When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Seems most of the interesting links on this topic in the tech files are dead, so I've gotta ask here.
I've never drained the water separator on my 2004 F250 6.0L. Last time I was going to do it 'routinely,' I actually couldn't find it. Now it's been a couple of years without draining it and the WIF light (?) comes on now and then, especially on rainy days.
Oh, and outside of the Ford dealership, a place I hope to never go to again, I simply can't find someone at the service writer counters of independent garages who seem to even understand what a water separator drain plug is, let alone what they'd charge to pull one out for me.
So, in reading everything I can everywhere (the most interesting articles were apparently once at links that are now dead ) it seems that I should expect that the treads on my drain plug will be seized or fouled and the 'head' of the Allen screw will most likely strip out without nudging the plug bolt. On the other hand, I've read the if I make sure the Allen wrench I use fits rightly and is inserted to full depth, it's not likely to strip out. But, even if that's the case, is is possible that the bolt still won't budge?
And if this is the case, is the 'work around' going to be to replace the full HFCM (at what cost?) or is it realistic to think that I could just replace the JFCM cover?
Mostly, though, I'm asking if anyone can guess the odds of the bolt actually coming out with a good and deep fitting Allen wrench and the HFCM draining for me.
Where is the current source for the improved drain plug? (again, dead links)
Oh, and to really **** real mechanics off: is there a fuel line additive that can clear the water that's making the dash light come on out of the system? (Or an fuel additive I should be using with every tank anyway?)
Thanks to everyone for any and all consideration and advice!
The Ford PM-22 centain booster is a good additive as some others if you search the forum, not necessarily the tech pages.
If you have gone this long without draining there is a chance the screw is pooched. And there’s a chance there is a good amount of sludge built up in the cavity, so often the best cure might be to remove the cover and clean it out. The good part of this is there is a kit for replacing the cover and screw, and it’s the only way to buy the gasket you would also need, but at least it’s cheaper then the entire HFCM.
There is a better ****/screw that should be used.
Give me a few minutes and I’ll get the part numbers.
This is the Fumoto drain valve I've seen recommended elsewhere. Is this something I'd find locally at a place like Trick Trucks are is it pretty much a mail order item?
Do you know that there is a fuel filter behind that plug that separates the water from the fuel? That filter, along with the filter in the engine compartment, really needs changing routinely.
This is the Fumoto drain valve I've seen recommended elsewhere. Is this something I'd find locally at a place like Trick Trucks are is it pretty much a mail order item?
So, on a 4x4 you still take this one out with an Allen wrench.
I guess I should try to find a video of it because I assume you can' get your fingers on the gnarl and I can't visualize how that "T" functions, either.
I'll take your advice regardless. (Not in stock at my Ford dealership and $38 if it was.)
That I've kept within mileage on replacing (10k?) but I haven't gotten over 2000 miles a year for the past couple of years, so they've been in for some time.
Does changing the lower one also drain the water separator?
Last time I went to do it I had trouble with the caps above and below being to tight for me to wrench them any harder without fear of breaking fastening bolts or something so I went to dealership with them.
If you took it to the dealership the last time they should have pulled the plug and drained the water separator, so it may not be in such poor state as you imagine. The issue with it being a 4x4 is you have awkward access due to the driveshaft which oftens results in a bath of diesel. And changing the filter does not drain the water separator.
The F-111N is the valve for the oil drain, best ordered online.
I think there was some confusion in 'quotes' above so I'll ask specifically
Is the Fumoto oil drain valve the one to go for?
Thanks
I guess we posted at about the same time Jack, lol.
As I posted above, and as Jack posted ....... NO, the fumoto valve threads won't fit in the WIF drain opening!
The knurled **** plug (the one that I posted the link to) is inserted by hand and tightened HAND TIGHT ONLY. There is no pressure to speak of at that point in the system (in fact it is often under a slight vacuum). The o-ring on the plug is what seals it ... so any amount of extra tightening on it does not help any,
The fact is that you may have so much corrosion and scale built up in the HFCM (Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module) that you will need to either have parts of it replaced or have the whole thing replaced. Even so, the plug is a good start. You need it even if you need to replace the HFCM. Hopefully Jack is correct that the dealership work on it may indicate it isn't bad inside. Once you drain it and re-install the plug, if the WIF (Water In Fuel) light stays on, that is a sign that you have crud or corrosion inside the HFCM.
That primary fuel filter component (ie the lower filter) is called an HFCM because it removes water as well as filters. It "conditions" the fuel. Changing the filter element does NOT drain the water out.
11-12-2018, 07:36 PM
