I am at a bit of a loass as what to check next after refurbishing most everything from the hub into the brake hoses/hard line). Any pointers would be appreciated. This truck is growing on me and I want to get is sorted.

VEHICLE SPECS
YEAR 1996
MAKE FORD
MODEL F-150 XLT
DRIVE 4WD
CAB STANDARD
TRANS AUTO
BRAKE E 6001-7000LBS (Rear ABS)
LINE/SERIES/BODY/TYPE F14 — F-Series F150 4X4 Regular Cab – Styleside Truck
ENGINE N 8 cy 5.0 Gas MFI (MULTI-PORT fi)
GVWR 6250LB
FRONT GAWR 2950
REAR GAWR 3776
TIRES P235/75R15XL
RIMS 15x7.5J
WHEEL BASE 133
BRAKE B
BODY 564
TRANS U Automatic 4R70W
AXLE 19 Ford 8.8 3.55 non-LS
SPRINGS Front K 5310 spring Rear I 43-1097 supersession 43-965
Leaves: 4 or 3+1, 3" wide
PAINT CODE
MAX TOWING 7100LBS
MAX GCWR 11500LBS
MAXFRNTAL 60SQFT
TRANSFER CASE Borg Warner Model 1356-1 Build K195 Ford Modle Number F5TA-LA (?) Serno 164683 Low 2.69:1

ISSUE/SYMPTOMS

1. When I brake moderately or hard, the truck pulls to the right. (This also happned BEFORE I replaced all the hardware below and was one of two reasons I rebuilt the brakes froint & rear)
2. When I drive at highway speeds, the right/passenger hub gets noticabley warmer/hotter than the driver side.
3. In the past, the right set of pads wore out quickly
4. It is subtle enough a local mechanic could not make it happen or detect it. Kind of obnoxious. I still had him replace the front soft hoses and hard brake line anyway. Yes, I need a smarter local mechanic.

So, I suspect something is causing the passenger side caliper to clamp down more than the driver side. OR the driver side not clamping down at all, which is not likely, as when I bled it at the end, it clamped down on the pads/rotors. But, even when driving mildly around on errands, I notice a tmep difference, even if it is not crazy hot.

I am not sure what the next step ought to be. All the stuff I replaced (see below) needed replacing, it was all a bit of a mess at best, the right pad & rotor were toast, the right caliper looked ugly, and hte right rear brake cylinder was leaking fluid, too. Is there some sort of balancing screw to get right & left biting the same?


HISTORY / WHAT HAS BEEN DONE OR REPLACED

1. Before I replaced anyhting, I flushed brake fluid so old fluid would not have to run through new hardware.
2. also bled/flushed at every corner as I worked, starting from rear passenger side
3. Did final a flush/bleed after all hardware replaced. Yes, I was a bit excessive and pumped a lot of brand new DOT3 trhough my brake lines to be tossed out.

REAR

1. ALL brake hardware replaced on rear drums excpet backplate, to include hard brake line connecting rear brake cylinders to rest of system.
2. Yes, even the nubby pins that the cylinder pushed out into the shoes.
3. The back plate was a wire-brushed blank canvas and got built up.

FRONT

1. Pads
2. Rotors (NAPA Premium, could not get Ultra Premium or NOS Ford/Motorcraft)
3. Clips
4. Calipers (nice rebuilt calipers from NAPA)
5. Soft brake hoses
6. Hard brake line from soft hoses that connect to rest of system.
7. Repacked passenger side wheel bearing as it was good, replaced grease seals
8. Replaced driver side wheel bearing (had red-purple discoloration) & seals, packed with grease.
9. Cleaned and lightly greased up manual Warne locking hubs.

 

That is a lot of irrelevant information so I narrowed it down.

I agree. The driver side brake is not clamping as much as the passenger side which is why it is pulling right. Lightly cleaned and greased the hubs but what about the caliper mounting/slide points?

No. There is no balancing screw for the rear brakes. You adjust rear brakes with the star wheel.

 

i see nothing about part quality, brake fluid condition, and nothing about lubrication on your brakes all around. Nor did I see a torqued wheel bearings/hub in the front. if its overheaed a lot, there could be a difference in coefficient of friction, as in, one might grab much more than the other, esp with different parts. were the brakes EVER bedded in? reverse as fast as you can and report what direction the truck goes, if any.

 

New does not mean good.

Get a IR temperature gun. See if the left/right temperatures are similar. Typically, a caliper is seized and causes the pads to drag. This is why its hot. Yes, a caliper can be seized and it won't press on the rotor, but with as much force a hydraulic system can apply, typically, it will overcome any binding but the piston does not retract back into the caliper.

 

If the right front hub is warm, the right front caliper's dragging.

full stop.

pun intended.

The pads being warmer will make it 'bite' harder, thus causing it to pull.

I have been resealing my own calipers with quality (Raybestos seems to still be OK)
parts for decades now, as 'remanufactured' tends to not work out so well for me.

t