NEED MORE POWER; HELP NEEDED
#1
04-12-2018, 04:39 PM
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NEED MORE POWER; HELP NEEDED
Hello fellow ford addicts,
I have a 1995 F-150 with a 2.5 in suspension lift with 15x12in bart super trucker wheels and 33x12.5x15 mickey Thompson Baja MTZ P3’s and it’s like my truck has lost HP due to all the extra weight/height. I have a newish crate motor (5.0 302 V8) with only 30,xxx miles on it with a newly rebuilt transmission. I’m looking for more get up and go. I know everybody will say drop a cam in it and all these other expensive things, but I’m not looking for a race truck, I want to be able to have plenty of hp and torque while still having good/decent mpg. I’m thinking new headers, bored throttle body, throttle body spacer, cold air intake,.. but I need ideas and help. I already have true dual exhaust, w/out cats. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
#2
04-12-2018, 04:52 PM
Postmaster
#3
04-12-2018, 04:55 PM
Cargo Master
What is the gearing? The 5.0L doesn't have the low end torque to lug a heavy truck around, need to let it sing.
33x12.5 mud terrains on a lifted truck with a 5.0L is not going to net "good/decent mpg". I'd expect 10 in town, and no more than 15 highway if you're lucky. If improperly geared, the PCM will sit in "open loop" mode and just dump fuel, so counter-intuitively regearing to 4.10 or 4.56 could actually improve fuel economy.
Forget the cold air intake, throttle body spacer, and bored throttle body. The 5.0L is bottlenecked at the exhaust, not intake, so long tube headers are a good idea. Next up are the heads in terms of restriction; the E7 heads just don't flow a lot of air. But, not wanting to swap them on a healthy motor is understandable. Adding 1.7 ratio roller rockers can help with the stock cam, but if on a budget likely not worth it. If it were me, I'd regear and put long tubes on, while building a 5.8L to drop in when tired of the lack of low end.
33x12.5 mud terrains on a lifted truck with a 5.0L is not going to net "good/decent mpg". I'd expect 10 in town, and no more than 15 highway if you're lucky. If improperly geared, the PCM will sit in "open loop" mode and just dump fuel, so counter-intuitively regearing to 4.10 or 4.56 could actually improve fuel economy.
Forget the cold air intake, throttle body spacer, and bored throttle body. The 5.0L is bottlenecked at the exhaust, not intake, so long tube headers are a good idea. Next up are the heads in terms of restriction; the E7 heads just don't flow a lot of air. But, not wanting to swap them on a healthy motor is understandable. Adding 1.7 ratio roller rockers can help with the stock cam, but if on a budget likely not worth it. If it were me, I'd regear and put long tubes on, while building a 5.8L to drop in when tired of the lack of low end.
#4
04-12-2018, 06:41 PM
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#5
04-12-2018, 06:43 PM
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#6
04-12-2018, 06:50 PM
#7
04-12-2018, 07:03 PM
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trending Topics
#8
04-12-2018, 07:14 PM
More Turbo
#10
04-12-2018, 08:04 PM
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#11
04-13-2018, 08:53 AM
Senior User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Somewhere in the universe
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I won't even think about a heavier wheel and tire without taking gearing into consideration. It puts a lot of strain on the drivetrain and MPG's if the gearing is not up to the task.
It seems like a lot of people over look this when wanting to go with a lift and heavier wheel and tires.
If if you want to "do it right" in my opinion, re-gear it. The transfer case gears are going to have to be done as well if your going to be using the 4WD as well.
If you already have a newer good running engine dropped in, seems to me the only option is gearing. Even if you did go with another engine the gearing would still be an issue.
Its gonna cost some cash, but if you want to keep that wheel and tire set-up......
It seems like a lot of people over look this when wanting to go with a lift and heavier wheel and tires.
If if you want to "do it right" in my opinion, re-gear it. The transfer case gears are going to have to be done as well if your going to be using the 4WD as well.
If you already have a newer good running engine dropped in, seems to me the only option is gearing. Even if you did go with another engine the gearing would still be an issue.
Its gonna cost some cash, but if you want to keep that wheel and tire set-up......
#12
04-13-2018, 10:13 AM
Fleet Mechanic
#13
04-13-2018, 11:30 AM
Cargo Master
#14
04-13-2018, 04:08 PM
Senior User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Somewhere in the universe
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
If he changes gearing in the rear axle but not in the front and he attempts to use 4wd drive, the front axles would be spinning at a different speed than the rear which would cause issues. Unless I'm off base with ford trucks here.
The year before last I changed the gearing in my 2011 Dodge Ram and had to do both the rear end and the front gears to match.
Im I mistaken here? If so, I apologize for the bad info.
The year before last I changed the gearing in my 2011 Dodge Ram and had to do both the rear end and the front gears to match.
Im I mistaken here? If so, I apologize for the bad info.
#15
04-13-2018, 05:07 PM
Fleet Mechanic
If he changes gearing in the rear axle but not in the front and he attempts to use 4wd drive, the front axles would be spinning at a different speed than the rear which would cause issues. Unless I'm off base with ford trucks here.
The year before last I changed the gearing in my 2011 Dodge Ram and had to do both the rear end and the front gears to match.
Im I mistaken here? If so, I apologize for the bad info.
The year before last I changed the gearing in my 2011 Dodge Ram and had to do both the rear end and the front gears to match.
Im I mistaken here? If so, I apologize for the bad info.