Taking my 6.0 to the extremem cold!!!
#1
09-22-2018, 12:04 AM
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Taking my 6.0 to the extremem cold!!!
Gentleman
The Army has decided to take me to upstate New York. I have a 2004 Excursion 6.0 that has spent its whole life in the warm climate of California and Georgia. I am curious what, if any, problems you all have experience in taking your 6.0s from a life in the warm climate to the extreme cold and long winters that I am moving to? Here is a brief history of the engine and what upgrades/mods have already been done.
-BPD EGR
-BPD Oil Cooler
-Blue Spring Kit
-Prestone Command Cat-1 coolant (ELC)
-All injectors have been replaced within last 50k
-Coolant filtration system
-Block Heater installed
-Fuel Filters within 5k
-Shell Rotella T-6 for all oil changes
There are 140k on the engine/vehicle and it runs excellent right now. I use the OBD fusion app and monitor all engine parameters that I can while driving. The ECT/EOT spread is never further than 8 degrees aside from transient conditions and then only 10-13 degrees momentarily. I have about 3 months left in the warm climate and am looking to make any improvements I can to keep my truck reliable in that time frame so please let me know what you all think!
Also from your experience any fuel additives that you think may help with the cold start!
Appreciate it!!!
The Army has decided to take me to upstate New York. I have a 2004 Excursion 6.0 that has spent its whole life in the warm climate of California and Georgia. I am curious what, if any, problems you all have experience in taking your 6.0s from a life in the warm climate to the extreme cold and long winters that I am moving to? Here is a brief history of the engine and what upgrades/mods have already been done.
-BPD EGR
-BPD Oil Cooler
-Blue Spring Kit
-Prestone Command Cat-1 coolant (ELC)
-All injectors have been replaced within last 50k
-Coolant filtration system
-Block Heater installed
-Fuel Filters within 5k
-Shell Rotella T-6 for all oil changes
There are 140k on the engine/vehicle and it runs excellent right now. I use the OBD fusion app and monitor all engine parameters that I can while driving. The ECT/EOT spread is never further than 8 degrees aside from transient conditions and then only 10-13 degrees momentarily. I have about 3 months left in the warm climate and am looking to make any improvements I can to keep my truck reliable in that time frame so please let me know what you all think!
Also from your experience any fuel additives that you think may help with the cold start!
Appreciate it!!!
#2
09-22-2018, 03:27 AM
Best thing us to make sure your batteries are good. I put new batteries in every three years no matter what.
The block heater will help, but you probably won’t really need it.
I use 5w-20 full synthetic oil.
I have gas trucks, but in my diesel equipment, I keep that red bottle of Diesel 911 available. I also add some of the white bottle diesel clean to each fill. Also keep spare fuel filters in case of gelling.
Apart from engine related stuff, the other most important item is a good set of snow tires. Bad tires on a 4x4 in snow make it all useless
I’m in CNY. I’m guessing you’re headed to Watertown
The block heater will help, but you probably won’t really need it.
I use 5w-20 full synthetic oil.
I have gas trucks, but in my diesel equipment, I keep that red bottle of Diesel 911 available. I also add some of the white bottle diesel clean to each fill. Also keep spare fuel filters in case of gelling.
Apart from engine related stuff, the other most important item is a good set of snow tires. Bad tires on a 4x4 in snow make it all useless
I’m in CNY. I’m guessing you’re headed to Watertown
#3
09-22-2018, 05:16 AM
#4
09-22-2018, 06:24 AM
Welcome to the rust belt. There is a reason they call it that. I am starting to tear up hearing about a southern truck that is going up there. I will not let my F350 leave the driveway during the winter, unless the roads are dry and the rain has washed away the salt residue. My truck lived in CA and TX before coming here. My Suburban picks up the slack during salt season.
Not much more to add than above. Batteries, winterized fuel and block heater. Make sure you have the proper coolant ratio. I have heard of vehicles freeze when they only have water in them. It may work in the south but not up here.
Not much more to add than above. Batteries, winterized fuel and block heater. Make sure you have the proper coolant ratio. I have heard of vehicles freeze when they only have water in them. It may work in the south but not up here.
#5
09-22-2018, 06:57 AM
For extreme cold the batteries are effected more then the motor. If you look at any battery temperature graph not only capacity is reduced due to the cold, but so is charging ability. If you have access to 120v rather then the block heater, or in addition to depending on how cold, battery warmers can keep the batteries in a warm environment for a reasonable price.
Another thing that can help in the cold is getting both batteries in balance connectively. The factory 2ga cable battery to battery is a little too small, but something as reasonable as a 1/0ga 70” cable eye to eye with 1/4” eyes connects between the factory camps helping with that issue. The other addition in addition is on the ground side, and the easiest to do is buy the same ground cable that is used on the passenger side and use it on the drivers side just like the dual alternator trucks do. It’s easiest to pull the battery, tray and intercooler piping to do this, the primary cable connects to the block just above the bottom stator standoff, and depending on the truck the small leg connects to the frame at the crossovers front, or not at all. It’s really not needed.
Those two cables will allow a balanced battery output to the starter.
Whether you do that cable addition or not, there is another I would do, add an 8ga or 6ga 30” cable from the drivers battery terminal to the 8mm ground screw located at the inner fender drivers side by the hood strut mount. It’s actually more important if you don’t do the addional main cables.
But I'm on an extreme electric rant.....
Another thing that can help in the cold is getting both batteries in balance connectively. The factory 2ga cable battery to battery is a little too small, but something as reasonable as a 1/0ga 70” cable eye to eye with 1/4” eyes connects between the factory camps helping with that issue. The other addition in addition is on the ground side, and the easiest to do is buy the same ground cable that is used on the passenger side and use it on the drivers side just like the dual alternator trucks do. It’s easiest to pull the battery, tray and intercooler piping to do this, the primary cable connects to the block just above the bottom stator standoff, and depending on the truck the small leg connects to the frame at the crossovers front, or not at all. It’s really not needed.
Those two cables will allow a balanced battery output to the starter.
Whether you do that cable addition or not, there is another I would do, add an 8ga or 6ga 30” cable from the drivers battery terminal to the 8mm ground screw located at the inner fender drivers side by the hood strut mount. It’s actually more important if you don’t do the addional main cables.
But I'm on an extreme electric rant.....
#6
09-22-2018, 07:05 AM
I sure wouldn't use a 20 wt oil in your powerstroke diesel. No reason to. A 40 wt (when hot) is no issue at all.
We have had a lot of people from the North on the forum over the years - Canada, Alaska, etc. Many people run a 0W-40 oil. Synthetic oil is most likely going to have better cold flow properties than oil from a non-synthetic base stock.
Make sure your block heater is working and some people have installed oil pan heaters as well.
Definitely a good suggestion on the batteries and the coolant.
Diesel911 contains alcohol and isn't the best thing for your injectors so I wouldn't use it continuously, but it does work on gelled fuel and sometimes it is necessary. I would probably use a fuel additive up there, but since I don't need to where I am at, I wouldn't know which one was best for cold weather. Ford recommends a water demulsifier rather than an emulsifier. That said, sometimes I think that suppliers up North take fuel quality more seriously than ones down here in the South.
We have had a lot of people from the North on the forum over the years - Canada, Alaska, etc. Many people run a 0W-40 oil. Synthetic oil is most likely going to have better cold flow properties than oil from a non-synthetic base stock.
Make sure your block heater is working and some people have installed oil pan heaters as well.
Definitely a good suggestion on the batteries and the coolant.
Diesel911 contains alcohol and isn't the best thing for your injectors so I wouldn't use it continuously, but it does work on gelled fuel and sometimes it is necessary. I would probably use a fuel additive up there, but since I don't need to where I am at, I wouldn't know which one was best for cold weather. Ford recommends a water demulsifier rather than an emulsifier. That said, sometimes I think that suppliers up North take fuel quality more seriously than ones down here in the South.
#7
09-22-2018, 08:37 AM
Postmaster
Don't overthink it too much.
These vehicles go from hot to cold all the time, as does any other diesel.
Yeah, it's a 6.0, but the basics are not any different from any other diesel engine RE: cold weather items.
Main thing to remember apart from good points above is once the overnight temps start to get below freezing, start using anti gel.
Diesel fuel can start to cloud at 32*F and gel 15*, and while pretty much any station blends for winter fuel here in the northern states, it's cheap insurance when you don't know for sure when a station has winter blend in the tanks.
I'm not gonna skimp a few bucks worth of product I know keeps things from gelling up when I don't know for sure if the fuel I'm using is rated for 0*
Personally I run the PM 23 anti gel, it's never let me down, that and cetane boost will help her pop off a little quicker........I'm a fan of Opti Lubes stuff
These vehicles go from hot to cold all the time, as does any other diesel.
Yeah, it's a 6.0, but the basics are not any different from any other diesel engine RE: cold weather items.
Main thing to remember apart from good points above is once the overnight temps start to get below freezing, start using anti gel.
Diesel fuel can start to cloud at 32*F and gel 15*, and while pretty much any station blends for winter fuel here in the northern states, it's cheap insurance when you don't know for sure when a station has winter blend in the tanks.
I'm not gonna skimp a few bucks worth of product I know keeps things from gelling up when I don't know for sure if the fuel I'm using is rated for 0*
Personally I run the PM 23 anti gel, it's never let me down, that and cetane boost will help her pop off a little quicker........I'm a fan of Opti Lubes stuff
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#9
09-22-2018, 10:28 AM
There's a guy named Ty (tylus) on here you should find an PM, he moved from Hawaii to Groton, Mass I believe. Ended up with a '95-ish F-250 maybe, but has had a 6.0 plus about a dozen other Fords. Might not be a bad idea to grab a gas engine 4x4 beater (old F-150, Explorer, etc) for the winter that you won't cry about when it rusts away, just so much less of a hassle to deal with in the winter - not just diesel fuel concerns, but not sweating corrosion protection or washing it in the winter (the cold will be harder on YOU than the truck 
), cheaper parts and fewer concerns if the battery has issues. A bottle of HEET and maybe a dual battery, and you're good to go with the beater. Who cares if the A/C works, you might as well just delete it, so you might find one even cheaper since it's almost unusable in the South without one.
), cheaper parts and fewer concerns if the battery has issues. A bottle of HEET and maybe a dual battery, and you're good to go with the beater. Who cares if the A/C works, you might as well just delete it, so you might find one even cheaper since it's almost unusable in the South without one.For future readers, please don't use gasoline engine/SN-rated 5W-20 in a diesel, it's not the right oil for the engine.
5W-40 works down into the 0* range fine. There is 0W-40 available if you really want it. With how the 6.0 loves to shear oil, using a Wolverine oil pan heater to stay with 5W-40 will get to down to past where your fuel is jelly.
Necessary to use an oil pan heater? Not at all. But it's an option that will make cold starts easier, so even if you only use it a few times when it's REALLY cold it's not bad to have.
https://wolverineheater.com/
5W-40 works down into the 0* range fine. There is 0W-40 available if you really want it. With how the 6.0 loves to shear oil, using a Wolverine oil pan heater to stay with 5W-40 will get to down to past where your fuel is jelly.
Necessary to use an oil pan heater? Not at all. But it's an option that will make cold starts easier, so even if you only use it a few times when it's REALLY cold it's not bad to have.
https://wolverineheater.com/
#10
09-22-2018, 10:01 PM
More Turbo
#11
09-23-2018, 04:41 AM
I think you're going to be OK with your truck up there. Just make sure to keep your fuel doped with anti-gel, good freeze proof windshield washer fluid and a spare set of fuel filters. Have a good appropriate extension cord and a good battery charger handy. Up there in NY, I'd probably have a good timer to plug the extension cord into, you don't really need to run the block heaters all night, just about two or three hours before you start it.
Good luck up there and thank you for your service!
Good luck up there and thank you for your service!
#12
10-09-2018, 09:21 PM
Join Date: Jun 2018
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Seville009
Thanks for the reply and sorry for not responding sooner, been a busy few weeks. Are you telling me that a fuel gelling problem s as simple as swapping out the fuel filters? And if so which one is more likely to gel (engine compartment or frame mounted)?
Your right, headed to Watertown, and now that I finally had a chance to read peoples responses it sounds like rust is my biggest concern up there.
Thanks for the reply and sorry for not responding sooner, been a busy few weeks. Are you telling me that a fuel gelling problem s as simple as swapping out the fuel filters? And if so which one is more likely to gel (engine compartment or frame mounted)?
Your right, headed to Watertown, and now that I finally had a chance to read peoples responses it sounds like rust is my biggest concern up there.
#13
10-09-2018, 09:22 PM
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#14
10-09-2018, 09:27 PM
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Macrosill
When i did the coolant flush and swapped out the Ford Gold with the Cat Red I did it with the cold in mind, (i did a 60/40 coolant/Distilled water mix) so i think Im good there. Do you see a need for any more concentrated coolant than that, I'm unfamiliar with how cold it actually gets up there. Also what do you suggest for winterizing the fuel?
Thanks
When i did the coolant flush and swapped out the Ford Gold with the Cat Red I did it with the cold in mind, (i did a 60/40 coolant/Distilled water mix) so i think Im good there. Do you see a need for any more concentrated coolant than that, I'm unfamiliar with how cold it actually gets up there. Also what do you suggest for winterizing the fuel?
Thanks
#15
10-09-2018, 09:37 PM
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TooManyToys
HAHA, yeah you lost me there with all the cable talk, my weak suit is electronics, which appears to be your strong suit, but if you do suggest this do you know of any youtube videos that show what you are talking about? It may help if i can see exactly what you are talking about.
Regardless, thanks for the advice and I may write you back later to get a little better description of what you are suggesting.
HAHA, yeah you lost me there with all the cable talk, my weak suit is electronics, which appears to be your strong suit, but if you do suggest this do you know of any youtube videos that show what you are talking about? It may help if i can see exactly what you are talking about.
Regardless, thanks for the advice and I may write you back later to get a little better description of what you are suggesting.