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1997 Explorer Washer Fluid not working

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Old 10-16-2010, 02:49 PM
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1997 Explorer Washer Fluid not working

Hi there
I have a 1997 Ford Explorer and my washer fluid is not working on front or rear. I feel that it could be a bad pump as I normally would hear the pump working and now when I push the switch it makes no sound. Is this easy to replace? I looked at the fuses and looks to be okay. Though the manual did not list any specific fuse for Washer Fluid. I just checked any that had to do with wipers. Not much of a mechanic and hoping this could be an easy fix with some of your expert help. Thanks much.
 
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:32 PM
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Ours is a 98 mountaineer. It sometime does not work. Try to move the signal level while trying to operate the washer.

that is what we do and it works. Leads me to beleive I will eventually have to tear into the steering column and replace the switch there.
 
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Old 10-18-2010, 07:26 PM
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The switch contacts for the wiper are part of the turn signal lever itself, not a switch in the steering column. You could try to pop the cover off (I use a razor knife to minimize misshaping the plastic). You'll then see a Philips head screw. Carefully loosen the screw while holding the rotating piece in place. Once the screw is removed, slowly slide the rotating piece off the stalk, making sure to catch the spring that may fall. Once you have the piece off, you can clean the contacts and reapply some switch lubricant, dielectric compound, or Vicks Vaporub (old trick from the days of mechanical speed controllers). Carefully reassemble everything and you should find that the wipers work well and maybe they won't even always make a pass as soon as you adjust the wiper delay.

-Rod
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by shorod
The switch contacts for the wiper are part of the turn signal lever itself, not a switch in the steering column. You could try to pop the cover off (I use a razor knife to minimize misshaping the plastic). You'll then see a Philips head screw. Carefully loosen the screw while holding the rotating piece in place. Once the screw is removed, slowly slide the rotating piece off the stalk, making sure to catch the spring that may fall. Once you have the piece off, you can clean the contacts and reapply some switch lubricant, dielectric compound, or Vicks Vaporub (old trick from the days of mechanical speed controllers). Carefully reassemble everything and you should find that the wipers work well and maybe they won't even always make a pass as soon as you adjust the wiper delay.

-Rod
I have a '97 Explorer and have had this same problem for years. Good info - Thanx!
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 02:05 PM
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Thanks for the info folks.
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 03:38 PM
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Odds are good that shorod is right & the switch is bad.

If you want to play around with it look in the relay box under the hood. With the key on/engine off have someone operate the switch.

If the washer relay clicks check the washer pump fuse. It's a 10 amp interior fuse number 12.

If it's not blown give the pump motor a tap with a wrench. Does it work now?

If the relay does NOT click check for a bad switch.
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 04:01 PM
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OOPS, my bad, interior fuse 12 is wired to the switched AND coil side of the pump relay.

If the fuse is blown the relay cant operate.

Check the fuse, if it's OK the switch is probably the problem
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 05:11 PM
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Just found the location of the pump relay box. It's under the hood near the passenger side head light.

In a nutshell. Turn the key on & operate the washer switch. If the relay clicks the circuit is working correctly. Give the washer pump a whack. Does it work now?

If the relay does not click check interior fuse 12. If the fuse is OK the switch is probably bad.
 
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Old 10-23-2010, 11:32 AM
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Could be a bad pump too. I've had to replace mine in the past. It was real easy to do and inexpensive. They are available at most part stores. You simply unplug the harness and the hoses at the tank and remove the tank. Then, drain the washer fluid and pop the old pump out of the tank. Attach a set of jumper wires with an inline fuse (for safety) from the battery to the wire harness going to the pump. You should hear a wirring sound; if not, replace the pump. The new pump should come with a new rubber seal. Reverse to reapply and your done.
 
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Old 10-23-2010, 11:40 AM
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By the way, you can use the same method to test the pump without removing or draining the tank.
 
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