95 F250 Won't Start/Electrical Storm!
#138
Here is what is needed to put a gauge together thanks to Swamps site.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
#139
#141
Test Gauge Installed - HPOP Dead Head _ No Pressure
Ok, had the gauge set-up made, 0-5000 PSI. liquid filled was the only gauge available, Plugged the Driver side out coming from the HPOP and installed gauge on the passenger output side of the HPOP. Cranked her and the gauge didn't show any movement. That said, the LACK of movement might be from the lower limits of the gauge, cause the first hash mark, best I can figure is 125 psi. Scanner data from past tries, showed 162 PSI...
So, my thoughts after reviewing what a IPR does, ( Basically a pressure dump valve) is it's not closing to build pressure and empting the HPOP res.? Is that why my HPOP res. is down when I do a visual check?
Thoughts...
So, my thoughts after reviewing what a IPR does, ( Basically a pressure dump valve) is it's not closing to build pressure and empting the HPOP res.? Is that why my HPOP res. is down when I do a visual check?
Thoughts...
#142
Ok, had the gauge set-up made, 0-5000 PSI. liquid filled was the only gauge available, Plugged the Driver side out coming from the HPOP and installed gauge on the passenger output side of the HPOP. Cranked her and the gauge didn't show any movement. That said, the LACK of movement might be from the lower limits of the gauge, cause the first hash mark, best I can figure is 125 psi. Scanner data from past tries, showed 162 PSI...
So, my thoughts after reviewing what a IPR does, ( Basically a pressure dump valve) is it's not closing to build pressure and empting the HPOP res.? Is that why my HPOP res. is down when I do a visual check?
Thoughts...
So, my thoughts after reviewing what a IPR does, ( Basically a pressure dump valve) is it's not closing to build pressure and empting the HPOP res.? Is that why my HPOP res. is down when I do a visual check?
Thoughts...
#145
The Saga continues...
I hate throwing parts at it, and waiting to see if it sticks...
Reviewing the IPR, I removed and tore it down - as far as I could go - I could hear the Armature ( electrical side) rattle when shaken, but could not tell if any parts were "rattling" in the Edge Filter side....not sure if they even will on a workable/new IPR.
But with that tiny mechanism and a spring and intense pressures, you would think it is an IPR thats stuck...
Last edited by mq1shooter; 10-02-2010 at 12:08 PM. Reason: Addition thoughts
#147
Just Can't believe that 1) PCM failed and 2) IPR failed all at the same time? What are the odd's?
...also OEM CPS, new...
#148
I know , following the storm , PCM IDM I would believe..Not mechanical stuff...
#149
New IPR installed - still no Pressure above 100psi
Installed a new IPR, and at the try, I either must have not noticed the slight movement of the pressure gauge, at the last IPR try. With new IPR, same results, PSI needle just came off the 0 stop... Guestimated 100 psi +/-.....so again no pressure build. Res. was serviced prior to this last attempt.
Wow...need to think out side the box on this one. Check, Double check, triple check, what am I missing!
Wow...need to think out side the box on this one. Check, Double check, triple check, what am I missing!