I have spent a week working on a 2019 ford edge 2.0. When i first got to it it ran pretty decent but didnt have much acceleration power. Tried to drive it up a hill and it bogged right down like it had no throttle then stalled. Fired up again and i limped it back. Codes were...an evap purge valve...changed it...low pressure fuel open...repaired wires...its good now. Only code left is p0a5c... generator circuit high...but it isnt rhe problem. No other codes. After i changed evap and fixed low pressure sensor wiring it would still not run for more then a minute and some times not more then a couple seconds. High pressure reading seemed to die out before the rpm would stumble and die sometimes but not others. Sometimes it would stall with 30 psi sometimes with 1800...so i threw a used high pressure pump in there.(Known good). Same thing. Watching live data with my autel sometimes when it stall at 1800 psi if i left it koeo the psi would climb to 3000 psi... so i check wiring to frp its good so i change frp with a new ford one. Same thing. So i order the dongle for forscan and set up everything o can think of ...cam timing good..fuel pressure good...cmp/ckp sync... fuel control valve % everything. Hell i even got chatgpt involved. It looked at all the logs. I checked and wiggle checked wiring to frp again...fuel control valve on pump. No missfires ever. Run for 5 10 seconds stumble...stall. yesterday i even pulled the plugs and cleaned them up with a wire brush and put them back in. Then i tried to start it with one coil unplugged at a time amd it wouldnt start. So i plugged them in again. Then it wouldnt start. crank no start. I pull the plugs again thinking maybe i flooded it. They were a little wet not bad though. Left the plugs out overnight and then put them back in still crank no start. Forscan again logs look normal except dechoke is yes. But it should start. Peddle to the floor still no start. Pull plug in hole 2 and check spark...its wet when i pull it...but has spark. Pulled them all again and going to leave them over night again. But this is driving me nuts
Went in circles for days chasing what i thought maybe was frp issues or wiring. Now with the no start. All i did was take the plugs out and clean them and put them.back in. Anybody have any ideas or experience repairing these things. I have forscan logs i can send. Never used chatgpt for automotive ever in my life. Its good but it aint magic and even its lost as to what the heck is going on. Help!!

 

I'd stop chasing the FRP sensor for a minute. The biggest clue is that it became a crank-no-start immediately after pulling and cleaning the plugs. On EcoBoosts, fuel soaked plugs can spark in open air but fail under compression. I'd put in 4 brand new plugs, clear the flooded cylinders (fuel disabled while cranking), then try again. If it still won't start, check compression before throwing any more parts at it. The original bogging/stalling could have been fuel control related, but the current no-start sounds more like fouled plugs, flooding, or a mechanical/timing issue. What are your cranking rail pressure, desired rail pressure, and compression numbers?

 

I had pulled the plugs last night to air them and the holes out. Blew them with air. Put them back in and cranked a little again...started running on 1 and 2. I switched the coils to 1 and 2 from 3 and 4 and i noticed that cylinder 1 coil pushed in the hole easy and right almost right to the hilt and others hadn't so put a little silicone apray on the outside the boot and then 2 and 3 pushed in to the hilt but 4 i had to force down with the bolt. It Fired up and ran on 1 2 and 3...and it actually ran for 3 or 4 min...longer thwn this thing has ever ran for me. So i shut it down and kept trying to coil 4 to seat properly and i never seems to. Im going to run to town tomorrow and grab some new plugs and some dielectric grease. Gunna take the air duct off to to get it of the way so when i try to put 4 in again i dont have to bend the boot to squeeze it under the fuel feed line to the high pressure pump.

Sorry long story...

But im wondering...were those black plugs the problem the whole time? Would it really run ****ty enough to stall out and have the pcm doing all kinds of weird crap with the fuel pressure... because of some plugs? And without even one single missfire ever?

 

All the other pids were good. The only thing pissing around was the frp readings...and some times the fuel control valve would start climbing and get to 100 and then frp would instantly drop to nothing. Like the valve closing not opening. Then it had me thinking wiring. Sometimes it would run good and then stumble and stall and frp would drop before desired and rpm. But lots of tiimes frp was at 1000 psi and desired would drop first and then it would climb to 2700 psi just sitting there. Ugh. Driving me nuts. But i hope plugs and some grease fixes it all.

 

Honestly, yes. I've seen EcoBoosts do some weird things with fuel pressure PIDs when they're misfiring badly or not burning the fuel properly. The fact it suddenly ran on 3 cylinders and ran longer than it ever has after airing the plugs out is a huge clue. The coil not seating correctly on #4 is another red flag. I'd put in a fresh set of plugs, make sure all the coils are fully seated, and see what it does before chasing the fuel system any further. If it starts and runs normally with new plugs, all that FRP data may have just been sending you down a rabbit hole. If it still acts up, then I'd be looking at compression and timing next.

 

I don't have any direct experience with the 2019 Explorer, but I suspect that EcoBoost has a returnless fuel system, and the FRP is instrumental in telling the fuel pump driver module what duty cycle to run the pump at to provide enough fuel pressure for the engine load, etc. I'm not sure if it would necessarily try to maintain a particular FRP all the time when running, especially if it's running poorly. What do the Short and Long Term Fuel Trim numbers look like?

Your initial symptoms sound like they could possibly be due to a restricted exhaust. Have you tried pulling the upstream oxygen sensor to see if the engine starts and idles better?

-Rod

 

I havent done that mainly because there has been times when this thing would run for only 3 or 4 seconds even after it hasnt ran for hours. Not enough time for a plugged cat to come into play...right? And then half hour later of doing scans and testing stuff...it runs for 2 or 3 mins. And during that time its had times when frp was 1800 and stayed that way right thru the stall...amd then it climbed to 3000 psi just sitting there koeo. Then 10 starts later FRP drops way before desired. And sometimes fuel control valve starts opening more and more before anything else moves. Then it gets to 100% and rhen frp dropped like and then desired followed as it stalled.

Just so random and crazy making me chase my tail.

But one thing i did notice...it ran longer then ever on 2 cylinders and 3 cylinders then it was on all of them. But today i have new plugs and ill through them on and get it running on 4 cylinders again and go from there. If it starts stalling again ill pull the o2 sensor. Just seemed to me that it couldn't be cat problem if run times very so much. Thanks for the help and i will pull to confirm and let you know later.