I am getting ready to start some body work on my good cab and the only area that is kind of nasty with rust (not rust through) is the rain gutters. I cant be the only one to have had this problem so I am looking for pointers on how to get in the gutters to get the rust removed. Maybe blasting is my only option but I see that area as one where getting the blast debris completely out would be difficult.

The Isuzu in my sig, I just shaved the gutters. I feel that the gutters on the 53 (just my opinion) lend to overall look of the truck as well as provide function so I dont want to remove them permantly.

 

I'd say we need to define exactly what you mean by rusty. When we're talking about rust in pinchweld areas, there's two different kinds. There's surface rust, which is easily removed by chemical or mechanical means, and then there's the nasty stuff inbetween the panels. That is difficult, if not impossible, to repair without taking the thing apart and replacing the metal. It's evident by the expansion and internal flaking of the pinchweld area, which also degrades the structural strength of the body.

Which is yours?

 

well its not surface rust (or to me its not), I have that in other areas of the cab as well. I can try and get some close pics to show you. When I compare the two cabs to each other I dont see any noticable difference between the seams. But the rust is of the flakey variety.

Let me try and get some close pics to throw on here. That way you advise me the best course.

 

I possibly have the same issue in my '85 F150. I think I will subscribe to this thread in hopes of learning the whats and hows in dealing with mine.

 

It is common to have the drip rail area rust.....it collects debris and effects cabs diffferently, some rust out and some pin hole, and others are very easily refinished.

Is the truck a show truck.....or a nice cruiser, or a drive it and use it kind of truck?
This will tell what repair to do......in other words don't cut it all out and repair the heck out it.....and then just use it to haul mulch....LOL

Most guys get discouraged at some direction and think they must cut it all out or it will rust right back.......it all depends on the amount of money and the direction you are going with the build.
If sanding and grinding with a little filler will be o.k. for now.....then do that.
If you are making a nicer truck....then the cab is no-where to skimp......and most big-dollar trucks have the cabs primped over for days....and welding the drip rail area is by far the long term way to go.

I have spoken to a bunch of guys who uit on their trucks , money...economy...divorce...job loss.....and invested a lot of money, and cannot recoup it, or have to sell as a project truck because now they cut the crap out of it for good intentions and later have to basically give it away.
If you just want to blast or grind it....chassis-saver/rust magnet ecapsulating paint the area and then refinish it however you want.
That stuff really holds on tight and works great on rusty areas.
Hope that helps out.....but how-ever you repair it.....if you cut it all out and don't finish it........maybe a sun-roof would be an option.....LOL
Good luck, Bill

 

It's a family heirloom. It was dads hot rod of sorts back in 77. I have it now and am going to finish building the truck in his name but in my style. It will never haul anything but us around to local cruise ins and some national shows. I do all my own work so what ever the fix, it will be me doing it. I am not trying to build a mega buck trailer queen, my wife doesnt let me play that hard in the garage!

I couldnt really get to the cab tonight to get great closeups (I am guilty of creating a parts maze in my garage) but you can at least see what I am talking about until I can get some close up pics tomorrow. I have the day off and its a garage day!!




close up with the zoom - better pic tomorrow

 

Looks like it isn't so bad. I think a little sanding to see how much the rust has gotten to....but all in all not a bad rust through area that I can see.
Time to organize the garage a little...haha!!!
Nice car in the background and a lift also.....wow.....nice

 

Funny enough, all of my mess is f100 related. I have two complete F100 trucks blown apart in my garage. The sooner I get this one truck built the less of a mess there will be!!! But you're right, I need to be better about my mess. I can say though, that I am working on it!!! Thats a better direction than it just sitting there (which its done pleanty of too)

Two F100's blown apart, a 1972 Citroen DS, a 84 Isuzu pup, 77 Honda CB750, and my wife still is able to park in the garage at night! LOL, talk about 10 lbs of you know what in a 5 lb. bag! My daily is left outside which I am ok with all things considered!

I will do what I can with the rails tomorrow and see whats left. If I cant get at the rust down in the gutter, I was thinking about carefully cutting the drip rail off so I can get access to clean better. Then welding it back into place.

 

Ive been waiting to see when you where going to start on the truck!LOL Good luck

 

Mine is a little rougher then yours. I'm going to use some POR-15 products on mine. Mine's not going to be a show truck. Mines going to be a year round daily driver. So I just want it to look decent and not rust any further.

I'm going to sand mine down the best I can and then use some POR Patch on it and then a coat of the POR-15. The POR Patch is a thicker version of POR-15. It dries hard but stays flexible so I'm going to use it like seam sealer in the rain gutters.

 

That doesn't look too bad. I would not recommend cutting the drip rail off, the roof and the side walls of the truck join inside the gutter. cut the rails off and there won't be anything holding the roof skin on. Here's how it's put together:


Flange on roofskin sits inside gutter flange on cab sidewall and is spotwelded. The joint is then covered in sealer. The sealer can be removed with a heatgun and scraper. I'd remove any/all rust with clean and strip wheel and nylon/abrasive wheel (these can be found at ACE hardware stores near the wire brush wheels. They are brightly colored, color indicates grit, wheels made of stiff nylon bristles that are impregnated with abrasive. They are safer and more effective than a wire wheel.), then evaluate what you have. If there is no pinholes or rust thru, treat the area with a rust converter product such as Red Devil rust converter, epoxy prime, fill rust pitting with surfacer putty, reseal gutter and paint. If there is rust thru (check carefully in corners and over windshield then cut out thinned metal and replace.

 

Ax,
thats great to know. After seeing the diagram cutting that rain channel doesnt look like a good idea. In addition I have never used those wheels you're talking about, though I had seen them. I will pick a couple up and see how they work.

good advise and thanks!

First time in 19 years that I have done any real work (out side of moving the parts from state to state) on the truck.. and I am 33! Doing a lot of metal fab to get the front suspension the way I want it.

 

Hey Ax, I looked at our Home Depot and Lowes for that Red Devil rust convertor and was told they do not carry it. I also looked on line for it but never found a distributor. I finally bit the bullet and bought a gallon of Rust Bullet. Where do you find the Red Devil?
Sundown, you should see my drip rail! It is rusted thru for about 18 inches above the windshield. I am really dreading trying to patch this area. The PO used some type of bondo with a mesh type material or it may be fiberglass. But he only did about a third of it and just stopped. Your's looks to be in good shape.

 

Hey AXracer, where can I find this sealer, and what is it called?

 

OOPS! I just looked at the container, it's made by Rustoleum and called "rust reformer" It comes in a 16 oz white plastic rectangular container with a red cap with an applicator pad attached to the side. I also have it in a smaller round black plastic bottle with a spout top and even in a rattle can. I get it at Home Depot in the paint dept. with the cleaners and chemicals. It's a bit pricy, but a little goes a long ways.
Be sure to wear rubber gloves when you use it or it will turn your hands black which won't wash off. Only use it on rusty surfaces it won't react with clean metal, but it stops rust permanently.