Automatic and Manaul TPS the Same?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Pennsylvania
Automatic and Manaul TPS the Same?
Looking to replace my TPS on my 95 F250, 5.8, ZF 5-speed manual. Truck does not go below 1700 RPM at all after replacing the IACV (Motorcraft), but idles at 500RPM with the IACV unplugged. I do not see any of the replacement TPS offerings reference a manual trans, however some brands list their for E4OD (Standard Motor Products), while others do not specify a trans at all. Does it make a difference or do I need to source the elusive manual trans TPS?
Also, this looks to be a discontinued OEM part with no Motorcraft replacement. In this case what is the go-to brand? I'm thinking either Standard or NTK.
Thank you in advance.
Also, this looks to be a discontinued OEM part with no Motorcraft replacement. In this case what is the go-to brand? I'm thinking either Standard or NTK.
Thank you in advance.
Last edited by CantAffordAToyota; Today at 08:27 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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Are you guessing that is the problem or is there a fault code for the TPS? What are the closed and open voltages? Is there a dead spot as you watch the voltmeter when going from closed to open and back?
Last edited by My4Fordtrucks; Today at 08:53 AM.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Pennsylvania
I am "guessing" after finding someone with the same issue fix it with the TPS. I have not tested any voltages. I do not have enough time with the truck (about an hour a month) to go thru diagnostic procedures thoroughly.
Do you know if there's a difference between auto/manual TPS's?
Last edited by CantAffordAToyota; Today at 08:55 AM.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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Around here we try to help each other fix their trucks without wasting money on parts that are not bad. It takes 5 minutes to check for fault codes. I have never seen an E4OD only TPS. How does the sensor know what transmission is connected to the engine. Buy one of the sensors that isn’t listed as “E4OD only”.
Can't afford a Ford either if you are going to keep buying parts without doing any diagnostic testing. Good luck with the repair
Can't afford a Ford either if you are going to keep buying parts without doing any diagnostic testing. Good luck with the repair
Last edited by My4Fordtrucks; Today at 09:15 AM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
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To answer your question, I don't know, but I suspect they are the same.
These sensors are not adjustable because the EEC-IV is able to figure out what is right. Yes, some professional will chime in and prove me wrong. It's really not hard to test the sensor.
If grabbing the shot gun is your method to resolving problems and that works for you, that is great. Some of us like to perform tests to confirm what we think is wrong. Both ways work but one tends to take more time/money.
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Joined: Jan 2025
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From: White Bear Lake
No difference between auto and manual, P/N was E7TZ-9B989-D. The dealers below may have NOS parts on hand,
Nielson Ford, NJ 973-702-8000
Kearny Ford, CA 858-560-5033
Hope that helps.
Nielson Ford, NJ 973-702-8000
Kearny Ford, CA 858-560-5033
Hope that helps.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Pennsylvania
I am very pro-diagnostic and anti-shotgunning as a virtue. Unfortunately due to life circumstances I do not need to explain on forums, I am currently not afforded that time to backprobe and test signal voltages (and believe me, no sarcasm intended, I am actually a fan and quite good with DC electrical diagnosis), whilst being too stubborn to ever let others work on my vehicles. It's a me-problem, I know, but asking straight forward questions without receiving life advice is just too much to ask I reckon. Therefore I must buy and hope for the best. (My response also indicated I did the research on my exact issue with similar success stories).
Thank you for those that have answered my question on the specifics of an earth-shatteringly expensive $30 part.
Thank you for those that have answered my question on the specifics of an earth-shatteringly expensive $30 part.
Last edited by CantAffordAToyota; Today at 09:38 AM.
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Just an observation.
The TPS is exactly like a dimmer switch in a wall. Variable resistance.
No back probing needed.
You un plug it. Put DVOM on leads, open/close throttle body & watch readout.
Of course if you want to go through all the monkey-motion of removing throttle body & putting new one of unknown quality on & hoping for positive out come...
There's that.
The TPS is exactly like a dimmer switch in a wall. Variable resistance.
No back probing needed.
You un plug it. Put DVOM on leads, open/close throttle body & watch readout.
Of course if you want to go through all the monkey-motion of removing throttle body & putting new one of unknown quality on & hoping for positive out come...
There's that.
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