Fuel pump issue
#1
Fuel pump issue
hey guys I’m new on here but come to these forums for help usually from other people’s previous problems. Hopefully I’m posting in the right spot. I did the hutch and harpoon mod the other day and going to bleed the system back and couldn’t get it to prime of the fuel pump. So figured the fuel pump was probably on its way out and got a new one installed and got it primed but In the process measured the voltage at the pump at 10.5volts. I was wondering if that’s right or should it be 12v? This morning I couldn’t get it to start and just could get it to smoke so hooked up a jump pack to my batteries and started in two cranks. Wondering if anyone can help on this.
Oh. It’s a 2000 F-350 2002 7.3, van turbo, hutch and harpoon, and no tuner.
Oh. It’s a 2000 F-350 2002 7.3, van turbo, hutch and harpoon, and no tuner.
#2
Welcome to FTE.
If your issue is with the voltage aka batteries and alternator:
Are you getting good voltage at the alternator? 14+ after GPR is off?
Getting that voltage to the batteries after the GPR is off?
If the problem is with the H&H:
Did you install a Racor filter when did the H&H? Do you see any air in it?
‘Did you remove the stock line coming from the sending unit to the pump?
If you did, did you use fuel injection hose and fuel injection clamps, doubling them up?
FWIW: In the future post is this forum, we know our trucks better than most here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum31/
If your issue is with the voltage aka batteries and alternator:
Are you getting good voltage at the alternator? 14+ after GPR is off?
Getting that voltage to the batteries after the GPR is off?
If the problem is with the H&H:
Did you install a Racor filter when did the H&H? Do you see any air in it?
‘Did you remove the stock line coming from the sending unit to the pump?
If you did, did you use fuel injection hose and fuel injection clamps, doubling them up?
FWIW: In the future post is this forum, we know our trucks better than most here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum31/
#3
Thanks will definitly post there next time. I might of just had weak batteries this morning possibly and not have worked out all the air yesterday after I finished. I will check my voltages tomorrow. Only problem I had today was first start this morning.
As for the H and H mod I am waiting on my Racor filter to come in the mail then will install it. I just used 3/8 fuel line and doubled up with regular hose clamps. I had a hard enough time finding just 3/8 fuel line around here. I didn’t remove the old line I just disconnected it and didn’t feel like unhooking it from the frame.
As for the H and H mod I am waiting on my Racor filter to come in the mail then will install it. I just used 3/8 fuel line and doubled up with regular hose clamps. I had a hard enough time finding just 3/8 fuel line around here. I didn’t remove the old line I just disconnected it and didn’t feel like unhooking it from the frame.
#4
Thanks will definitly post there next time. I might of just had weak batteries this morning possibly and not have worked out all the air yesterday after I finished. I will check my voltages tomorrow. Only problem I had today was first start this morning.
As for the H and H mod I am waiting on my Racor filter to come in the mail then will install it. I just used 3/8 fuel line and doubled up with regular hose clamps. I had a hard enough time finding just 3/8 fuel line around here. I didn’t remove the old line I just disconnected it and didn’t feel like unhooking it from the frame.
As for the H and H mod I am waiting on my Racor filter to come in the mail then will install it. I just used 3/8 fuel line and doubled up with regular hose clamps. I had a hard enough time finding just 3/8 fuel line around here. I didn’t remove the old line I just disconnected it and didn’t feel like unhooking it from the frame.
I left the old line up there also. I used fuel injection hose from tank to Racor and to the back of the pump. Here’s some pics of how I mounted mine. I left a loop on both sides of the Racor so if I need to remove the filter itself I can simply cut of 1” of hose and reattach it.
Slides right over frame rail. Bolts to frame holes.
Quick mock up Used a square U bolt to secure RACOR to bracket.
#5
‘You’re going to want real fuel injection clamps at the very least. HPS FIC-14x10 SAE #15 Stainless Steel 3/8" Fuel Injection Hose Clamps (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X2LF3B..._-hFcCbZC9REYR
I left the old line up there also. I used fuel injection hose from tank to Racor and to the back of the pump. Here’s some pics of how I mounted mine. I left a loop on both sides of the Racor so if I need to remove the filter itself I can simply cut of 1” of hose and reattach it.
Slides right over frame rail. Bolts to frame holes.
Quick mock up Used a square U bolt to secure RACOR to bracket.
#7
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#8
I was just gonna ask how it’s starting... The nipple that comes off the sending unit where the stock fitting attaches too, I slide the hose over the little lip. I used 3 clamps there each one offset to the one before it. I did not want to have to drop the tank a second time because of a leak there. All the other connections I used 2 clamps offset 180* to each other.
Before you install the filter make sure you remove it one came from the base. It’s on their tight end it’ll be a lot easier to remove it the first time in your shop rather than on the truck. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? That could tell you how long your pressure is holding also.
Before you install the filter make sure you remove it one came from the base. It’s on their tight end it’ll be a lot easier to remove it the first time in your shop rather than on the truck. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? That could tell you how long your pressure is holding also.
#9
Hopefully the new clamps solve the priming issue. Are there any wet spots along the fuel path or on the ground? That might give you an idea of where the pressure is bleeding off.
#10
I completely agree. Went the same route when I put in my Racor. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment or cool skills to fabricate fancy brackets though.
The glow plugs are on for up to 2 minutes when you first turn the key on. Them boys suck some juice and 10.5 VDC is about right with the key on and engine off.
Hopefully the new clamps solve the priming issue. Are there any wet spots along the fuel path or on the ground? That might give you an idea of where the pressure is bleeding off.
The glow plugs are on for up to 2 minutes when you first turn the key on. Them boys suck some juice and 10.5 VDC is about right with the key on and engine off.
Hopefully the new clamps solve the priming issue. Are there any wet spots along the fuel path or on the ground? That might give you an idea of where the pressure is bleeding off.
#11
I was just gonna ask how it’s starting... The nipple that comes off the sending unit where the stock fitting attaches too, I slide the hose over the little lip. I used 3 clamps there each one offset to the one before it. I did not want to have to drop the tank a second time because of a leak there. All the other connections I used 2 clamps offset 180* to each other.
Before you install the filter make sure you remove it one came from the base. It’s on their tight end it’ll be a lot easier to remove it the first time in your shop rather than on the truck. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? That could tell you how long your pressure is holding also.
Before you install the filter make sure you remove it one came from the base. It’s on their tight end it’ll be a lot easier to remove it the first time in your shop rather than on the truck. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? That could tell you how long your pressure is holding also.
I completely agree. Went the same route when I put in my Racor. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment or cool skills to fabricate fancy brackets though.
The glow plugs are on for up to 2 minutes when you first turn the key on. Them boys suck some juice and 10.5 VDC is about right with the key on and engine off.
Hopefully the new clamps solve the priming issue. Are there any wet spots along the fuel path or on the ground? That might give you an idea of where the pressure is bleeding off.
The glow plugs are on for up to 2 minutes when you first turn the key on. Them boys suck some juice and 10.5 VDC is about right with the key on and engine off.
Hopefully the new clamps solve the priming issue. Are there any wet spots along the fuel path or on the ground? That might give you an idea of where the pressure is bleeding off.
#12
#13
#14
I went down to my local Home Depot and got the thickest bolts that would fit through the mounting holes then bought some stuff to mount it (washers, fender washers, split washers, and nuts) to the frame...
Then I walked over to the steel tubing and found the round hollow steel tube that the bolt would just fit inside...
Then I cut the pipe with a small pipe cutter and made a mock-up...
I measured 50 times, drilled 2 holes in the frame, painted the holes to prevent rust, then installed the home-made mount...
The bolt "tails" have plenty of clearance to the parking brake cable...
My OCD is wwwaaayy above the norm so most would probably have slapped something together in an hour. Putting this together to me an entire day.
#15
Nice I got my filter and waiting on the hose clamps. So this morning turned into a bad one. Course took a while to start the this morning priming it.(Only driven it like 30 miles since the new pump) Got about a mile from the house and the truck started dieing and running on not all 8 cylinders and shaking whenever I pressed on the gas. Figured id gelled up since it was 12 last night. Limped it back home and let it sit all day to hopefully thaw. Took it for another drive and got about 500 feet and it started doing the same thing. Basically no power and could barely make it up the driveway in 4x4 low. Im hoping there is just an air leak and will fix it tomorrow with the injector clamps but hoping its not something else......