I'm hopeful that I have found my problem that has been plaguing me. But I still need some help. I cannot seem to get in proper position to get the connectors on the bottom of the FICM snapped into position. Any advice or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

In September 2016 I had a failing FICM so I sent mine off to Ed (FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts). I'm not all that handy with the tools, but I thought that I could do this job. When I pushed the connectors in as hard as I could and they were firmly seated in position, but I never heard them click. I was giving it all I had and I was getting to the end of my patience. I think that I have had poor connection and have experienced very intermittent HOP system related issues. Stumbling at low speed idle and surging when gradually accelerating. The connectors were never properly seated when I installed the FICM 2 years ago, as I just pulled it and didn't have to release the connectors. They just slid right off.

 

You can replace the connectors if the tabs are broken:
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...nector-ap0020/

You need one each of AP0018, AP0019, and AP0020. The two FICM harness connectors run about $60, versus a complete harness at around $180, and you'd still potentially need the PCM harness connector.

 

I have found it’s just as easy to remove the 4 tapered 10mm nuts that hold the ficm in place. This allows you to tilt it and gives easier acces to snapping the plugs in place. Once they snap in place just reinstall the nuts.

 

 

Sometimes You may have to apply a thin layer of dielectric grease to the ouside of the plug to get it to move freely. The rubber on the FICM can get all grabby sometimes.

 

Connectors look to be 100%. I'm just too big and clumsy on top of the motor to get my arms and hands in there to give enough pressure to lock them into position. I'm going to try and disconnect some downstream connections to the harness to get some slack so I can connect it with it turned on its side. I need better leverage.

 

Thanks for the tie wrap and grease suggestions. I'm definitely going to apply the grease to the gray rubber and connectors. For the tie wraps, I wish I would have thought about that two years ago, but I'm not going to be satisfied this time unless I feel and/or hear them click into position. I don't want to deal with this again, and if I get HOP systems in the future, I would automatically think it would be a FICM connection problem. Hopefully this solves my no start issue. It makes sense to me that with the symptoms I've been having for the past year that this has been a problem.

 

 

Sorry I didn't respond to previous post, but I've removed the FICM and have it in hand. Wanted to inspect the male posts as well as the Connectors. I've lubed them up and will retry after I get off work, but I still cannot get into a comfortable position to replace the connectors. I'm going to try and get some slack in the harness by disconnecting a few injectors and glow plugs. I think if I can tilt it to the side a little I will have a better chance. If not, I'm going to hire a teenager to get in there for me.

 

 

Yes, The degas has been totally removed. When I pulled the FICM the first time(Sept. 2016), I broke the Y fitting down below trying to position the tank out of the way, so this time I drained the fluid and pulled it out of the truck completely. My main problem is that I don't enjoy working on things like this and I end up fighting it with a bad attitude. This afternoon, I'm going to try and stay positive and work slowly and methodically. I originally was going to pull the IPR while I've had everything out of the way. I'm not going there now. Beyond what I want to do myself. I might tackle the Exhaust Back Pressure sensor and tubing. I sprayed penetrating oil on it last night.

 

 

Just a word of caution on the EBP sensor, use two wrenches, one on the fitting & one on the sensor.

 

I had no success on getting FICM connectors to click. The connectors are not broken, I greased the connectors and the gray rubber seals on the FICM with dielectric grease. I used a 1 x 2 underneath connectors and I was able to get plenty of leverage on them and still no click. After reading a few posts on difficlut connectors I found a PDF that is put out by Ed at ficmrepair.com that said the following.

​​​​​​If all that broke is one or both of the clips that ensure that the plug doesn't work itself loose, many have had good luck using heavy duty zip ties around the module to keep the plugs fully seated. Others have had luck taking a maybe 10" section of radiator hose, sliting it length wise and installing it under the module as a way to press the plugs continually back in.

I went out and bought some 24" cable ties and secured them as tight as I could covering everything except the outside of the connector closest to the firewall. I'm going to go with this for now, and after I change out my bottom radiator hose, I will try and shove it up under there too. Hopefully she will start now. It ran well with the connectors shoved up there for at least 8 months and only had a very occasional stumbling and surging since then. Of course I could still have a HPO system issue, but hopefully not. I appreciate all the input. This is really not my cup of tea, and my bruised ribs and scraped arm and hands need some time to heal.

 

I feel your pain - literally. I just reinstalled my FICM and I feel like I have been worked over with a ball peen hammer.A couple things that might help you are:

1. Come at the installation from the front of the truck. Put down some rugs on the engine and crawl up on the engine. You will be able to see the plugs and the receptacles and fit them together more easily. Taking the thing out from the side was a piece of cake but reinstalling the FICM from the side was not workable for me. I did not hear an audible click when I inserted the plugs but I did yank on each one to ensure it was seated properly.

2. I removed the deglas bottle and it gave me much more visibility and room to work. I used some vaseline on the bottom hose and it slid on easily. I reset the hose clamp in a vice and it was easy to install.

Good luck to you - I hope it works out. If you need some more information, I have a new post on here named FICM Failing and I got some good advice from others.