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86 F-150, 5.0L, - how do I actually remove the alternator??
I've just inherited my dad's '86 F-150, 5.0L, V-belts, smog pump has been removed, but the bracket is still there. I'm not necessarily that lathered up about getting rid of the bracket, but I need some input on how to get the alternator off. I've changed many alternators in my life, but this one has me stumped - there is no pivot bolt. Where I would expect to find a long bolt appears to just be a metal tube (bushing?) that is in that location. I've located the adjustment bolt (on the bottom, head facing the rear of the truck), and while it is far tighter than it has any business being, it IS starting to loosen up, one ratchet click at a time. I need to replace this alternator, but can't find anything, anywhere, about how to get the frizzer-frickin thing loose from the smog pump bracket. Please help! Thanks in advance!
The center bolt in the big bracket is the pivot bolt the ALT hangs from. Mine was a major PITA to get out the first time. I put anti-seize compound on the hole bolt before putting it back in.
Make sure the new ALT comes with the integrated power connector and replace the voltage reg connector too. I used male/female blade splice terminals so its easy to slip them art if I ever need to remove the ALT. I also just wired the voltage connector as it came off the old, reg. the new connector has three wires, but only use the same tow. the third just hangs in the air.
If you have a 2G alternator, you should consider an upgrade to a 3G ALT.
It might even be cheaper to buy a new 3G alternator off Amazon then a rebuild 2G at a local auto parts store.
Most 2G replacement alternator will still require sustain rework to the original wiring, so the work load isn't much different.
Info here.
The center bolt in the big bracket is the pivot bolt the ALT hangs from. Mine was a major PITA to get out the first time. I put anti-seize compound on the hole bolt before putting it back in.
Make sure the new ALT comes with the integrated power connector and replace the voltage reg connector too. I used male/female blade splice terminals so its easy to slip them art if I ever need to remove the ALT. I also just wired the voltage connector as it came off the old, reg. the new connector has three wires, but only use the same tow. the third just hangs in the air.
Therein lies the dilemma - there IS no bolt there - just what appears to be a metal tube, possibly a bushing, that runs where that pivot bolt is shown in your picture here. I don't have pictures right now, and won't be able to get them today (I teach school), but I'll try to get something and post it here as soon as I can.
It's that tube/bushing thing that has got me stumped - I've changed out a LOT of alternators in my day, going back to my '72 Gremlin, back in high school days, but I've never seen one like this before. I've accused this alternator setup of being designed by old Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge engineers, because nothing on it makes sense - it's down under everything, the adjustment bolt is on the back side, and there's no pivot bolt at all.
Max has the exact same engine you have. So you should have that bolt shown in the picture. This long bolt in the spacer (spacer is the tube you are referring to) is famous for seizing and breaking off. I bet the bolt is still inside the tube, and the head has been broken off. I think your next move(make sure you have disconnected the battery) is to see if you can take the whole bracket off, with the alternator attached. Then work with it on the bench. I would imagine you are going to have to take a hacksaw or something and try to cut the bolt out of the bracket while trying not to damage the tube (spacer) too much. That bracket is made so heavy from the factory, I suspect the spacer's job is not as important as you would think.
^ you can see the end of the pivot bolt in the back of the bracket in the second photo I posted. I agree, the head on your's must be broken off.
I think you can remove the bracket with the ALT attached, IDK, as I have not done that. "diggerrigger" may know better.
You may have to cut the belt, remove the fan and shroud, radiator to get a 1/2" impact gun in there to break the bolt loss in the head that holds that bracket on. I've looked at that bolt back under the bracket, thinking about taking the bracket off to cut it down like diggerrigger did, but it's not that important to me... if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
You may want to order some Aero-Kroil as it's better than PB Blaster. They say a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone works great too. You need to soften that rust holding the ATL from pivoting.
Last edited by Max Capacity; Dec 12, 2025 at 01:44 PM.
Here's the anti-seize compound, you can get it at any auto parts or hardware store. Walmart may even have it. It's common stuff, I just did a quick web search to show you the stuff.
Looking around for other stuff, I found these photos of the two bolts holding the Air Pump bracket to the block to the left (in photo) of the water pump. Though they are covered in crud.
Max has the exact same engine you have. So you should have that bolt shown in the picture. This long bolt in the spacer (spacer is the tube you are referring to) is famous for seizing and breaking off. I bet the bolt is still inside the tube, and the head has been broken off. I think your next move(make sure you have disconnected the battery) is to see if you can take the whole bracket off, with the alternator attached. Then work with it on the bench. I would imagine you are going to have to take a hacksaw or something and try to cut the bolt out of the bracket while trying not to damage the tube (spacer) too much. That bracket is made so heavy from the factory, I suspect the spacer's job is not as important as you would think.
Well - I tried that - I thought. I can see that one bolt that is on the little "ear", right beside the thermostat housing. Looking at your pictures, am I seeing another one down below it, just behind the alternator? I did remove that first one, with no luck, but never found the second one (I'm having to do this during my after-school hours, which doesn't leave much time before I start losing light).
If I can get the bracket off, I'll figure out a way to get that bolt out. If worst comes to worst, the technical center were I teach has an aviation maintenance program, and the instructor and I are pretty cool with each other - I'll sic him and his tools and machinery on it, I'm guessing he'll make short work of it.
Thank you to everyone who is trying to help me - you guys are awesome! I'll keep you posted.
For that rear facing bolt, Spray it with the fluid, and work it back and forth a little at a time.
Another trick, if you have space, is to hit the head of the breaker bar with a 3lb or 5lb hammer while trying to loosen it, making a homemade impact tool.
I went out to try and get a look under the bracket, but it's windy and 30F here. I did get a better pic of that pivot bolt. You can see some of the anti-seize under the washer.
Last edited by Max Capacity; Dec 12, 2025 at 01:53 PM.
On my 5.8, I had to cut the alternator off the bolt to get it out.
Do you remember any details that would help? Did you take the whole bracket and alternator off or did you work with it on the engine? Did you use a hacksaw or a sawzall or a cut-off wheel?
Its ben a while but I am pretty sure we had the engine out and did it with a cut off wheel. I know we had to section the part of the alternator that the bolt ran through, and I remember we replaced the bolt.
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