So it has been years since I have posted anything on this, I am on the younger side (25 years old) but I have since I was 16 years old been broke basically other than a brief few years there where I got into newer trucks, and didn’t bother with even thinking of this stuff anymore. But times changes and I face a lot of legal fines, so even tho I make money, I’m broke again and fuel prices are on the rise again

I wanted to make a post about how I burn this stuff and my history with it and the issues Iv ran into to hopefully spread some info on something needing to save money

first of all, get those big white totes that carry oil in them, they make great settling tanks, you can just pump off the top, or drain the bottom 10% or so. If you heat the stuff on a hot summer day with a basic bucket heater most of the soot, metals, garbage and water will fall to bottom in hours, in winter time, just give a couple of weeks.

next make sure you have a truck that will burn it well, any heui so a 7.3 or a 6.0 work great. Currently have a 6.0 that’s doing this. Putting a hotter tune on them helps to burn any carbon build up, mainly work them hard lug it up a hill once in a while with a trailer if possible. Had a 7.3 I out 30k on like that with original injectors at 210k on the clock when it got totaled. Mechanical injection like the IDI work ok… but. They require lower fuel pressure into the injection pump which causes issues with the basic fuel filter. We could modify the crap out of it but this to save money not spend it. Heui or 12v Cummins work great with a p pump. They used 45+ fuel pressure to the injection pump so never had issues there either.

next is the filtering…. Much easier than make it out to be. If you are not trying to push your luck on how strong you can make your mix. 50/50 with diesel. Has never failed me. And if you are using a heui truck, don’t use gas to thin. It will cause vapor lock in the heads. No way around it. If you run it in the winter might get away with. I never did. I use a basic sock style filter from McMaster carr that cost like 27 bucks and filters to 1 micron. Hang it in a barrel with a removable lid, use 5 gallon buckets to pour mix diesel and oil in, to a 50/50 mix, pour through filter into barrel, than a diaphragm pump my work threw out , to pump it into the tru k.

do use anti gel in the diesel, it will still gel up when mixed

be careful what you take. Some newish looking oil will hold water in suspension very well and will only fall out when compressed…. Like in your fuel filters… if it’s suspicious, has lots of water, or coolant, or lots of gear oil don’t take it. Doesn’t matter how dirty it is, burnt oil burns easier, they are partially broken down hydrocarbons so ignition is easier now. But gear oil in large amounts is bad, to thick period.

remeber if you are gonna invest money… it might just be easier to buy fuel. Take time find junkyard finds like tots barrels, pumps to move this stuff. Silly to spend lots of money on it.

anothwr big take away is, if you have a metal fuel tank, it has rust it in, the oil will strip it and clog your fuel filter first fill up. Don’t be alarmed be prepared and keep an extra set of filters in the truck.

if you get water in the truck, it will clog your fuel filters not much to do besides replace them.

lastly just use common sense, clean the house and barrels that are using “cleaned” oil in so you don’t get containments now I’m the clean oil. And work the truck hard, get that heat in there will burn excessive soot off from the turbo vanes, and in combustion chamber. All and all, I have probably done 60k or so total miles and other than learning curves, no major issues. No failed injectors, have torn down some of these engines. No excessive coking. I would also change oil regularly or at-least do oil testing to make sure you are not dirtying up the oil too fast and maybe need to change sooner than normal. I will be doing oil testing on the 6.0 with 5k miles now of waste oil burning with 185k on the clock. It’s down at the moment for a drive shaft should only be a few weeks til I do the testing.

ask a at any questions all and all works great saves lots of money

 

Hi,

I have an IDI .... you seem to think it won't do as well with WMO as a power stroke ?

I NEED to save some $$ since diesel is about $4.799 here

Thanks

 

I didn’t say it wouldn’t work, just not the easiest.


this fuel pump is what I used to run my old 93 I had. It worked well for me. I plumbed it up in the engine bay after making a bracket to hang it from the alternator. It is designed to create a lot of vacuum to pull fuel. Not push too much. So it worked great for the set up. The mechanical pump sucks for thicker fuels.

Keep it simple half and half with diesel. And pour through a sock filter I can work on the part number from McMaster carr too for ya. Also, it dosent pressurize the fuel as high it will smoke. And change your oil because it will get used up faster from the high acid content in the fuel. Every 4-5k atleast.

 

Great information, thanks! I used to run WMO in my 99' F350. I never had any problems with it. I also ran it in several old dozers I had. I'm currently thinking of trying to run it again in my 5.9 cummins and possibly in my skidsteer with the diesel prices being so high. I just don't have my filter setup anymore. I'd like to build a centrifuge to clean it.