Much to my dismay, I've come to accept that my problems are all probably sort of related electrical issues. When I purchased my F150 the radio did not function at all, which I told myself was probably the old Kenwood that was installed when I got it. The fuse for the radio/courtesy was blown and when I replaced it the overhead (dome?) door open light would not shut off, nor would the cargo light. The dome light assembly also got extremely hot extremely quickly. I decided I was willing to live without those amenities until a time that I felt I had nothing more to bring back to original functionality and transitioned to the radio. Purchased a great new unit from Crutchfield, wired it up, threw it in, and...nothing. After some prodding with a multimeter I discovered that while the direct battery wire was hot, the accessory/ignition wire did not become live upon turning the key.

My question to the council is this: before I go pulling the steering wheel and buying MORE parts that are in working order, what is the most likely culprit for this or what is the best way to go about determining? The dash lights, door open chime, and everything else works fine when the key is in the accessory position and running which leads me to believe that there's a short somewhere or that the dome/cargo light situation has caused a failure somewhere that leads to the radio. The fuse I replaced has not blown since.

I'm happy to attempt any and all diagnostic measures if anyone has any suggestions and thanks in advance for your help!

-The Satchler

 

You checked that the fuse is still good? Or did you remove it when things didn’t shut off? Did you turn the headlight **** to see if that’s why they were on? Turn, not pull like changing the dimmer.

 

Much to my dismay, indeed the fuse is good. I checked all the fuses that are connected to the radio (8,11, and 4 can't remember) and all were good. I simply removed the bulb for the cargo light and dome light. The two toggle lights on the dome light assembly function as intended, I simply couldn't get the dome or cargo to turn off, although I did discover that the switch on the door dims them, but does not cut them off entirely. Honestly I think that issue may be unrelated aside from being on the same fuse.

My current suspicion is that within the steering column when the key is in the accessory or run position a connection is not being made that sends power to the accessory line, but if that were the case I would think the door open dinger and the warning lights would also fail to function. I think I mentioned in the OP that the direct battery connection is receiving 12V in the off position.

Thanks for the reply it's a doozy

 

It’s worth taking a look at the ignition switch. It’s on top of the column almost at the floor so you don’t have to take the wheel off to test initially. What year is your truck?

 

dome and cargo lights staying on is most likely a bad door switch.
no switched power to radio could e anything.

 

Planning on testing the ignition switch here shortly, will report back. She's a '90.

 

I'll take a look at them today. When I pulled the dome/cargo subharness out of the driver's side there was some charring on the original cloth wire protector and I was suspecting that there was a short or something. There also appears to be an in-line diode or something used as a bridge between a couple of the wires, cant recall off the top of my head. The door switches being upstream of that harness not functioning does track as a good cause for the failure, thanks Tom

 

I didnt see where you answered this, the headlight switch turns clockwise, and counter clockwise, to dim dash lights or turn on bed curtesy light, counter clockwise, should feel/hear click to get on.

 

I had a 94 that the courtesy lights would not g off. Someone on this site told me that the door switches are threaded and to just back off the switch about a 1/2 turn. That was all that was wrong.

 

Sorry, yes I am sure that is not currently causing the dome/cargo issue

 

Thanks for the information everyone, I dropped the steering wheel and tested the ignition switch. Works fine. Moved on to testing all the fuses and plugs and they work. Worst case scenario realized, I think somewhere between the fuse box and stereo there is a short. Don't currently feel like worsening my suffering anymore today but if anyone has tips about tracking that down please let me know. I've identified that the fuse box wires go upward and join a thick portion of the harness that runs underneath the instrument cluster and then to the stereo. If no one has any better ideas I suppose at some point I'll try to gain access and cut back from the yell/blk accessory wire until I find something that gets 12V with the key ON.

Cheers lads, thanks again

 

If the door and switch are out of proper position it's possible for the switch, in whichever door, to allow the courtesy lights to stay on even when the door(s) is(are) closed. This can happen if the switch gets pushed in too far preventing the door from engaging it properly..

The door switches are self-adjusting when installed, but it's not apparent how this works just looking at them. When they are new they are "long". There is a moveable sleeve part the button fits into and a stationary tube part that screws into the door frame. After you install them you close the door and the door pushes the moveable sleeve into the stationary tube. The spring under the button is soft enough to compress fully from the door pushing on the button. This allows the sleeve to be pushed into the tube. When the door stops moving the sleeve is in the correct position. Open the door and the button comes out, closing the switch. Close the door and the button goes in, opening the switch.

You can see the assembly here:





If the switch is damaged in some way, pressing the button manually might not be a sufficient test. Unscrew it and unplug the switch from the wire. You'll want to do both at the same time. If the lights go out with both switches unplugged, replace both or just the one that's not working right. You can also try pulling the button/sleeve out and closing the door again to get it in proper position, but I haven't tried that myself.

 

This could be the culprit...checked some other similar forums last night and it did seem to others as though the radio issues was caused by the courtesy light circuit and sometimes the door switches. I'm downing a cup of coffee and working up the courage to mess with it again today. This will be the first thing I check and I'll report back in with my findings. Great write up and explanation!

It appears as though my truck was repainted fairly recently by a company probably named "Jo-Bob's Painting"...lots of issues I've already corrected that are clearly the result of poor reassembly following the paint and tons of overspray (and free tools in front of the radiator). The driver's door is incredibly difficulty to close and I assume the lock mechanism but it hasnt been a huge priority for me. Door not closing properly=door switch not engaging properly=courtesy light high draw=radio power loss.

Not trying to get my hopes up but this could very well be it.

 

Hmmm. Door problems? Yes. Well, you'll want to get the door proper first, then do the switches. The hinge pins are easy enough to replace. But, if the hinges have been taken off, getting them aligned again will take some work. You'll need these proper before adjusting the locking pin on the other side, which may have also been messed with by the painters..

But, I'll share a trick about aligning the locking mechanism. Pull the inside door panel off. Loosen the locking pin/bolt thing in the door frame. Sit in the seat. Have someone hold the door in place so the body panels line up and the door is latched "closed". Reach inside the door with your ratchet and extension and tighten the locking pin. This will put it exactly where it belongs.

 

Right, anyone who has been following this chronicle (or comes across it in 10 years) the problem has been resolved in a largely anti-climactic fashion.

Turns out the cargo light/dome assembly has been functioning as intended, sans the overhead housing getting really hot (may replace with LED if I can find one). Not sure how I decided that that system was failing to function, there's a good possibility that weeks ago when I purchased the vehicle it was left with the courtesy lights on and I forgot how to turn them off, regardless, it seems like operator error and that's that.

The radio as it turns out was just failing to get ACC power. Somewhere along the wire there's a short and the harness is extremely inaccessible without fully dismantling the entire dash. I took it as far as removing the instrument cluster and dropping the steering wheel before deciding to splice a new wire into the accessory line (fuse 11). Crimped a new length on between the back of the fuse after unscrewing the panel and turning it 90 degrees. It's tight and it wasn't easy but I ran the new wire alongside the harness behind the instrument cluster to the radio and spliced it into the ACC wire (yellow/blk), put everything back together, and called it a day.

It's not the most elegant solution, but it works.

Thanks again for everyone contributing advice and I look forward to paying it forward in the future.