When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
hello everyone, just read up on a forum of a guy using propane as refrigerant on these trucks and he got crazy temps. problem is he hasn’t been active in 13 years and he mentioned something about installing an evap temp switch and putting a restriction in the suction line as well as using the “smallest orfice tube” he could find. anyone got some info on that? also please don’t come and tell me the “dangers” of what i’m doing. i’m well aware. what kind of restriction and how big? where did he tap the wires for the evap switch into? what size orfice do you think he went with?
i’m also well aware none of you are tapped into @89ford73 ’s life but you can find his write up under his page “what is the coldest ac temp achievable?” just seeing if any of you guys tried the propane method and what you did.
never tried propane, but i di use a butane mix for about 1 month years ago on the 99 crown vic cause it had a leak, i was waiting on parts to fix the leak, and the butane mix was free because it was freshly outlawed and could not be sold legally. it worked good, but once the system was repaired i did a complete system flush and recharged with the proper R134-A
Back in the crazy days right after r12 was banned, R12A was sold. It was one of the many scams that scammers were using to take advantage of the ban. R12A was a flammable mix of some kind of hydrocarbons, etc.
You can freeze your evaporator with R134. That is too cold, 'nuff said.
Read about cycle times and fixed orifice systems, FFOT, Subcool, superheat, latent heat and sensible heat. Pressure temperature chart may be helpful.
Typically evap temp switches are on my TXV vehicle systems and the FOT ones run the pressure switch on the dryer that cycles around 42F...so you are wanting to basically reinvent the wheel for no real gains, right? Why not look for a lower pressure cycle switch for the dryer? Too low and the evap can freeze over.
I have used LP before 152A other blended crap too 152 aka air duster works great in R12 systems at 54% of stock capacity Big SAE doc on it out there
Note weak AC can come from a filthy evap, which yours surely is after 30 years. Degraded foam seals on the evap doors also. No tint does not help you, nor the lack of good insulation in these trucks. A dirty condenser hurts also.
I don't know much about how you'd plan for this swap, but in commercial/industrial systems, propane has been used as a refrigerant for decades, and it is very effective.
It has the added advantage of being commonplace, and pretty low cost.
^^ what he said. Not uncommon in industrial systems.
using it in an automotive function may be challenging to find a lot of information. It would be great if you post anything you may find/do so we can all learn together.
Why not look for a lower pressure cycle switch for the dryer? Too low and the evap can freeze over.
Note weak AC can come from a filthy evap, which yours surely is after 30 years. Degraded foam seals on the evap doors also. No tint does not help you, nor the lack of good insulation in these trucks. A dirty condenser hurts also.
your right for the cycle switch. that’s the same thing as the evap temp switch good call haha. i also thought about looping that switch so that way i can just not turn the ac down low enough to freeze my evap? because i know with the hvac controls, if i turn it to the “max ac” setting but have the “temp” **** in the middle or to heat, the compressor with cycle here and there. does the cycle switch on the drier control that? or does the high pressure switch on the back of the compressor do that?
^^ what he said. Not uncommon in industrial systems.
using it in an automotive function may be challenging to find a lot of information. It would be great if you post anything you may find/do so we can all learn together.
absolutely. i’ll be searching. also i did replace every component, (compressor, condenser, evap, orfice, drier) which was all rock auto chinese stuff (don’t ever buy chinese for these trucks), and i ended up oil logging the system and here’s what i did. the orfice tube that I bought was a “variable orficing orfice tube” which is some upsell chinese stuff (again). i ended up putting the orfice tube in backwards cause it was different then the one in the truck (red) and it caused crazy high high readings and no lows. makes sense cause of the blockage. figured that out but realized that my compressor was definitely stressed and possibly caused extreme premature wear so i replaced it again but never drained the oil. so now i have to replace my oil logged condenser, find an oem drier out of a junk yard truck (ford says do NOT replace drier if system is opened unlike traditional driers), drain the compressor and flush evap, replace the variable orfice tube for the smallest one i can find. i’ll keep everyone updated. can i loop that switch on drier?
If you loop the dryer switch, the system cannot cycle. On Max at idle mine would hover in the upper 40s I seem to recall. Drop blower speed to low, it would...depends upon ambient. I would not rely on the high switch to save the system if you freeze the evap, by that time you will probably blow a line due to no refrigerant flow.
My old BMW and MBs use an actual evap temp sensor in the box with wires out to the headunit and a TXV. I have never seen an evap sensor with a FOT system.
If you loop the dryer switch, the system cannot cycle.
My old BMW and MBs use an actual evap temp sensor in the box with wires out to the headunit and a TXV. I have never seen an evap sensor with a FOT system.
gotcha. yeah i see. maybe i will try to find a lower pressure dryer switch if that’s possible and see if i can go from there. does anyone know what the point of putting a restriction in the suction line does? why? pressures?
Insulation, ceramic tint, clean evap, clean cond, make sure the recycle door shuts, box seals
Plus the valve to the heater core.
i have a new evap, new condenser, new compressor, new drier but i oil logged the system. i stated it in one of my replies on this forum of what happened. i already have tint, i made sure my door shuts, but what do i do about the box seals and insulation?
just figured out that i am able to adjust the cycle switch on the accumulator based off of pressure readings so that way i DONT freeze the evap. there’s apparently a screw in the back of the connector that you turn 1/8 of turns clockwise or counterclockwise to make the compressor switch on and off at certain pressures. turning clockwise makes the compressor cycle at higher’ low end pressures and vice versa. i don’t want to mess with it and tune it wrong because my compressor stays on at idle all the time, but i know it cycles when im driving. what pressures should low side be at before it cycles off?