tow in myself. If you get it close to the 1/8-3/32 you will probably eliminate the "tire hopping". I would also jack up the front end in the axle and check for loose tie rod ends etc. to make sure one isn't likely to fall off.
Then I'd drive it to see if the 20 mph problem is still there. If it is, then you probably have other problems. Also, with a stock front axle, you will want a alignment place that is familiar with straight axles.
Then I'd drive it to see if the 20 mph problem is still there. If it is, then you probably have other problems. Also, with a stock front axle, you will want a alignment place that is familiar with straight axles.
#7
i went to adjust the tie rod and holy cow it was bent for some reason i didnt notice it before. ive looked in the sales books and i dont see any with bend.
theres also a right angle running the full length of the rod welded on.. up to the point of the bend. maybe they used it to turn it.
does one use a pipe wrench to turn one other wise i hate to scratch mine all up
my truck is not the most beautiful thing to look at but its paid for and i can throw stuff in the back like any other truck(not having to worry about the paint job. but i would hate scratch it up more than necessary.
ive got a new rod on order.
-Kurt
theres also a right angle running the full length of the rod welded on.. up to the point of the bend. maybe they used it to turn it.
does one use a pipe wrench to turn one other wise i hate to scratch mine all up
my truck is not the most beautiful thing to look at but its paid for and i can throw stuff in the back like any other truck(not having to worry about the paint job. but i would hate scratch it up more than necessary.
ive got a new rod on order.
-Kurt
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#8
Join Date: May 2010
Location: south east South Dakota
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my guess is that it has the angle iron welded on it because it was bent before, then straigtened and reinforced with the iron. if you got the new rod ordered you should go ahead and put the new ends on to. then its all new and you just have to set the toe like stated earlier. and the wheel hop might just be from a wasted shock and a bad road. reading these stories about east and west coast repair shops make me glad i live in fly-over country. good luck with it.
#9
Shimmy at 20 - 30 mph is a classic tie-rod end sympton.
Note also that the specs for our trucks are for old bias ply tires, which most people don't run. Bias ply tires need more toe-in than radials. You can play with the toe-in, the less the better but you want SOME toe-in. If you have toe-out (which it sounds like you do), it will really eat up tires.
Note also that the specs for our trucks are for old bias ply tires, which most people don't run. Bias ply tires need more toe-in than radials. You can play with the toe-in, the less the better but you want SOME toe-in. If you have toe-out (which it sounds like you do), it will really eat up tires.
#10
#11
Shimmy at 20 - 30 mph is a classic tie-rod end sympton.
Note also that the specs for our trucks are for old bias ply tires, which most people don't run. Bias ply tires need more toe-in than radials. You can play with the toe-in, the less the better but you want SOME toe-in. If you have toe-out (which it sounds like you do), it will really eat up tires.
Note also that the specs for our trucks are for old bias ply tires, which most people don't run. Bias ply tires need more toe-in than radials. You can play with the toe-in, the less the better but you want SOME toe-in. If you have toe-out (which it sounds like you do), it will really eat up tires.
the two front tires are not matching with the left and right angle.
if you set one tire straight with the truck you can see the other going off.
the rod is on order. ill try that out.
i wish the "pick ur part" was networked at the very least with a list of cars on inventory.
im sure i could get this for under 20$ if i can find the car