Ford Explorer IAC Fix
My SOHC 4.0 Stall Symptoms:
Stuck on the second tier of a multi level parking lot at 8:30 one rainy Poughkeepsie NY October evening-
My wife and I were confronted by the way our Explorer would start for a moment but quickly stall out after the gas peddle was released to idle-
After repeated attempts to keep it going- I discovered that the only way to get the car home without the need for tow, would be to drive w/one foot on the gas and the other riding the break- while never releasing the gas at idle.
This is dangerous and though I would not highly advise it � Well it worked for us- and only stalled out once � Later – After much re-searching these Net sites and a hard to read ford shop manual I have on CD – I was able to repair and photograph what turned out to be my defective—-
IAC Valve
First
Remove four hex screws holding the plastic cover
Check the cable harness carrying voltage to your IAC-
Disconnect lAC valve,
Key on, engine off.
Measure Voltage PWR circuit voltage at the lAC valve harness connector.
Test Connectors supply of power to your IAC
Is voltage greater than 10,5 volts?
Yes;
KEY OFF, GO to KE3 (My valve measured 11.2 volts)
No;
REPAIR open circuit.
(My hope is that this is not your problem……As repair of an open circuit may be more difficult to trouble shoot than the
IAC alone)
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KE3 CHECK lAC VALVE RESISTANCE
lAC valve disconnected,
Measure lAC valve resistance between the two pins,
Is resistance between 6.0 and 13.0 ohms?
Yes
GO to KE4
No
REPLACE lAC valve,
(Mine measured 0.022 therefore was very suspect at this point)
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KE4 CHECK lAC VALVE FOR AN INTERNAL
SHORT TO lAC CASE
Measure the resistance from either lAC valve pin to lAC valve case,
Is resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes
GOto KE5
No
REPLACE. lAC valve,
(With this my valve measured OL and therefore it became clear that a repair cleaning was of little use )
Anyway – Further checks go on as follows if yours passes the above tests
KE5 CHECK AIR INLET FOR PLUGGING
Inspect the entire intake air system for debris, blockage and other damage.
Remove and inspect lAC air tubes (if equipped) for blockage and other
damage.
Remove and inspect the air cleaner element for excessive dirt.
Is the intake air system OK?
Yes
RESTORE inlet air system. GO to
KE6 CHECK FOR INLET AIR LEAKS
Key on, engine running.
With engine running at idle, listen for vacuum leaks.
Inspect the entire intake air system from the mass air flow (MAF) sensor
to the intake manifold for leaks such as:
Cracked or punctured intake air tube.
Damaged or loose lAC air tubes.
Loose intake air tube at air cleaner housing or throttle body.
lAC valve or gasket seal.
EGR valve gasket seal.
Vacuum supply connector and hose.
Many on the net have written about cleaning the IAC then re-installiung it- Well I think that is fine but- Only when it passes the electrical tests above � and cleaning also carries the added cash savings of about $65 or, in my case $88.00 dealer cost- I have only two warnings about it though and that is this;-
There may be a chance that while cleaning your untested valve, you perhaps may just rattle an intermitant internal short connection enough to make it work for a week or two � then when you least expect it- got ya!
This is why it is a good idea to electrically test first- Before that solvent, carbon q-tip cleaning I’ve often read about.
Using these repair sites for many years I’ve saved some good bucks �Since I’ve been thankful but never said or written my thanks….. Well now I hope this helps someone out there! And……. anyone out there who is thinking of sending flowers to a loved one in the New York Dutchess County Poughkeepsie area—-Feel free to check out my Wife’s florist website……. Here is the link; http://www.afgflorist.com.
Until later………
Let those good Explorer times roll-
