In search of other issues regarding timimg and running a little hot I wanted to inspect the for worn distributor bushing or oil in the distributor, I found this debis. Distributor is dry and the distributor shaft feels tight enough to run properly. I checked common faults on installation of the electronic ignition one was using the original pink wire to the coil. I see a redish wire whichis part of the new assy. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

i cant tell what that is,,, rubber ? hard plastic? baked wire insulation? a piece of dirty rag? what does it taste like?

 

It looks like part of the sleeve from the Petronix trigger on the distributor shaft from rubbing it shouldn't be doing.

 

A 68 with 2 wires going into the distributor?
That is part of the stator
It's coming apart from the bushings being worn

 

It is a hard plastic. Some of the pieces I pulled out were like threads. No bare wires. With worn bushings (thanks for response) the shaft is mis-aligned and wobbling off center. Or could the distributor be worn beyond repair and need a total replacment? I guess we are talking millimeters and not inches. Would going back to the original points and condensor setup give it a little "fudge factor."?

 

Most likely the bushings in the breaker plate are worn enough to cause the issue
Sometimes the distributor shaft bushings wear enough to cause it
The breaker plates themselves (with the brass bushing) used to be replaceable separately
Does it still run?

 

Yes it runs. Are the breaker plate bushings accessible without pulling the distributor?

 

well, the breaker plate comes up and out once you get the shaft out of the distributor or remove the reluctor wheel for a Duraspark
Easier to pull the distributor and take the shaft out (maybe)
I've done it both ways and they both suck
The bushings are part of the breaker plate (bushing I should say, there's only one)

 

I poked around on the internet, looks like your plate might be part of the pickup / stator assembly
Need to look closely at one and see if it has the pin for the vacuum advance and a way to rotate around

 

There were two types of breaker plates the early Autolite and the later Motorcraft somewhere around 72 or 73. It appears you have the Autolite which was a bad design since it pivoted on three nylon rivets which were prone to wear and would eventually fall out. The Motorcraft plate is a much better design and is much more stable with less dwell change than the Autolite. This is a pic of a couple of old ones I have the Motorcraft is on the left. You can get the Motorcraft type at any parts house.

 

Thanks CD. For finding the part I should search for the breaker plate 360/390 FE cuin of the 70's? I'll look for that pin (maniac mechnaic) to see if it will rotate out. Do I need to rotate to number 1 TDC firing postion since I'm not moving (rotating the distributo?

 

If you are just changing the breaker plate it shouldn't matter if it is on TDC, but it never hurts to know that's where it is. I would just rotate the engine until the rotor is at #1. The part number for a Standard Ignition Products, "Motorcraft type" breaker plate is FD8006.

 

Started the tear down thought I toss a few photos in. Coil was new with electronic igntion went in - A stanndard FMC part, The magnetic sleeve maybe toast its grooved out the magnetic strips are cut. It has the vac advance clip and a spring clip should come easlity. Couldn't tell if this pentronix or duraspark Rotor bug signs of arcing. as well as the ditributor should brush out.

 

There is something way wrong with that distributor the arc marks on the cap seem to indicate the rotor wasn't the correct one or something is worn or assembled wrong. The original points cap was a D5AZ-12106-A, Motorcraft DH-354 the rotor was B7A-12200-A, Motorcraft DR-5. At this point considering all the parts you need to repair your distributor and the fact it may have internal problems. Buying a new distributor may be the cheapest way out. But please don't buy one of those Chevy looking made in China HEI's.

 

D5AZ 12106-A (DH-354) (BLUE) was the SOLID STATE DIST CAP (small) It needs to be matched with rotor D5PZ 12200-A (DR-5-B) (BLUE) (HIGHER DIELECTRIC)

B7A 12106-A was the points style cap (BLACK).

The rotor you show is for a points DIST.