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I was under the impression that the distributor had to be removed from a 223 in order to install a new wire from the coil to points.
I have a spare 223 sitting in the garage, so I attempted on it. All went well, with distributor still in place. Unless I’m missing something, and there is a special passage under the plate where the wire must pass.?.?
Anyways, I pulled the original coil to points wire off the distributor(eyelet on points end was removed). Put heat shrink tubing over the existing woven wire wrap, making sure it cooled in about the same formation as original. Snaked the wire around the distributor pretty easily. Then I could attach a new eyelet for attachment to the points.
I realize it is easier to do with an engine on the stand than in the truck, but am I missing something???Didnt seam that difficult.
I was under the impression that the distributor had to be removed from a 223 in order to install a new wire from the coil to points.
I have a spare 223 sitting in the garage, so I attempted on it. All went well, with distributor still in place. Unless I’m missing something, and there is a special passage under the plate where the wire must pass.?.?
Anyways, I pulled the original coil to points wire off the distributor(eyelet on points end was removed). Put heat shrink tubing over the existing woven wire wrap, making sure it cooled in about the same formation as original. Snaked the wire around the distributor pretty easily. Then I could attach a new eyelet for attachment to the points.
I realize it is easier to do with an engine on the stand than in the truck, but am I missing something???Didnt seam that difficult.
My 53 F350 has a resistor on the firewall. Does the positive wire need to go through that? The motor is a 63 223 and it’s 12v. A friend says it needs to so that you don’t burn thru points?
My 53 F350 has a resistor on the firewall. Does the positive wire need to go through that? The motor is a 63 223 and it’s 12v. A friend says it needs to so that you don’t burn thru points?
Yes. Power from the ignition goes to the resistor then to the coil. The resistor helps protect everything (coil, condenser, points) from excess power.
What took me two evenings to diagnose…..took me twenty minutes to fix.
This is the original coil to points wire. I put a short piece of heat shrink and a new end on in an attempt to gently the truck running. I couldn’t see the problem area til I pulled the wire.
I used the wire off my spare motor/distributor for the repair. I left the woven insulation (which was in pretty good shape) in place, and put heat shrink over top for double coverage.
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