Here is what is needed to put a gauge together thanks to Swamps site.

If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.

...sorry, I had to search my old thread for this...I took this to my local Hydraulic shop and He fixed me up...

 

is a place called texas used auto parts. its in a dinky little town called San Carlos way down in south texas. he's letting me barrow the parts and pay later cuz i met him trough one of his previous employees and he gives me the same privileges as him. good guy, its all he works with is diesels. he mainly does complete engine swaps.

 

Well I went and picked my truck up from the electric shop and rechecked the hpop oil level and it is empty, and the dipstick shows over full. Did the oil drain into the oil pan cuz of all the cranking and no start?

 

I noticed the same on my "No Start" so I would say...Yes.

 

well i fill the dang oil reservoir and the hooked the modis scanner back on it and started cranking the heck out of it and.......... the freaken truck started!!! why the heck did it drain? i have noticed the starting is requiring more cranking now. before she would fire right up but now shes a little slower to start. now i just need to fix the draining problem that i think that has to do with my oil cooler.

 

So, the newer PCM and servicing the HPOP and she fired...

 

Yup. That was all. I had checked the oil level on the hpop before and it did have some but I guess it wasn't enough, and today I check again and it was dry and after filling it she started up. What a miserable past few day with it. I'll be checking it regularly for a little while to see if it keeps draining.

 

Injector O rings are usually the culprit ..Long crank (no start times)

LPOP cant keep up is another , the HPOP check valve , low oil level in the C case ...as well

 

Thanks for all the help fellas. Couldn't have done it without y'all

 

Glad She's working...

 

hey fellas i have a question about my used pcm i installed on my truck... it seems to have some type of tuning on it or so it feels like it when driving the truck. is it possible that the donor truck might have been tuned with like a superchips or programer like that and that the pcm still has it programed. i suspect cuz my truck does not feel like it used to when i had it in the stock tune. also i tried to program it with a hypertech tuner i have and it would not accept the tuning. i would like to figure this out cuz i want to chip this pcm again but with tw tunes.

 

When you stick a tw chip on it, the chip will overwrite whatever programming is on there so you don't have to worry about it.