6.0 sounds like it wants to start
#1
6.0 sounds like it wants to start
Hey y’all. New question for smart people. I have 6.0. 2004 started sat idling for about 2 minutes. It shut off. Has not started since. I have not purchased scan tool yet but when I crank it it sounds like it wants to fire. Almost starts but doesn’t. I unplugged the icp and it will start right up with no problem but in about a second or maybe 2 it shuts down again. I believe I have read about others running after unplugging icp. Any ideas? Should it continue to run after start with icp unplugged?
#2
Check the oil level.
What are ambient temps where your at? Have you tried plugging the block heater in for a few hours?
It should at least idle with the ICP unplugged if that is the issue.
When you get Forscan post some #s. ICP, IPRv, Ficm voltage, sync, cranking RPM etc...
While your waiting put a battery charger on it and confirm you have good battery connections everywhere.
A voltage drop test across all battery connections would be a good idea as well.
What are ambient temps where your at? Have you tried plugging the block heater in for a few hours?
It should at least idle with the ICP unplugged if that is the issue.
When you get Forscan post some #s. ICP, IPRv, Ficm voltage, sync, cranking RPM etc...
While your waiting put a battery charger on it and confirm you have good battery connections everywhere.
A voltage drop test across all battery connections would be a good idea as well.
#3
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#5
Yes, it should operate normally under a calcualted ICP. I drove mine several weeks with it unplugged with no issues waiting to get a new sensor.
You have a different issue, but ForScan will help get it sorted.
You have a different issue, but ForScan will help get it sorted.
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#6
Ambient temp
Check the oil level.
What are ambient temps where your at? Have you tried plugging the block heater in for a few hours?
It should at least idle with the ICP unplugged if that is the issue.
When you get Forscan post some #s. ICP, IPRv, Ficm voltage, sync, cranking RPM etc...
While your waiting put a battery charger on it and confirm you have good battery connections everywhere.
A voltage drop test across all battery connections would be a good idea as well.
What are ambient temps where your at? Have you tried plugging the block heater in for a few hours?
It should at least idle with the ICP unplugged if that is the issue.
When you get Forscan post some #s. ICP, IPRv, Ficm voltage, sync, cranking RPM etc...
While your waiting put a battery charger on it and confirm you have good battery connections everywhere.
A voltage drop test across all battery connections would be a good idea as well.
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#8
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#10
Thanks a lot I’ll be sure to look over there. While I’m waiting on FORScan. In the mean time I’ve had block heater plugged in rather nice day also. Batteries fully charged so I figured I’d give it a crank. Still no start but it still tries. In my warped gasoline engine head I’m leaning on electrical just because I can smell fuel after cranking and if I unplug Icp it starts immediately. Although it shuts right off but starts. Sorry just a lot going on in my head while I wait on obd ex for FORScan.
#11
#13
#14
So first I will apologize for not knowing how to work this forum. Anyhow here we go. I believe I loaded pic of forscan dtc’s but couldn’t get video up of live cranking data.
1. ficm~Lpwr,v11.50
2. Ficm~vpwr,v 11.50
3. Ficm~mpwr,v 47.00
4. Icp,v 0.26
5. Icp,psi 7.9
While cranking
1. = 10.50
2. = 10.50
3. = 46.50
4. = 1.30
5. = 1036.8
6. Icp-des,psi =926.9
7. Ipr%= 36.72
8. Rpm 214 1 min.
ficm sync and cam crank sync fluctuate back and forth while cranking between yes and no.
1. ficm~Lpwr,v11.50
2. Ficm~vpwr,v 11.50
3. Ficm~mpwr,v 47.00
4. Icp,v 0.26
5. Icp,psi 7.9
While cranking
1. = 10.50
2. = 10.50
3. = 46.50
4. = 1.30
5. = 1036.8
6. Icp-des,psi =926.9
7. Ipr%= 36.72
8. Rpm 214 1 min.
ficm sync and cam crank sync fluctuate back and forth while cranking between yes and no.
#15
Yup. Low batteries or bad connection. The clicking is the voltage dropping enough for the starter relay to drop out, then the voltage recovers and re-engages the relay. In other applications I call it ratcheting.
My diesels will do that on a low battery or single good battery. A bad connection or cable can do it also.
I'm going to again suggest checking all connections and doing a voltage drop test.
I'd also pull, recharge, and load test the batteries.
My diesels will do that on a low battery or single good battery. A bad connection or cable can do it also.
I'm going to again suggest checking all connections and doing a voltage drop test.
I'd also pull, recharge, and load test the batteries.
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