Best exhaust suggestions for towing please
#1
Best exhaust suggestions for towing please
2005 F350, deleted, studded, gearhead unlimited tow tune, 12k fifth wheel trailer... Reading through another thread and I almost hit enter to reply, but pulled my finger back so not to hijack it so here I am. I read on the other thread, a suggestion to only go turbo back for towing due to back pressure needs for turbo response. The poster mentioned that he saw 300* lower egt with this and that would be fine for me.
Question, does everyone agree with this and are there any suggestions on what brand/vendor to use? Also, will I see this 300* difference with a 4" or should I go with 5"? I do have a gutted cat right now but I would probably put the functioning cat back on if installing a new exhaust as I'm not sure if it would really make much of a difference. Besides, the wife's been whining about the diesel exhaust smell while idling ever since I installed gutted cat.
Any input appreciated, T
Question, does everyone agree with this and are there any suggestions on what brand/vendor to use? Also, will I see this 300* difference with a 4" or should I go with 5"? I do have a gutted cat right now but I would probably put the functioning cat back on if installing a new exhaust as I'm not sure if it would really make much of a difference. Besides, the wife's been whining about the diesel exhaust smell while idling ever since I installed gutted cat.
Any input appreciated, T
#2
There is NO reason to go 5".
I am running similiar to you except DRW and stock headbolts. I am running 10k tune but towing 12k+ 5er and truck is 9.8k#s. I've been running the cat delete Diamond Eye 4" exhaust with muffler system which came with the 3.5" downpipe.
Pulling a 7% grade the temps are very manageable. I can make the EGTs go up to 1300 if I floor it but that's not how I run. If I see the temps creeping over 1150-1200 I back off slightly and hold temp around 1150 modulating the fuel pedal and watching boost around 22psi. In tow mode it is always in the right gear. For years I've done this and made it home everytime. 177k miles.
I am running similiar to you except DRW and stock headbolts. I am running 10k tune but towing 12k+ 5er and truck is 9.8k#s. I've been running the cat delete Diamond Eye 4" exhaust with muffler system which came with the 3.5" downpipe.
Pulling a 7% grade the temps are very manageable. I can make the EGTs go up to 1300 if I floor it but that's not how I run. If I see the temps creeping over 1150-1200 I back off slightly and hold temp around 1150 modulating the fuel pedal and watching boost around 22psi. In tow mode it is always in the right gear. For years I've done this and made it home everytime. 177k miles.
#3
Join Date: Jan 2011
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I agree I see no advantage to a 5" exhaust on a 6.0 as a 4" is more than enough to remove the exhaust without causing back pressure on your turbo. I run a 4" with a 4" down pipe. I first had a 3.5 pipe into a 4" No soot trap with muffler. I tow a 16k 5ver and after I changed to a 4"down pipe I found my EGT's on the same trip with about the same outside temps to be anywhere from 250 to 300 degrees cooler. This is towing thru the white mountains in New Hampshire with the cruise set at 73 Mph. I find NO addition turbo lag and no loss of torque. A turbo does not benefit from any back pressure You want the turbine to be free of resistance. Remember a turbo spools by pressure and heat The Pressure from the cylinder combustion and the Heat is the differential from the inlet gas to the exhaust gas as it goes thru the turbine, A larger downpipe allows the gas to expand faster and lose its heat faster thus making the velocity faster do to the pressure differential. My first book on turbo charging engine was Maximum Boost and it really helped me to develop some high HP reliable 4 cylinders back in my racing days.
#4
With my cat gutted, I'm getting a pretty strong diesel exhaust, which my wife constantly complains about. Did you notice a difference in strong exhaust smell with the cat delete?
#6
I agree I see no advantage to a 5" exhaust on a 6.0 as a 4" is more than enough to remove the exhaust without causing back pressure on your turbo. I run a 4" with a 4" down pipe. I first had a 3.5 pipe into a 4" No soot trap with muffler. I tow a 16k 5ver and after I changed to a 4"down pipe I found my EGT's on the same trip with about the same outside temps to be anywhere from 250 to 300 degrees cooler. This is towing thru the white mountains in New Hampshire with the cruise set at 73 Mph. I find NO addition turbo lag and no loss of torque. A turbo does not benefit from any back pressure You want the turbine to be free of resistance. Remember a turbo spools by pressure and heat The Pressure from the cylinder combustion and the Heat is the differential from the inlet gas to the exhaust gas as it goes thru the turbine, A larger downpipe allows the gas to expand faster and lose its heat faster thus making the velocity faster do to the pressure differential. My first book on turbo charging engine was Maximum Boost and it really helped me to develop some high HP reliable 4 cylinders back in my racing days.
#7
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#8
There's no way exhaust smell can get in unless the door is open witj a strong tail wind.
. If you're getting exhaust smell inside the cab, especially with defrost on then you may have a leaky up pipe flange, cracked bellow on the up-pipe, or some other leak in the engine bay. Look for black streaks of soot and that will be your leak.
#10
#11
I didn't hollow out the cat, I eliminated it with 4" straight pipe to the 4" muffler and out over the axle out the passenger rear side like stock.
There's no way exhaust smell can get in unless the door is open witj a strong tail wind.
. If you're getting exhaust smell inside the cab, especially with defrost on then you may have a leaky up pipe flange, cracked bellow on the up-pipe, or some other leak in the engine bay. Look for black streaks of soot and that will be your leak.
There's no way exhaust smell can get in unless the door is open witj a strong tail wind.
. If you're getting exhaust smell inside the cab, especially with defrost on then you may have a leaky up pipe flange, cracked bellow on the up-pipe, or some other leak in the engine bay. Look for black streaks of soot and that will be your leak.
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