I’ve been searching quite a bit and can’t find a manufacturer of the replacement crew cab rear floor pans for my 1986 F350.

Can some one steer me to the right place?

Thank you,

Jason

 

I doubt anyone makes them. You will have to make them yourself. Eyeball the front pan section. Can you buy the front ones and cut them up to patch what you need for the rear? As you probably know already, crew cabs are hard to find. If there isn't any demand for repair parts, the part suppliers are not going to go to the trouble to manufacture them.

 

Any pictures of what you ended up doing with your crew cab? Mine is a rot box and I have a feeling I'll be making bits and pieces to patch it all together. I'm hesitant to tear into it but I need to do something soon or I won't have much of a template left.

 

Are you picky and want it to look totally original and look like it was never rusted? Or just something functional to reinforce the floor and keep it on the road? If it's the second choice, I am certain you could come up with something if you had some fab skills. The repair method that requires the least skill and tools, and works well and looks good is fiberglass matt. Even if you have some holes and really thin areas, putting layers of fiberglass matt over it will make it strong again. Then a little paint and it will look surprisingly good. and be sealed at the same time.

 

Not that picky, it's just an old truck but I'd also like it to be my last truck. I don't care about concours correct floor pans that nobody but me will see but I want it to be solid and last. In that regard fiberglass is unacceptable, as it seems to eventually fail and accelerate rust. I'd wager I'm also a better (less bad) metal artist than fiberglass artist.

I have done some mediocre metal work and fab, currently patching up a '66 Thunderbird trunk and subframe rails. Fortunately most of what's rotted on that is available and the worst of what isn't is I have a line on some much better metal.

Making entire crew cab floor pans, or at least all out outer/lower/side parts will be challenging for me given the compound bends and complex bead roll shapes to add rigidity. I can probably make whatever ribs or beads however is convenient and be good enough though.

A peek at what I'm starting with... The worst is the first picture driver side front. PO did a quick and dirty with bondo/epoxy/etc. instead of metal which I think accelerated rust. B pillars are gone at the bottom, not sure where that water was coming from. The Z channel bracing the floor pans outside of the frame rail might be tedious to make. No repops I can find even for regular cabs. Any raw stock that works well for this? Maybe just a similar size C channel? Or just bend sheet metal to shape, I figure V notch whatever I can get or make to approximate the curve of the floor pan and still add bracing. Any idea what gauge floor pans were on these? 20ga? 18ga?

 

WOW there is not a lot left to that truck you must love it a lot!

The way I would look at it everything in the front part of the cab should be the same as a reg cab truck: floors and the door posts front & rear.
Rockers you may need to use 2 per side to get it covered.

The rear door posts may be the same as the front so need to look them over to see if that is true.
Now the rear floor pans will take some work to figure out.
I have not seen or looked over a crew cab rear floor so dont know the shape.
Maybe look at Chevy if any one makes them for that crew cab and might be able to make them work?

Or with all of todays 4 door pick up trucks & crew cabs maybe you can find something that will work as I cant see the floors being all that different just the outside sheet metal.
Again I dont know the crew floor maybe a cars rear or even the front floor could be made to work?
Using something that is close would be better as it would be maybe half the work to get it to fit.
My .02
Dave ----

 

All that in the picture below, if that is beside the front seat, is available from the edge of the seat, all the way out to the outer edge.

 

Here you can see the full floor (un cut), the filler DaveF said about. rocker, rear doorpost & cab corner (both cut down as I did not want to go up that high with either).

Again not knowing what the rear floor area looks like I cant point you to anything other than what I posted above.
Dave ----

ps forgot about the weather strip lip and I used sheet metal to the rear of the black panel

 

I have an extra crew cab her I was saving for another project. passenger side front is rotted but back is good. was an 85 or 86 truck I cant remember. I will try to get pics.

 

So it begins. It's long past time. Front driver cab mount is gone with remnants flapping in the wind, rear passenger side cab mount has rotted through the crossmember.

I'm not sure where to start. At first I was thinking passenger side since there's more there to work with but when I saw the driver side cab mount is gone I think I might be better starting there with cab mount and floor pan. Rockers need replaced too so I'm unsure how to support the front of the cab to raise it a bit off the frame. Thoughts?

The other issue is the craw cab front mounts are unique in that there is additional bracing on the mount. Passenger side this is intact enough that I should be able to remove it, patch, and install on the new mount before installing on the cab. Driver side is just gone. I don't have any way to accurately bend that thick of metal to replicate the brace. Anyone have a parts truck with this part relatively intact? Failing that I'll probably just use the regular cab mount with a spacer to keep it same height as passenger side, after all this cab mount must have been flapping in the breeze for a while now.

Driver side:


Passenger side:



The floor pans themselves seem like they'll be relatively straightforward. I'll have to make pieces for driver side front and some of the rear. The rear side pieces that tie into the rocker should be able to use the same part as for the front, just trimmed and bent a bit to fit the slightly different rear pan.




Front driver side will need extra bits make. Fun fact: the driver seat belt was just for show. Did a 17 hour drive towing two weeks ago, fortunately uneventful and the truck did fine.




B pillars are gone at the bottom. The rear half of the rocker is the same length as a regular cab but stamped with a bend to clear the rear door opening. I have lower half of B pillars cut off another truck with a bit of rocker panel forward and rear, so should be able to use that section spliced into the new rocker. Front half of the rocker appears same as a regular cab, just cut a little shorter.



I'm a little overwhelmed after getting everything apart and some of the loose bits cleaned up. I think I'll feel better once I figure out how to support the driver side cab front and start cutting.

 

WOW do you have your work cut out for you.

Have you bought any replacement panel yet if not Tabco.com is who I got my panels from and was vary happy with them.

I dont really know how I would go about it as yours is a lot worst them mine was as I still had the mounts so it was just the floor pans the mounts are welded to.
I guess the floors & rockers would have to be the first because without them you have nothing to mount the cab mounts to.
I just hope you have enough of the old metal left to show how the pans get installed because if they are off the mounts will be off too.

What I did to mine, the cab was off the frame but I have a regular can not a crew.
How can you get to everything with the cab on the frame?
Dave ----

 

If you can't bend a custom panel, fabricate it out of two or 3 pieces. Here's a video, this guy does it all the time and makes it look good.

 

I have all the panels from Tabco I ordered back when I started this thread. I ordered another set of the side pieces to patch the side of seat base to rocker section of the back floor. That's about it for what's available. Good to hear the quality is there. They seem ok at a glance but hard to tell fitment before I start cutting to be able to get them exactly where they will go.

I was staring at it for a while thinking about order of operations. I was originally stuck on drilling out spot welds for cab mounts from below, but that was silly I can just drill the thin floor pans from above where I have plenty of access, and air chisel between mounts and rockers. They should drop out pretty easy then. I'm now thinking first cut driver side floor pan out to fit new. I'll just leave a flange to plug weld and seam seal. Then remove cab mount, leaving rocker in place. Install new cab mount next, welding to floor pan at front/high spot. Then install driver front floor pan and make patches for what it doesn't cover. I'd pre-drill along rocker on both parts for plug welds to the rocker panel. Then I'd have a more robust floor pan and cab mount that may support itself with minimal flex and I can remove and replace the driver side rocker.

Fitzee is great, I've watched some of his videos before. I can work reasonably well with thinner metal, but thicker like cab mounts I have no way to bend. I now recall watching a video where a guy cut half the thickness of some thicker plate, bent it, and welded where he bent. That might work to try to emulate the extra crew cab mount bracing. At least I have a template from the passenger side I can try to mirror.

Most difficult parts I've made so far have been cowl patches and convertible drain gutter for a 64 Falcon. I think they came out serviceable for parts you'll never see. Doesn't look like much but it was pretty tough to get right for an amateur like myself.

 

Does Tabco have the front cab mount parts?
I am sure someone does as you have enough work to do with out needing to make the mounts too.
Dave ----

 

Water over the dam now, but I wonder if you could have ordered Mustang cowl repair pieces and modified them to work? People think all the Ford front floorboards on those old cars are rotted out from salt underneath, but most are rotted from that cowl piece you fixed.