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Can anyone help with advice on avoiding the dreaded lower intake manifold coolant passage bolts snapping off? I don’t think mine have ever been off and all 4 feel like they’re gonna break if I try harder! 😬
If I thought it was going to break and nothing seemed to work, I might think about removing just the head of the bolt and when all the heads/bolts are off, then lift the intake completely off. The bolt might be seized in the manifold hole but that should break loose. That way, you got something to work with.
When I had this issue with my core engine, I was not too concerned about broken/seized bolts since I was not going to use the stock heads or front cover. I ended up breaking the front cover to get the bolts out without breaking in the block and I think I ended up breaking the bolts that held the manifold on.
Oxy acetylene torch rig
Use a little heat on the corner ones
Way easier with the front clip off
Rust penetrant and heat
Back and forth a couple of times with the heat and cool them off with the penetrant
Then back and forth with the bolts and they might not break
Oxy acetylene torch rig
Use a little heat on the corner ones
Way easier with the front clip off
Rust penetrant and heat
Back and forth a couple of times with the heat and cool them off with the penetrant
Then back and forth with the bolts and they might not break
^This!
All four end intake bolts go all the way through the corners of the heads and into open air where those threads are open to corrosion. Same with those water pump bolts that go into/through the timing chain cover. Open to the elements where they corrode. I start spraying those bolts a month ahead of time with penetrant of choice (Kroil or PB BLaster.), letting the engines normal heat cycles help work the penetrant into the threads - re-applying the penetrant weekly!!! When time for removal, work those bolts back and forth gently, spraying with more penetrant and heat.
^This!
All four end intake bolts go all the way through the corners of the heads and into open air where those threads are open to corrosion. Same with those water pump bolts that go into/through the timing chain cover. Open to the elements where they corrode. I start spraying those bolts a month ahead of time with penetrant of choice (Kroil or PB BLaster.), letting the engines normal heat cycles help work the penetrant into the threads - re-applying the penetrant weekly!!! When time for removal, work those bolts back and forth gently, spraying with more penetrant and heat.
I’m guessing you’re spraying the exposed threads under the head?
Look into an induction heater. I finally broke down and bought one and after removing the dreaded egr tube on my 96 4.9, removing multiple other bolts as I did a series of updates, I was giving myself the “you big dummy” for not buying it earlier. Bolts that made me fearful of breaking off came right out. I know it’s a couple hundred bucks (don’t need the expensive bolt-buster brand), but trust me, you’ll wish you had bought one years ago.
Look into an induction heater. I finally broke down and bought one and after removing the dreaded egr tube on my 96 4.9, removing multiple other bolts as I did a series of updates, I was giving myself the “you big dummy” for not buying it earlier. Bolts that made me fearful of breaking off came right out. I know it’s a couple hundred bucks (don’t need the expensive bolt-buster brand), but trust me, you’ll wish you had bought one years ago.
Induction Heater Bolt Removal with 8 Coils, 1200W 110V Bolt Buster Heat Induction Tool for Rusty Screw Removing, Hand Held Magnetic Bolt Heater With Storage Box (8 Coils) https://a.co/d/02ANFc6H
here you go. but just type “induction heater” into amazon and you’ll see lots of choices.
Thanks for the ideas. I don’t have torches and cannot buy the induction heater any time soon. Sounds nice though. I’ve been soaking the bolts and trying them periodically. I do have a can of map gas, so I’ll try adding some heat that way.
If i recall from years ago, the bolts are likely corroded and weakened where they pass through the intake and stuck right there. I did get one out up front and despite all of my oiling efforts, no oil made it down the bolt and I don’t know how to get the PB Blaster to flow up the threads from the bottom. Just slowly worked it back and forth very slowly and a little heat may have helped.
I wonder if I’d be able to even get the manifold off if I cut the bolt heads off. I’m really not looking forward to drilling out what’s left in the cylinder heads.
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