1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

'55 F-100 239CU

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 03-24-2019, 07:32 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
'55 F-100 239CU

First let me introduce myself, 54 years old, living in the Netherlands, owning a '55 F-100 239CU since 1994, it has been takin' apart in 1995 for a quick rebuild. Ordered all new sealings, grommets, side window kits etc. And then..... Busy, busy, busy, so the truck project was put on hold for a few years, 18 years to be precise, just to the point where i finally got the time and a brand new garage with room to spare, including a automotive bridge.
So i went on and gave the truck another shot and then..... Busy, busy, busy, fast forward 5 years and we are on the right track again. This time determined to finish the job and having fun while doing it.

That works like a charm, replaced the front drum brakes with Disc Brakes, replaced the steering box for a power steering box, added belt, pully etc, it begins to look like a truck again, well at least the chassis is looking nice.

So far so good, nothing special, replaced the waterpump, a bit difficult to find the high mount waterpump, but believe it or not, i found it just overhere in the Netherlands! Furthermore replaced the inner works of the radiator, replaced all the fluids and a few weeks ago we attempted to start up the truck and law and behold, it fired up!! 22 years after it last run, it just started up! Next on the list, replace starter solenoid, no problems so far, all the needed parts are widely available via the internet, CPP for brake and steering, Midfifty for a lot of other things.

All is well over here or????

Well, as the moment approaches to get the cab on the chassis again i'm looking into the drivetrain.
The engine is good enough for me, it was running and it is still running but, i'm looking at my gearbox.
It is a 3 speed manual with overdrive and here it puzzles me...
I cannot remember that i even used the overdrive and i don't know how to.
I do have a cable with a 'grip' on it marked 'overdrive' and that cables runs to the gearbox but.... i also see something on the gearbox which looks too me like a solenoid.... and on the other side some also sort of electrical box is placed, no idea what to think of that.
So could anyone from you guys help out a European F-100 owner? Although there are quit a few F-100's overhere, there's in no way as much knowledge as there is on this forum.
Yes i do have a workshop manual but i find that not always very helpful since some bits and pieces on my truck seem to be different than in the manual. E.G. the gearbox, the gearbox in the manual is a square box kind of thing where my gearbox is more long and sleek....

i took a few pictures from the numbers on the gearbox and the 'solenoid'




. Can anyone tell me exact what i have and how it works?
 
  #2  
Old 03-24-2019, 07:43 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
And on to the next question.....

I needed to replace my fuel pump, i did get a new pump but that is not the right one.
Does anyone know the part numbers of the original pump?


 
  #3  
Old 03-24-2019, 05:03 PM
BlueOvalRage's Avatar
BlueOvalRage
BlueOvalRage is offline
Cargo Master

Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Oxford, Indiana
Posts: 2,571
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts
You have the optional 3 speed with Borg Warner R10 overdrive transmission. The first item you pictured on the left side of the transmission is the solenoid that engages the overdrive gear. The second item on the right side is the governor. The governor keeps the overdrive from engaging until the truck reaches 27-28 MPH and cuts it back out when vehicle speed drops to near 20 MPH. The cable on the dash mechanically locks out the overdrive portion of the transmission. In addition to these components, there should also be a switch under the throttle pedal and a relay mounted on the firewall.

You can find wiring diagrams, operator manuals, and a wealth of other information all over the internet. Simply Google “Borg Warner R10 overdrive” and you will find yourself reading for hours. It’s a great transmission and I know you’ll love it when you get it working correctly. Enjoy!
 
  #4  
Old 03-24-2019, 05:30 PM
Harrier's Avatar
Harrier
Harrier is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Jefferson City, MO
Posts: 8,730
Received 764 Likes on 374 Posts
Welcome to FTE! We would love to see pictures of your truck. Well more pictures since you started off with pictures, which is great!

The first fuel pump picture is partially black, so I can't see it all for some reason.
The new fuel pump looks to be the correct one for a truck y-block. Do you have a car engine? I don't know much about those.
Can we see a picture of your engine?
Here is a thread on fuel pumps on Y-blocks. Number Dummy is the expert on Ford truck parts.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...1954-55-a.html

Here is the important info of that thread:
Original 1955 Ford 239 fuel pump part number: B5C-9350-A >> Replaced by >> B6C-9350-A >> replaced by >> B8C-9350-A >>Replaced by >> C3TZ-9350-B >> Replaced by >> D2TZ-9350-A (whew!!)


Therefore the SAME fuel pump fits F100/350: 1955 thru 1964 239, 256, 272 and 292 Y blocks.

AND....

1965/72 F100/350 352/360/390 FE engines, and 1964/72 330/361/391 FT engines.
 
  #5  
Old 03-25-2019, 01:03 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by BlueOvalRage
You have the optional 3 speed with Borg Warner R10 overdrive transmission. The first item you pictured on the left side of the transmission is the solenoid that engages the overdrive gear. The second item on the right side is the governor. The governor keeps the overdrive from engaging until the truck reaches 27-28 MPH and cuts it back out when vehicle speed drops to near 20 MPH. The cable on the dash mechanically locks out the overdrive portion of the transmission. In addition to these components, there should also be a switch under the throttle pedal and a relay mounted on the firewall.

You can find wiring diagrams, operator manuals, and a wealth of other information all over the internet. Simply Google “Borg Warner R10 overdrive” and you will find yourself reading for hours. It’s a great transmission and I know you’ll love it when you get it working correctly. Enjoy!
THANKS! I will dive into Google.I did find a switch in the basket but that does not seem to work (it seems stuck). I will place a picture of both.
Can you enlighten me in the working of the overdrive? Does the cable in effect do the same thing as the solenoid? That is, engaging the overdrive? And when engaged, what does it do?

questions, question.... Thanks for your help!
 
  #6  
Old 03-25-2019, 01:06 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Harrier
Welcome to FTE! We would love to see pictures of your truck. Well more pictures since you started off with pictures, which is great!

The first fuel pump picture is partially black, so I can't see it all for some reason.
The new fuel pump looks to be the correct one for a truck y-block. Do you have a car engine? I don't know much about those.
Can we see a picture of your engine?
Here is a thread on fuel pumps on Y-blocks. Number Dummy is the expert on Ford truck parts.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...1954-55-a.html
Thanks for your help!

Hmm, that seems a local problem, the picture is clear on the forum..The old pump loos a lot like the new pump but the new pump is way bigger and the rod sticking out of the pump has a different size and shape, so this will not fit. (in one of the pictures both pumps are on 1 picture.)

Originally Posted by Harrier
Here is the important info of that thread:
Original 1955 Ford 239 fuel pump part number: B5C-9350-A >> Replaced by >> B6C-9350-A >> replaced by >> B8C-9350-A >>Replaced by >> C3TZ-9350-B >> Replaced by >> D2TZ-9350-A (whew!!)

Therefore the SAME fuel pump fits F100/350: 1955 thru 1964 239, 256, 272 and 292 Y blocks.

AND....

1965/72 F100/350 352/360/390 FE engines, and 1964/72 330/361/391 FT engines.
Great! I will dive into that part.

Will keep you posted on the progress.

 
  #7  
Old 03-25-2019, 05:58 AM
pintoplumber's Avatar
pintoplumber
pintoplumber is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lititz PA
Posts: 1,930
Received 554 Likes on 266 Posts
You have an early 239. The fuel pump has a straight arm. The later y blocks had the bent arm. Airtex 4070 is a replacement but doesn’t have a glass bowl. Any fuel pump with the bent arm won’t work for you. Dennis
 
  #8  
Old 03-25-2019, 11:20 AM
BlueOvalRage's Avatar
BlueOvalRage
BlueOvalRage is offline
Cargo Master

Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Oxford, Indiana
Posts: 2,571
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts
Originally Posted by seef
THANKS! I will dive into Google.I did find a switch in the basket but that does not seem to work (it seems stuck). I will place a picture of both.
Can you enlighten me in the working of the overdrive? Does the cable in effect do the same thing as the solenoid? That is, engaging the overdrive? And when engaged, what does it do?

questions, question.... Thanks for your help!
The Borg Warner R10 and R11 overdrives will basically give a standard 3 speed transmission two more useable gears that are automatically shifted. The overdrive ratio is .70:1. This reduces fuel consumption and noise and also extends engine life. Under normal operation, it will make your 3 speed manual operate as if it has an automatically shifted 4th gear.

When you pull the cable, the entire overdrive mechanism in the rear of the transmission is locked out and will not function. In this condition, the transmission will drive and act just like any other standard column-shifted 3 speed. This is mostly only useful for downhill grades, towing and parking. With the cable pushed in and the overdrive enabled, you leave a stop in 1st gear, accelerate through it as normal and then shift into 2nd gear. At some point while accelerating through 2nd gear, vehicle speed will increase past 27 MPH and the governor will enable the overdrive system. When you have accelerated through 2nd and are ready to shift in to the next gear, simply lift your foot off of the throttle and you will feel a light clunk as the overdrive engages. Put your foot back in the throttle and continue to accelerate through 2nd overdrive. If you're on the highway and need more speed, make the next manual shift into 3rd. The overdrive will stay engaged and you will then be in 3rd overdrive. This is an excellent highway gear. Mashing the throttle to the floor will press the switch under the throttle and the overdrive unit will automatically disengage to give you more power for passing. It feels exactly like the kickdown of an automatic transmission when you mash the throttle. As you slow down when stopping, the governor will disable the overdrive somewhere around 22 MPH.

There is a little more to it than this, but as I mentioned, through Google you can find the original operating and repair manuals and much other information already written. There are videos on youTube also.
 
  #9  
Old 03-26-2019, 06:29 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Dennis,

Thanks for your reply, this will help me to find a new fuelpump!

Thanks for your support!
 
  #10  
Old 03-26-2019, 06:36 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by BlueOvalRage

There is a little more to it than this, but as I mentioned, through Google you can find the original operating and repair manuals and much other information already written. There are videos on youTube also.
Thanks for your explanation on how this nifty piece of mechanical art works. All new to me!

I already did some googling and found a neat website (https://www.enginebuildermag.com/201...transmissions/) which does help a bit.
I need to check out the solenoid, switch and govenor.
As stated it seems the switch is stuck, that's not a big deal since is easily replaceable. The next thing is the solenoid, i'm very curious to see if this still works.
As i bought the truck in 94/95 i did not knew there was a overdrive in it and furthermore is was converted to 12 volts but it seems there's nowwhere somesort of transformer from 12 to 6 volt for the special parts. So i do jhope the solenoid did not got an overload in volts and decided to trown in the towel. The replacement of the solenoid is possible but expensive.
And then there is the governor, it has an electrical connection but is there a way to test it?

I'm on my way to order a switch and manual from midfifty but it takes some time to get it delevered overhere in the Netherlands....

Your help is appriciated very much!
 
  #11  
Old 03-28-2019, 01:30 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Look what i've found in the basket.......

Well, that's the good news, switch is stuck, i dripped in some JB80 to see if it comes loose and i yet need to test the relay.....

Still have 1 question left, i want to test the electrical parts, i know how to test the solenoid, i know how to te=st a relais but how do i test if the governor is still doing its job?

Picture: The switch and relais.....


 
  #12  
Old 03-31-2019, 10:34 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well, i tested the solenoid, forst on 6 volts, no go and after that i tested on 12V and again no go.....
So it seems the solenoid is toast.....

Since the solenoid is very expensive to replace i thinking about going forward without it and thus without the overdrive,. It's a shame but i can always replace the solenoid later on.

I'm feeling a little bit sad.....

The good news is that i got a new fuel pump and this time it's the right one. Happy, happy,, happy! Exactly the same as original, with the glass bowl, i'm happy, happy, happy.
 
  #13  
Old 04-21-2019, 05:48 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Meanwhile in the Netherlands.....

We finished the engine work, replaced all fluids and so we decided to put the cabin back in it's original position.
We did that with the help of an engine hoist and 2 ladies.....
It took a few hours but the cabin has landed!!

So on with the next job, installing the wiring. The old harness was toast and whipping out a load of cash for a new harness is not my style.

So i'm on the hunt for a good wiring diagram, nothing fancy just basic stuff, 12 Volts. Can anybody point my to a place where i can find such a thing?

My next question is, can anybody point me in the right direction on what amp circuit breakers need to use for the starter solenoid? I really don't have a clue on that one.
Do you guys use a 'master' circuit breaker for the whole system? Between the battery and the rest of the system or is the placement of circuit breakers on every circuit sufficient? I will be installing a master switch under the dash so i cab cutoff all power instantly.

Oh yeah, pictures of placing the cabin will follow shortly, my camera is not home yet....

Any help will be appreciated!
 
  #14  
Old 04-22-2019, 03:28 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The pictures!


Cabin in the hoist, measuring the "flight hight"

Cabin in "free flight"


Almost there

The cabine has landed


As you can see we used an engine hoist, thanks to the ' How did you place your cabin" thread i stumbled upon somewhere in this forum.

On to the next job and problem.
 
  #15  
Old 04-22-2019, 03:48 AM
seef's Avatar
seef
seef is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
There are times i cannot get around and do any work on the truck and then there are times i do time on my hands.... Such a time was this friday and saturday.

We placed the cabin but we did ran in another challenge. When i arrived in the garage my eye fell on oil spills on the floor under the truck.
At first i thought i would be a seal leaking but closer inspecting did not show that but it showed oil was leaking from a tine hole on the passenger side of the overdrive/transmission.

Below are some pictures of it.


overview transmission/overdrive

Transmission/overdrive hole pointed out


So it looks a screw hole but as far as i can see there is no thread in it. It does not seem to be perfectly round either.

What i did discover was that the oil level in the transmission was still at the right hight. For the overdrive it was not. So i refilled the overdrive with oil and watched if it started leaking again and sure it did. So it seems the hole is draining the overdrive which, in mho is not a good thing....

Does anyone has a clue what is going on here?

Your help will be much appreciated...
 


Quick Reply: '55 F-100 239CU



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:37 AM.