6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Cab off Houston area

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Old 09-27-2018, 10:57 PM
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Cab off Houston area

We are planning a trip to Moab UT in the spring and want to make sure the truck is in tip top shape before we leave. We will be towing a car hauler with a Jeep on it. I recently got the PO405 code which I believe is the egr solenoid. Instead of spending any money on that I figured what better time than now to do the stud, egr etc routine. I’ve priced it out and the shops are from 4-5k with 2500-2800 being labor. I’ve been in the market for a 2 post lift lately and had a crazy idea to spend the money on the lift that I would for labor and do it myself.

Now that I have had that epiphany, reality set in and I realized I don’t have a clue about doing any of this. I’m mechanical and handy but never dug into a Powerstroke like this. Would there be any local guys that have done this that would be interested in helping me. My schedule is pretty open and I would need to wait until the Jeep comes in around the middle of November. Hopefully everything can last that long.

TL;DR Houston area/grimes county anyone interested in helping me do studs/egr delete etc in my shop with a lift?

thanks

brett
 
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Old 09-29-2018, 02:51 AM
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What kind of lift are you looking at? I'm thinking doing the same thing once I have a barn to put it in, but I'm thinking I don't need a lift big enough to raise the whole truck, just vehicles up to around 2 tons. Most other work like brakes can be done on the ground as it's so big.
But far away to help you I'm afraid...
 
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Old 09-29-2018, 07:03 AM
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That estimate is pretty far off in my opinion. The EGR solenoid which Is the valve is 2 bolts and an electrical connector. Takes 2 minutes max to change. Why do you want to do EGR cooler and studs? Are you having coolant issues?
 
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Old 09-29-2018, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Euroman
What kind of lift are you looking at? I'm thinking doing the same thing once I have a barn to put it in, but I'm thinking I don't need a lift big enough to raise the whole truck, just vehicles up to around 2 tons. Most other work like brakes can be done on the ground as it's so big.
But far away to help you I'm afraid...
https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-PV-10P this is the one I’ll go with. It can lift the entire truck. When you pour your concrete box out an area and make the Concrete a little thick for the lift. I have 5.5” throughout but you don’t want to hit rebar

Originally Posted by Tofan
That estimate is pretty far off in my opinion. The EGR solenoid which Is the valve is 2 bolts and an electrical connector. Takes 2 minutes max to change. Why do you want to do EGR cooler and studs? Are you having coolant issues?
the labor prices were the same from PSE on their 10k package or 4500 one. A company local me was around 4800 and Powerstroke magic was at 3200 but when something is to good to be true, it usually is. We’re hauling to Moab in April and would like the peace of mind that I have taken precautions to reduce a possible breakdown. I don’t think I’m having coolant issues. I need to order the sct livewire today so I can monitor the temps. I’ve had the truck 10k miles and had the dealer go thru it prior to purchase and said the temps were perfect.

Brett
 
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Old 09-29-2018, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rustyshakelford
realized I don’t have a clue about doing any of this. I’m mechanical and handy but never dug into a Powerstroke like this..... would like the peace of mind that I have taken precautions to reduce a possible breakdown.
Tearing down a factory sealed engine to do in-depth work at home without experience is not always the best solution. Even a professional service environment will never be as clean or have as tight of tolerances as the factory build. Machining on this engine will start discussions that go on for long enough to make you want to buy a 6.2 just to be done with the headache. Why not run the engine until there really IS an issue? Lots of stock TTY trucks working every day that weren't torn in half for no good reason. Lots of trucks that were torn in half for more reliability end up back in the shop again with a real failure.

In your case I'd pull and clean/replace the EGR valve. Add Isspro EV2 EGT, fuel pressure and coolant pressure gauges. Run a full digital gauge box (NOT a Livewire tuner, a real gauge like Dashboos, Torque, FORScan). It could be 200k miles before you even have a hiccup. But something dumb like fuel pressure could nuke your injectors before your heads ever burp.
 
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Old 09-29-2018, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
Tearing down a factory sealed engine to do in-depth work at home without experience is not always the best solution. Even a professional service environment will never be as clean or have as tight of tolerances as the factory build. Machining on this engine will start discussions that go on for long enough to make you want to buy a 6.2 just to be done with the headache. Why not run the engine until there really IS an issue? Lots of stock TTY trucks working every day that weren't torn in half for no good reason. Lots of trucks that were torn in half for more reliability end up back in the shop again with a real failure.

In your case I'd pull and clean/replace the EGR valve. Add Isspro EV2 EGT, fuel pressure and coolant pressure gauges. Run a full digital gauge box (NOT a Livewire tuner, a real gauge like Dashboos, Torque, FORScan). It could be 200k miles before you even have a hiccup. But something dumb like fuel pressure could nuke your injectors before your heads ever burp.
I ordered a new solenoid. Certainly the easiest solution to the current problem. The Jeep won’t be in until nov/dec so if this will hold me over until then I’ll be in good shape as I need the Jeep to daily drive while this is down. I’m going to order the lift and a full delete/stud kit and have a nice winter project. When I said I didn’t have a clue I guess I sold myself short. I was hoping to have some interest from someone local that could show me some tips and tricks but I’m more than compentent to do every part of this once the lift is in my shop is atleast as equipment if not better than the majority of them out there. I’m sure I’ll be on here trying to pick peoples brains but what’s the worst that can happen? It gets pulled to ford and have them fix it?

Brett
 
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Old 09-29-2018, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by rustyshakelford
I ordered a new solenoid. Certainly the easiest solution to the current problem. The Jeep won’t be in until nov/dec so if this will hold me over until then I’ll be in good shape as I need the Jeep to daily drive while this is down. I’m going to order the lift and a full delete/stud kit and have a nice winter project. When I said I didn’t have a clue I guess I sold myself short. I was hoping to have some interest from someone local that could show me some tips and tricks but I’m more than compentent to do every part of this once the lift is in my shop is atleast as equipment if not better than the majority of them out there. I’m sure I’ll be on here trying to pick peoples brains but what’s the worst that can happen? It gets pulled to ford and have them fix it?

Brett
Its actually not that daunting a task. I rebuilt/replaced everything on top of mine from the HG up, without a lift, with the body on, and without any prior 6.0l experience. Oh yeah, I did it in my gravel driveway!

The first time I made one little mistake, I decided to risk it and not change the HPOP. Which of course failed 25,000 miles after I rebuilt engine.

If you do the work...change the HPOP and get a Bulletproof Diesel remote oil cooler while it's apart.
 
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Old 09-30-2018, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by rustyshakelford
https://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-PV-10P this is the one I’ll go with. It can lift the entire truck. When you pour your concrete box out an area and make the Concrete a little thick for the lift. I have 5.5” throughout but you don’t want to hit rebarthe labor prices were the same from PSE on their 10k package or 4500 one. A company local me was around 4800 and Powerstroke magic was at 3200 but when something is to good to be true, it usually is. We’re hauling to Moab in April and would like the peace of mind that I have taken precautions to reduce a possible breakdown. I don’t think I’m having coolant issues. I need to order the sct livewire today so I can monitor the temps. I’ve had the truck 10k miles and had the dealer go thru it prior to purchase and said the temps were perfect.

Brett
Nice lift, nice price. Over here the 3.5T lifts cost about that much and they are too close to the limit for me. I'll have to see what shipping costs - and make sure the base is solid and that it can use 230V 50Hz.
I thought US uses 110V single phase and 200V 3-Phase...
 
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Old 09-30-2018, 07:13 AM
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Technically in the USA voltage of 120/240 comes from a standard single phase system, with two hot legs coming from the transformer, each being 120 volts to neutral, where the AC sine waves are 180 degrees out of phase. For commercial situations, facilities use 3-phase power because it’s more efficient. All 60hz. Down at the farm I’ve got 240/3 for the irrigation pump.

I said technically because there are losses in the distribution system and well as home connections. In my family room where I have my sound system the voltage out of the plug typically runs 110-111v, so I have a power transformer that brings it up to 120v for the electronics.



 
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Old 09-30-2018, 01:13 PM
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Thanks for the info. In Germany standard house supply is 3-phase with single phases being taken off and used for the 230V. Here in France standard is one phase 230V so high current devices have big breakers on them, and thick cables.
I'll have to see if the lift can take 50Hz. At least it's not as bad as the other way round when motors run 20% faster and tend to burn out quicker.
 
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Old 10-15-2018, 09:21 PM
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I installed the new lift and love it. Truck is running great with the new solenoid too.

Brett
 
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Old 10-16-2018, 07:08 AM
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we want pictures of the lift!! with and without the truck on it!
 
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Old 10-16-2018, 09:52 AM
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Lift and shop are on the list for my next place. If you're headed to easter jeep safari, be prepared to spend long days on the trail waiting for people who have little to no off roading experience winching up stuff they can drive up.
We just got back from there, and stayed at the KOA in the deluxe cabins, a bit pricey, but they were nice, and it wasn't bad split 4 ways.

As for trails I'd recommend Poison Spider Mesa, Cliff Hanger, Top of the World (pic posted in the what did you do today thread). Depending on how well your jeep is built. At a minimum get some rocker protection on it before going out. Stock JK's could do some amazing things, but ground clearance is an issue. I wheel an old 95 Cherokee XJ that I built about 10 years ago.
 
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Old 10-16-2018, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by markw365
Lift and shop are on the list for my next place. If you're headed to easter jeep safari, be prepared to spend long days on the trail waiting for people who have little to no off roading experience winching up stuff they can drive up.
We just got back from there, and stayed at the KOA in the deluxe cabins, a bit pricey, but they were nice, and it wasn't bad split 4 ways.

As for trails I'd recommend Poison Spider Mesa, Cliff Hanger, Top of the World (pic posted in the what did you do today thread). Depending on how well your jeep is built. At a minimum get some rocker protection on it before going out. Stock JK's could do some amazing things, but ground clearance is an issue. I wheel an old 95 Cherokee XJ that I built about 10 years ago.
'95 XJ's Represent!!
 
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Old 10-16-2018, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by markw365
Lift and shop are on the list for my next place. If you're headed to easter jeep safari, be prepared to spend long days on the trail waiting for people who have little to no off roading experience winching up stuff they can drive up.
We just got back from there, and stayed at the KOA in the deluxe cabins, a bit pricey, but they were nice, and it wasn't bad split 4 ways.

As for trails I'd recommend Poison Spider Mesa, Cliff Hanger, Top of the World (pic posted in the what did you do today thread). Depending on how well your jeep is built. At a minimum get some rocker protection on it before going out. Stock JK's could do some amazing things, but ground clearance is an issue. I wheel an old 95 Cherokee XJ that I built about 10 years ago.
I’ll post some pics of the lift tomorrow. Our Jeep won’t be in till around thanksgiving. It’s a 19 JLUR with the 6 speed. Current mods that are ordered are

mopar beadlock wheels
cooper stt 37x12.5r17
Metalcloak gamechanger 3.5” lift with front deiveshaft
Metalcloak full skids with rear diff and FAD/steering stabilizer
dana/spicer 5.13 gears

Within the next month or waiting till Black Friday
waiting for ace to come out with their tire carrier and will get their sliders
front/rear bumpers
smittybilt x2o 10k winch
half doors
cb
mesh top

its going to be a busy couple weeks trying to get this built and put some time on it but we’re looking forward to it

brett
 


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