2006 f250 king ranch 6.0

while cranking it went no start no crack after repair. I was over cracking a bit trying to start it after replacing one injector. before this i replaced oil cooler and did egr and added aluminum radiator and it started after long try's. it had grey smoke still after the repairs. so i thought maybe a bad injector. i did balloon test on fuel and driver side filled balloon a little so i pulled all 4 driver side injectors and #8 nozzle tip was cracked. at first it was cracking then no power at all to the starter while cranking after replaced injector on secong reapir job. i pulled the starter wire near the passenger battery and put it to the positive on the battery and nothing at all.... i pulled the starter and had it bench tested and it passed. no power at all to the starter wires when i used multi-meter.

I'm a disabled vet on a fixed income and going thru a divorce so limited funds..... cant afford shop fee's so truck is parked until i figure it out

whats in the system? what should i check?

anything helps..... thank you

 

did u try checking the fuses? I cant remember off thevtop of my head which fuse it is.. but i do remember its a cartrige type fuse like one of the various cartridge type fuses located under the steering wheel.. i believe its somewhere near the lower left hand corner???

 

 

I checked fuses. I will check that cable. Does anyone know what is in the system?

 

Define "in the system".

 

System= components like relays or stuff that I should check. Fuses relays.... I'm stumped

 

If you are connecting the "jumper" at the passenger fender to the passenger battery positive terminal, it can't get any simpler then that. No fuses, no relays, no switches.

From the passenger battery positive terminal to the starter main lug is a 2/0 cable, no fuse, no anything but copper wire.

From the passenger fender jumper, it goes directly to the solenoid that engages the starter, no fuse no relay, no switches.

You stated, " no power at all to the starter wires when i used multi-meter.". If you are using a multimeter correctly, you won't have any voltage to the solenoid terminal wire lug unless the ignition key is turned on or the jumper placed on the positive stud at the passenger battery. If you do not have any voltage on the main terminal of the starter, there's a problem with the cable being intact.

 

Thanks for that. I appreciate your time and help. It must be the cable. I checked while turning the key on. Also used a test light to check it

 

thanks for the info and picture. i thought the small wire was ground wire. shows what i know lol. I'm no electrician to say the least. the thick wire does not have power at all and the small doesn't also. when i insert test light probe into the starter jump wire near the passenger battery i get no power. im starting to think a fusable link maybe? you said before when i use the passenger battery starter jumper wire and connect it to the battery it should work..... it doesnt. the graph confuses me a little. where are the fusible links? i think my wires are good. i feel like i need to check the system components for something like that that is preventing power. would a fusible link kill power to the passenger side wire that you use to connect to the passenger battery? I'm trying to understand the system.

today i added the 2008 transmission pan and 2008 filter upgrade and reinstalled the starter. tomorrow i need to get power to that dang starter.

thank you for the help. i mean that. i appreciate it

 

The two gray fusible links shown provide power to EVERYTHING in the truck and they come off the driver's side battery. They are blown if nothing is working, no interior lights, no dash lights, no fuel pump, nothing! And it is not in the pathway of the main positive cable to the starter, the thick cable.

Here's the main cable and what you are doing with the jumper. If that's not working there's no need to look all over the truck for other things.


So can you take pictures of the battery positive and negative connections, the starter connections, and the jumper connection you are using?

When you put your voltmeter across the positive and negative of the battery, is it 12+ volt?

 

Yes I will take pictures in the daylight tomorrow. What would cause both wires at the starter to lose power? both batteries are 12.5 volts and on a charger. everything in the car works just no power to the small wire or big wire on the starter. mine only has two wire's like in your picture. shouldn't there be a ground or negative or does it ground the transmission..... i really suck at electrical stuff. sorry. i get negative and positive and the circle flow of how it works i think. how does the starter work with only a positive? and why is the big wire always powered? how could both big wire and the small wire on the starter both lose power at the same time if they run on a different path?

 

The big red wire always has 12 volts on it feeding the alternator and the small yellow wire only has 12 volts when the key is in the start position or unplugged and connected to the positive side of the battery. The yellow wire energizes the solenoid allowing the red wire to supply max amperage for the starter to spin the engine over. The starter uses the engine and frame as the ground path back to the battery. When using a test light or even a multimeter make sure your ground connection is a good connection. With the starter that close and using a test light you can hook the negative lead directly to the battery and verify that you have or do not have 12 volts on the red cable. If you have no power on the red cable its time to look at that cable directly.

 

It's working today so idk.......weird

 

 

Not for my situation.... it was cranking and batteries got low and it stopped. Charged them. Pulled starter. Checked stuff. Reinstalled starter. It works now. I'm no expert. When I get money it's going to shop