I've done a lot of searching and haven't found what I was looking for. (Truck info at bottom of post)

I recently installed a custom bed & slide in camper on my F250. All of my research pointed to going up one level above the factory spring rate on the rear springs when adding a bed camper. Since my truck came with 2+1, 2700#, springs, I ordered a set of 3+1, 3600#, springs which would give me an additional 1800# "capacity" without riding like a 10 speed on a gravel road when unloaded. The camper "should" weigh just under 1800# with propane & water, however it weighed about 500 hundred pounds more than I expected; even accounting for additional gear.
The new springs also seem to be a lot weaker than I expected. Apparently I don't understand spring math as well as I thought I did.
As you can see in the photo below, the rear springs are at/beyond their limit. The photo may not show it well, but the spring is deflected so much that it's W shaped. The guy at a local spring company mentioned that he has had "problems" with Power10 Parts springs and will not use them anymore which makes me wonder if this is just a bad set. So before I spend more money on springs, I'd like to get some advice from you guys.



Power10 Parts 43-1705 3600# springs



What I have:
43-1705 - 4(3/1) leaf, 3600 lbs capacity = 7200# Total

My Upgrade Options:
43-1681HD - 6(5/1) leaf, 4400 lbs capacity = 8800# Total
43-1717HD - 6(5/1) leaf, 6800 lbs capacity = 13600# Total

The current springs are so maxed out that an "add-a-leaf" won't help much.
The 1717HD is such a huge jump that I might as well just weld the axle to the frame to get the same ride.
The 1681HD appears to be the only option, but will it be enough? Too much?


Truck Specs:
2016 F-250 XLT 4x4
Crew Cab, SRW, Short Bed
New Falken Wildpeak A/T4W All Terrain LT265/70R17 123/120S EEngine: 6.2L 2-Valve SOHC EFI NA V8 Flex-Fuel
3.73 Axle Ratio
GVWR: 10,000 lb Payload Package
Transmission w/Driver Selectable Mode and Oil Cooler
Part-Time Four-Wheel Drive
4-Wheel Disc Brakes w/4-Wheel ABS, Front And Rear Vented Discs, Brake Assist and Hill Hold Control

 

Ouch, Id be a bit concerned about a broken leaf with the way their bent. How did it sit with the other OEM springs? I have air bags on my 99 250 and like them as it keeps the ride OK and are adjustable. I used Sumo springs once on a silverado and didnt care for them entirely. I think if I was you Id call the supplier and question their products a bit, see if they'll take them back, that just don't seem right the way it sits.

 

Here's my GVWR sticker for my 2016 F350... she's at 11.5k. I'd either spec out a spring at a truck spring shop or buy from dealer what you require for that camper (more expensive).

Have no experience with a camper, daily drive my truck and just use it to plow my driveway with a Meyer 8 foot Lot Pro.





Pics of my rear spring with contact overload spring.




Both were recently replaced, under warranty which expired December 2023, because the main spring cracked... both sides. This is common on not only Ford leaf springs, but on other brands as well from what I have heard. It happened to my 96 F250 as well.

 

With just the bed, the OEM springs where fine. I didn't weight the bed before I installed it, but based on the materials I used, the bed shouldn't weigh more than 500# +/-20#. A factory bed weighs around 465# (according to the info I could find) so the new bed only added maybe 60#... I swapped the new springs in before I put the camper on so I have no idea what the OEM springs looked like under that load. I definitely don't trust these springs last!

I'm not a big fan of airbags due to the fact that they can have multiple failure points, especially as they get older, and could leave me stranded, off road, 3000 miles from home. There's also the cost factor.

I got the current springs through my Autozone Pro account so returning them shouldn't be a problem. I just want to make sure that I get the right springs this time so I don't have any issues later on.

 

Without the VIN, the OP can't get springs like yours. Parts guys need the vin to get the springs. No other way.
I have put together an large chart for spring codes, springs, and rates. BUT without a VIN to purchase the springs at the parts counter, you are hosed. Engineering numbers, which are the numbers you see on the coil or the leaf, are not what the parts counter guys search. ONLY by VIN