Ok so I got my home brew e-fuel conversion complete today. Cranked it up and adjusted the regulator to 70psi at idle. Runs great, no issues at all while idling. Take it out for a spin and it's a dog. No power and wants to stall when I stop. I have no way of knowing what the pressure is while driving. No leaks. I'm at a loss as to what the problem is. Anybody got any ideas?

 

You need to rig up a gauge of some sort to see what the psi is under load. What pump are you using?

 

Dual SD pumps, aeromotive pressure regulator

 

Tried cranking again late last night. Truck would crank and again idle great but took forever to actually start. Air in the lines? Or bigger issue?

 

What fuel pressure do you have when just key on and when at idle?
What temp was it last night?

You could have air in the lines and can take a good run to purge it out.

get a 100 PSI gauge and a long grease gun hose to extend it out of the hood to take on a test run

 

How is the home-brew system plumbed in? How are the pumps powered ON? Almost sounds like when going down the road the pumps are loosing power. Are you using an oil pressure switch to keep the pumps running? On two systems I've installed (single pump) I just jumpered the pump plus terminal to battery positive and you could hear the pump running, air purging thru the lines and it took maybe 10-15 seconds total.

I know, a lot of questions, sorry but knowing how it's plumbed in might help visualize possible problems.

 

Each pump is powered thru a relay that is triggered by the fuel heater wire from the factory fuel bowl. The fuel comes into the fuel/water separator pre-pump, out to each pump, back in to the post-pump filter then out to the tank switching valve.

 

OK, I've never heard where the pumps and filters are located before the tank switching valves, if I'm understanding you correctly. If so why would you do that and how do you control each pump OFF - ON when switching tanks? I was more concerned on plumbing up at engine area but now more confused than ever. I'm sure it's just me but some clarification would help.

 

I'm sorry that was a brain fart. They are after the switching valves. In between them and the engine

 

Done some more messing with it yesterday. Still have extended crank time and now lots of white smoke.

 

I think the feed line from the switching valve to the pumps needs to be a larger diameter. I know on mine the instructions indicated with dual pumps this is recommended. Something to do with pump cavitation. The feed diameter (ID) hose is not large enough to feed both pumps and fuel starvation can occur.. .

At least that is what I've read but never experienced it as only used single pumps.

 

So basically the fuel line can't supply enough fuel to feed the pumps?

 

 

Yes, so I understand.

Good point, thought of that too but without plumbing up top to engine description don't know how each pump is actually connected, one to each head or both in parallel. Really hard to troubleshoot without that information.

 

Pumps are in parallel. Mounted in between the two filters