The problem I'm having is that the new idler pulley literally hits the new tenioner assembly and the old tensioner for that matter. To the point that the idler pulley doesn't spin freely. What is wrong?!?

 

Post a picture please.

 

Sounds like your belt is too long, or too short depending on how it's rubbing?

Edit: Or maybe you've got the belt threaded through all the pulleys wrong. I know that even with a diagram I have to do some head scratching to get it right. Can you post a picture like Hit Man asked?

 

 

The original problem was that the old tensioner was so bad that it was rubbing away at the tensioner bolt.

Same picture sans drawing.

New problem is no matter what I've done or tried to do. The new idler pulley cannot fully seat without contacting the tensioner. I've tried different combos of old and new. And turns out all of them hit.

I ground down the extra ridge that was already lower than the rest of the tensioner. Still doesn't clear. Currently I'm frantically searching for the extra washer from the tensioner to use behind the idler.

 

Sure the pulley is not backwards? Or that the new tensioner has a washer or the brackest has a stuck washer?

 

I do suppose the idler pulley could be backwards, although I figured the bearing would be a face out kind of deal. As in markings out. but maybe that's wrong. The tensioner has no spacers or washers on the mount or the tensioner back. maybe the alignment pegs are out of round. although, the old tensioner does the same thing. I'll try to remember to check all that next weekend.

 

Any other ideas? Flipping the pulley inside out doesn't do anything since it is centered. I gave up and put the washer from the tensioner bolt behind the new idler pulley. Works so far. Doesn't seem to be too far out of alignment.

 

I'm really at a loss on this one. All I can think is that somehow a part isn't the right one. If you know anyone with an OBS Powerstroke maybe you can compare tensioner systems with them. Or next time you see one at a gas station ask the owner if you can take a look at his belt drive system. Most OBS Powerstroke owners like to talk about their trucks. Glad you at least got it going but it would be good to get it right.

 

Buy OEM parts and return those. CHINA is stamped on your tensioner, bet the problem lies there. Seriously.

I replaced my OEM 250k idlers and tensioner with new Motorcraft, spend maybe $100. Rockauto at times has deals there, or just hit up your local dealer. Gates Fleetrunner for your belt!

 

Does the belt line up correctly with the pulley hitting? I had a "will fit" idler on a chevy once that had a thinner bearing, and needed a washer behind it to move it out and into alignment.....that might solve the problem. As far as the tensioner, with all the aftermarket parts store stuff I use on a weekly basis, those darn tensioners are a good thing to get OEM. Went through 4 NAPA ones on a Cummins once, never did get one that didn't run the belt off - new OE, straight as an arrow. It looks in the picture like the old OE one was shaped differently on the base, is that the issue?

Speaking of Powerstroke idlers, do they still do the conversion kit with the double pulleys on the tensioner base, and you cut the mount off for the fixed pulley? Remember doing that to one years ago, thought it looked really slick.

On Edit - sorry, somehow missed post #7. Looks like you checked everything I was thinking.

 

SD double pulleys is the way to go.

 

Is that what those are from? Maybe wasnt a kit, just a retrofit at the time. Never had a superduty, guy at a stealer ship told me about em once, when mine needed a new arm. I know you've got a bunch of probably non-returnable parts, but it's a nice way to do it. Basically makes both the pulleys you've got fixed to each other, so there can't be an alignment issue. When mine started to fail, it tipped just enough to make it start jumping ribs, went from a fine belt to a 2-rib in about 200 miles

 

There you go:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...rade-pics.html

 

I had the same issues with my truck tonight and for anyone else having this problem, the previous owner took the idler off and didn’t put the spacer on the correct side the way it’s supposed to be. There’s a bowled washer that goes in the backside of the pulley to center it and a shoulder on the bolt that centers the front. The previous owner had put the washer on the front side cause this issue.