I am nearing the time for my first oil change in my 2017 CCLB 6.2. Should I pull the trigger and go full synthetic? If so, is that a lifetime commitment...as in one you go full synthetic you never go back? Is the additional cost worth it? Are there synthetic brands that are preferred?

Driving info:
I drive about 10,000 miles a year.
It's a daily driver to and from work.
I pull a 7,000 to 8,000 camper 6 - 12 times a year...probably about 1,000 - 1,500 miles a year doing this.

Thanks.

 

FWIW I've seen no proof that once you go synthetic you can't go back. I'm a huge believer in running what the engineers told the factory to fill it with, unless the manual says to change it to something else at the first change.

This oil argument happens on every vehicle forum ever. We own a sports car and there are SO many threads about this stuff and people argue it to death. I run what the engineers who built the car say and our car has over 100,000 miles on it (VERY unusual for the type of car it is) and knock on wood we haven't had any problems.

Once our truck shows up, only the dealer will work on the truck and it'll get whatever they put in it, because they're going to put what the engineers who designed the engine tell them to put in it.

 

I went full synthetic on my second oil change, mostly because I have a good relationship with the service advisor (went to HS together) and he said it was better for hard applications like towing. Said I could go back if needed.

 

I am Mr. Dino. All the way.

My 2017 Expy is even a lease. In 39k miles, it goes back to Ford.

Absolutely no reason in the world to spend extra money on the truck.

But . . . .

Wally 5w-30 dino runs $12 in a 5 qt. jug.

Wall 5w-30 full syn runs $17 for a 5 qt. jug.

The truck takes 6 qts.

For the 3 times that I am going to have to change the oil in the next 3 years, I figure that I might as well spend the extra $18.

Now if you start talking "super moly titanium enriched" oil at $8-$9/qt., then I stick with dino.

 

If synthetic makes you feel better then that's great, but realize that your feelings are pretty much the only benefit. Cheap Dino oil changed regularly will suit the engine just as well for almost anyone.

 

I asked this same question in the 6.2 forum here. Had quite a few responses on the subject, worthwhile to check it out. My question is listed on page 3.

 

My 2 cents: If you're going to keep the truck for the next 15 years or so, OR if you do frequent, heavy towing, go full synthetic. If you're going to trade before then, no use spending the extra $.

 

 

The owners manual recommends Synthetic Blend for US owners. Full Synthetic is optional. I change my oil so religiously, I'm thinking I'll stick with the Ford Synth Blend as its reasonably priced and available at Wally World. Truck takes 7 quarts with filter.

 

I work my 2013 F350 like a pack mule for my landscape business. I started with Mobil 1 5W-30 or 0W-30 and never looked back. About every 7000-7500 miles is when the computer says to change it.

 

I went full syn on my first oil change (1,000 miles). I run it in all my Harley's and have never had a problem and they run hot as hell. Whatever makes you feel good is the way I look at most things.

 

I run full synthetic oil, analyze it, and have found that it can go over 12,000 miles per change. Once you do 10,000 miles it ends up costing the same an non-synthetic oil.

 

That is generally my "Go To" answer as well.

Except . . . .

Ford recommends 5w-30 semi-syn in the 3.5 EcoBlaster.

Wally does not make a semi-syn. Either straight dino or full syn.

So full syn is overkill.

But straight conventional does not meet Ford's requirements, at least for the EcoBlaster.

Best to check the book on what Ford recommends on the 6.2.

 

Most modern motor oils with their advanced additive packages are so good I don’t see running a brand name Dino oil being a problem. When’s the last time you ever heard of an oil related failure in a new car? Now if your towing full time or running a turbo-charged vehicle I’d definitely go full synthetic for the added heat. The proper weight of oil and a good quality oil filter are equally important. Run an oil analysis if you’re still curious.

Here’s an interesting report on motor oils. You’ll notice some conventional oils rated decent on the list.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com

 

Run the synthetic. I sleep better at night knowing it in everything I own with a motor from the lawnmower up.