Next weekend, 4/20/18 I'm doing a four wheel brake job. I'm replacing brakes pads front and rear and the front rotors. I'm approaching 83,000 miles on the OE equipment. No pulling or grabbing of any kind but the front rotors are shuddering again. I won't have them turned, they're headed for the scrap yard.

Is there anything that I should be aware of before beginning? I've never had to work on the truck so I'm kinda blind.

I've decided to use the high end AZ rotors and I'm using Motorcraft pads. I'm keeping it stock as I don't tow or haul much and the OE equipment performed pretty darned well.

Thoughts? Comments?

 

Good for you! Some great youtube videos if you want to prepare. I usually crack the bleeder valve open when pushing the piston back in before removing the caliper rather than force the old fluid up toward the ABS module. Proper lube of sliding parts is important. Money saved means you can eat out a few times.

 

Tim,

Just did mine in December, truck had 50k. Coupe thoughts, as always - just my .02.

- Be prepared to beat the crap out of the front rotors to get them off. Had to use a sledge hammer. I do live in the rust belt though...
- Rears were not as bad. Mine didn't require backing off the parking brake "star" adjustment gear but have heard that some folks do
- Recommend using anti-seize on the hub prior to installing to make it easier next time around.
- I pulled the slide pins, cleaned and re-greased with synthetic brake grease. Probably overkill but wanted everything fresh. I also greased the new pad slides (or whatever they are called) as well, figuring this would help mitigate uneven wear.
- Used a C-Clamp and old pad to push pistons back in. I personally don't open the system up, bleaders stay closed. I know there are many schools of though here but this has worked for me.
- Front pads have "ears" on the inboard pad. Be SURE to have this correct. Failure to do so will eventually chew away at the inside of wheel. Image below

NOTE this image is not my own, Below image from writeup here


Torque specs if needed. Gathered from various sources online sources(posts were from a service manual, so I think the are reliable and the numbers make sense).

Front: Caliper Guide Bolt: 27 ft/lb (324 in/lb) Anchor Plate: 184 ft/lb
Rear: Caliper Guide Bolt: 22 ft/lb (264 in/lb) Anchor Plate: 111 ft/lb

Hope this helps, good luck!

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...wheel-tip.html

 

I've had the best luck with a 2-jaw puller to get stuck rotors off.

get the puller around the edge of the rotor and push against the axle. You can use a socket over the axle nut and push against the socket if needed. Use an impact to tighten the puller and that will usually rattle them loose. If not, get it right enough that it is about to fold over on itself, then smack the rotor with a 2lb hammer. Works every time. Had to pull the original rotors off the back of our 02 outback this last fall. Even 15 years of salt was no match

other than that, I'd pull the caliper slides off and lube them up good with a silicone based lube. NAPA brand SylGlide is my brand of choice. Avoid petroleum based lubes, as they don't play well with the modern rubber parts.

As above, I also crack the bleeder and then flush each corner with fresh fluid. Now is the time to do it.

other than that, pretty straight forward stuff.

 

Thanks to all. I figured it would be as easy as all of my past vehicles. But, with the ABS stuff and electronics I was a little concerned. The rotors rusting won't be an issue here in SE Virginia. Silicone lube is a great suggestion as is the ears on the inside pad. I always compare what comes off the truck to what goes back on but I may have missed that one.

 

Slide pins on both of my front caliper brackets had essentially "welded" themselves in and I had to buy new caliper brackets. Hopefully this doesn't happen to you. So definitely re grease the slide pins.

 

just a suggestion on collapsing the pistons back into the calipers.
I have tried lots of tools from giant channel lock pliers, C-clamps, screw type spreader to the "caulking-gun" type.

The absolute easiest to use tool has been a ratcheting spreader like the Mac #4790470 spreader(I don't remember it being $70 though). Snap-on($75) and E-Bay($30-$35) have similar (caliper piston press).

Every tool has to earn its place in the toolbox, this one definitely has.

but , to each their own.

 

Tim this is just my opinion, but for me I steer clear of the auto parts stores for my truck. I've never really had any kind of good luck with their parts. So for me I run the Motorcraft Severe Duty brake pads and rotors on my truck. And I have never had an issue with warping the rotors. And I should mention that I have had to do my fare share of hard/sudden stops thanks to the way people drive here in the Pittsburgh area. Not to mention I have quite a few of heavy loads on the back of Black Betty. And not once have I had an issue of warping the rotors. But I should also add that with my shops discount I can often times get OE parts for about the same prices as the parts stores. And sometimes even cheaper then the parts stores. Also one other tip I'll add to what has already been said. Is to be sure to use a torque wrench when tightening your wheel lugs. Believe it or not over tightening the wheel lugs can and will cause your new rotors to warp. I've experienced this on my old Expy. And when the Mechanic at work suggested that I torque the wheels to the OE specs and explained why I figured that I would give it a try. And voila no more warped rotors after the next brake job. So now I'm sure to recommend that tidbit of advice to anyone that is a DIYer.

 

I second the above! I use the motorcraft severe pads and rotors. I get them from Amazon, also I advise a brake flush while you are doing the service based on age and mileage. Everything above is spot on, including proper pattern and torque of the wheels.

 

I agree on the brake flush. However that really isn't a DIY job on todays vehicles. Since you now need a good scan tool to go into the computer and cycle the modern ABS modules in order to get all of the fluid flushed through the system. The same is needed to properly bleed the system of air when ever you have to replace a brake line or caliper. Simply pumping the brake pedal like the old days is sufficient enough to get all of the old fluid out. This is best left for the dealer or trusted reputable repair shop to perform since they have the proper diagnostic scan tools needed to cycle the module.

 

I got my parts today. Duralast Gold rotors ($99.00) each and a three year warranty. The pads I bought from the dealer. They came with the hardware kit. Not all the pads at AZ came with the hardware. This is kind of silly to me but oh well. The pads came to $108.00 for both ends after a 10% military discount. I'm satisfied that I got the same as OE or better.

The new rotors have a screw hole in them to break them free from the hub in case they rust. Pretty cool.

 

Be sure to let us know how things go Tim.

 

OK, lengthy report that may help someone in the future. I gotta say that this is the easiest and most straight forward brake job that I've ever done.

For beginners, I used a turkey baster (a syringe would work too) to remove about three ounces of brake fluid from the master cylinder drawing the fluid level to below the minimum mark.
After slightly loosening the lug nuts, I lifted the front end with my floor jack and placed jack stands under the frame rails on each side. With the entire front end off the ground, i was able to turn the wheels in the direction that best exposed the caliper bracket bolts. I sprayed the bracket bolts and let them soak a bit.

Using a 13mm socket, I removed the calipers and slides and inspected the slide boots. Using my $9.00 brake spreader tool, I compressed the pistons in each caliper using the old brake pad to rest against the pistons.

I removed the caliper brackets using a 21mm socket then I removed the rotors. I then cleaned off the slides and lubed with Permatex synthetic brake parts lube. I slid the slides back into the boots. The rotors did need some persuasion BTW. I mounted the new rotors after de-rusting the hub. I snapped the new pad hardware in place, ran a bead of blue Permatex thread locker along the 21mm bolts and re-mounted the caliper brackets.

I set the new pads in place making sure that the pad with the ears was on the inside. I mounted the calipers and then mounted the tires.

For the rear:

I lifted the rear of the truck with my floor jack and placed jack stands under the frame on each side.

I sprayed the caliper bolts and let them soak a bit. Using a 10mm wrench, I removed the caliper bolts. I removed the calipers and with the inside pad still in place, I compressed the piston with my $9.00 spreader. I removed the slides, inspected the boots and replaced the slides. I mounted the new pads and snapped in the new hardware. I mounted the calipers in place then the tires.

The rear slides and bolts showed considerably more corrosion than the front. If I new what I know now, I would have bought new caliper bolts and slides for the rear.

I topped off the master cylinder to the max line. Before starting the truck, I pumped the pedal till it was tight. Then I started the truck and went for a ride to bed the pad and rotors. Smooth, smooth, smooth with no pulling or grabbing.

I'm by no means a mechanic nor should I ever tell someone or anyone how do something mechanical. But if this helps at all then it's good.

 

Did the caliper pins (slides) have a rubber isolator on them?



Something like this (arrow)

if it did you may get to do this again. I used that exact lube on pins that had the rubber isolator and it caused the rubber to swell and locked the caliper up.

if it didnt, you will probably be fine, but that lube may attack the rubber boot at the end of the slide.

something about the rubber ford uses doesn't like that permatex lube.....

i got to do that car 3 times before I figured out what the problem was; that's the only reason I bring it up.