I was wondering if anyone attempted this, or has done any prelim work on taking a late model 6.2L or 6.5L into a Ford. Conceivably, could try to mate to a C6 or use the GM TH400 with respective transfer cases (both use driver side front diff's).

Donor would be a 1990 K2500, receiver would probably be a 1988 F-250

Thanks!

x

 

Unless you just have the 6.2 or 6.5 i wouldnt bother with them. Look at finding a 12v Cummins.

 

the 6.2 was a gutless wonder, and the 6.5 was not much better.
i would not bother with either of them, cause the time required to fabricate mounts and the like would not be worth the effort.

 

Bad idea, those engines were only good as paper weights or boat anchors.

 

Boat anchors? Not really. GM short-changed the injector pump design, but the rest of the engine wasn't all that bad.

The "problems" started showing up when people started comparing them to Cummins. The basic design is quite similar to the 6.9idi engine from International, which was it's technological contemporary from Ford and International. Look at the 6.9's numbers, and you'll see that they're quite similar -- i.e. gutless wonders. It's just that one wears a bowtie, and one wears a blue oval.

They were never designed to be powerhouses. Indirect injection keeps ANY diesel from making large HP/TQ numbers. They were designed to be fuel mileage motors, and as such performed THAT task with reasonable proficiency.

GM's major failing was trying to advertise them, sell them, and service them like they were gasoline engines, which they were NOT.

My understanding is that if you spend the money to rebuild one CORRECTLY, they turn into quite the manageable monster. The primary BLOCK problem was the outrageously high compression ratio, which caused the engine to eat batteries faster than *I* eat chocolate cake. Couple that with 1960's battery technology, and cold weather, and you had an engine that refused to start in anything resembling cold weather. Lower the compression ratio to a much more manageable 14:1 to 16:1 (versus 22.5:1) and lots of problems started going away. After that, toss in a properly calibrated turbo, and you get the PEAK cylinder pressures back up, and back comes the power, albeit with a billowing cloud of smoke (thanks, IDI....) Of course, you had to spend $10K to GET this, but some people did and still do have that kind of money to play with (and the same kind of never-say-die GM-to-the-end attitude that one finds around these parts WRT Ford... )

Try to pull 25K lbs with one, and of course you'll be disappointed. It was never designed to do that.

-blaine

 

Blaine, a turkey is a turkey......

 

Sorry.... There's just something about the clatter of a GM diesel that makes me smile.

 

Must be a Detroit thing...

Now swapping in Blaine's Series 60 would be fun....

 

They do eat batteries... I know guys that have to replace them every fall.

I always told that you never lug those engines because you'll shatter the crank. I guess the vibration was the killer there.

A guy I work with has one and it's a mean machine. Got to love the sound, but it's a dog compared to what's on the market now.

 

Sorry, you can't have mine.

We'll go to a parts yard and get another.

But that frame REALLY needs some work.......

-blaine

 

Dyno 2-6-2010 304HP and 525TQ Max - The Truck Stop

 

Wow... Saweet.... Now we just need to know exactly what's been done to the engine... As I mentioned above, they CAN be money-pits.... I can't imagine he's spent less than $5K on that bad-boy....

-blaine

 

yes the 6.5ta wold be a good swap in to a f150 - f350
if they are IDI or a gas engine for these reasons

weight dont need to beef up the suspension
Fuel mileage GM has always held that best out of any Diesel up to 30 mpg under load
horse power 215
torque 440
both are the same as the factory Cummins 12 valve and early 24 valve

you can with minimal cost take them to
385 hp and 675 ftlbs torque with ot killing the fuel milage

you can not do that with an IDI and well with a gaser
well if you can afford the fuel cost lol

so yes and its simple to convert the and as for the electronic end simple too ad as fro the trans you can go with a th400 if you make sure the Vacuum pump is woring or you can go with a th700r4 HD

and the big thing you can buy a running need no work 6.5 for under $1000 and all the parts needed to do the swap for under $200

and to beef it up it will only cost you $850-1000

the average cummins conversion will run you nye to $6000

and to beef it up from factor power another $2000-5000

and as for the IDI well you cant get it up to that power at any cost it wont take it and even if you did it would cost you well over $3000


so yes

it would be like me when I do my Detroit series 53 and 71 conversion

Cheers

 

Holy thread resurection!!!!!!!..........this one was dead for only 8 years!!!!!!!!

 

Thats because i am writing from the past lol or am i 8 years behind .. time loop mm its a Paradox or a pair of ducks ...... got up late reading random things and this is what happens