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At 67K I noticed an oil leak during an oil change. I took it in and it turns out to be the upper oil pan. Looked on YouTube to see what was involved in this operation and was surprised at how involved it is. Glad it’s covered under warranty.
my question is how common is this? I’d hate to have to take care of it on my dime.
I think it was a bad design mistake to have the transmission bolt to the oil pan. If weren't for this design, removing the oil pan would have been a reasonable job that most folks could do in their garage or the labor cost to do this at a shop would be a lot less.
Seams to be too common on the engines with the silicone perimeter seal like your '19. Some have recommended to go with a '11-'13 oil pan with a gasket seal.
At 67K I noticed an oil leak during an oil change. I took it in and it turns out to be the upper oil pan. Looked on YouTube to see what was involved in this operation and was surprised at how involved it is. Glad it’s covered under warranty.
my question is how common is this? I’d hate to have to take care of it on my dime.
I had this and it was covered under warranty.
youtube and forums say this is cuased by a clogged CCV filter.
some CCV years have filters and some dont.
check unto this and if you have a CCV filter best would be to convert it to a model year ccv that has no filter...uses baffles instead of filters
Yeah. Mine has the baffles in the ccv. I did the oil cap test and while there was no dramatic ‘pop’ when the cap released, it was clear that steam (or something) was flowing straight up & out from the filler. At what point in this test do you conclude that there’s a blockage in the ccv line?
Yeah. Mine has the baffles in the ccv. I did the oil cap test and while there was no dramatic ‘pop’ when the cap released, it was clear that steam (or something) was flowing straight up & out from the filler. At what point in this test do you conclude that there’s a blockage in the ccv line?
Not sure, here is a thread about it, and there used to be a sensor and pid you could monitor, but Ford dropped it about the time the AlumniDuty came out.
Pressure will peak at full boost and full load, so if you do put a gauge on it have a way to monitor it while driving if you want to see max pressure.
Depending on your feelings/warranty status there are plenty of options to remove and or replace the OEM CCV system that can either remain closed, or vent to the atmosphere.
my question is how common is this? I’d hate to have to take care of it on my dime.
This is very common on the 14-19's. There has been a rumor going around that the bot that did the silicone from the factory did not apply the silicone correctly in the corners of the pan. It's most likely a design flaw that why the 20's and up go back to an actual gasket like the 11-13's.
I had mine done twice while under warranty once at 20k and again at 44k. I think the tech that made the repair didn't do a proper job the first time around. It's not due to crankcase pressure because I have the baffle type CCV, those with the serviceable CCV could be at risk of this failure due to excessive crankcase pressure.
This is way to much! Arod shows what normal crankcase pressure looks at the end.
At 67K I noticed an oil leak during an oil change. I took it in and it turns out to be the upper oil pan. Looked on YouTube to see what was involved in this operation and was surprised at how involved it is. Glad it’s covered under warranty.
my question is how common is this? I’d hate to have to take care of it on my dime.
I think with some years it's not if but when it will leak. Seems to be that common.
In some cases a clogged CCV filter might contribute to, or accelerate the leak, but I don't believe it's a leading cause. So many of these trucks have the filterless CCV and still get the upper oil pan leak. Like yours. Even the 2020+, with a gasket, are still getting upper oil pan leaks.
I was getting some seeping in the corners and I had the "filter less" CCV box. Vented the crank case to atmosphere cleaned the upper pan areas and no more seeping yet. I feel that the closed system will cause issues at full throttle full load due to cylinder pressure induced blow by and the fact that boost in the intake tract closes the valve between the CCV box and the intake, which is why when the oil fill cap doesn't seem to have pressure at idle we see leaks at the upper pan and sometimes the front and or rear crank shaft seals. Just my opinion and I will need several more thousand miles before I have any anecdotal evidence to back up this opinion.
I was getting some seeping in the corners and I had the "filter less" CCV box. Vented the crank case to atmosphere cleaned the upper pan areas and no more seeping yet. I feel that the closed system will cause issues at full throttle full load due to cylinder pressure induced blow by and the fact that boost in the intake tract closes the valve between the CCV box and the intake, which is why when the oil fill cap doesn't seem to have pressure at idle we see leaks at the upper pan and sometimes the front and or rear crank shaft seals. Just my opinion and I will need several more thousand miles before I have any anecdotal evidence to back up this opinion.
Did you just dump the hose from the CCV box into the engine bay and cap the port on the intake?
I was looking at the CCV reroute that Pusher sells. The OEM CCV box stays, their kit simply adapts a hose to the CCV hose. Curious to know if there is smoke, smell or oil from the CCV hose. What has me interested is how easy it would be to revert to stock prior to smog test.
Did you just dump the hose from the CCV box into the engine bay and cap the port on the intake?
I was looking at the CCV reroute that Pusher sells. The OEM CCV box stays, their kit simply adapts a hose to the CCV hose. Curious to know if there is smoke, smell or oil from the CCV hose. What has me interested is how easy it would be to revert to stock prior to smog test.
I used the SPE kit with the internal "catch can", and ran the hose under the drivers door outside the frame. I am happy so far but do expect it to drip eventually, I will likely put a catch can on the end of the hose at some point.
I used the SPE kit with the internal "catch can", and ran the hose under the drivers door outside the frame. I am happy so far but do expect it to drip eventually, I will likely put a catch can on the end of the hose at some point.
Oh ok, I'm familiar with that kit and would consider if it if I wasn't in CA. I was hoping you might have just pulled the CCV box tube and had some feedback on it. So far I haven't ran into any posts from owners who have done that, or used the Pusher reroute.
Mines done this since new, i just spray it off with brake clean every oil change. My 2022 is at 108k and it’s not too much worse. It could be a rear main but you have to commit to getting cab pulled cause when they pull the tranny and there’s no leak their going to pull cab. I have no desire to get involved with a cab pull right now for a little bleed. I’ll get it fixed ( i have 150k warranty) before i trade it later this year.
