2002 F550 - Turbo Question
#1
2002 F550 - Turbo Question
I just bought a 2002 F550 7.3 4x4 6 speed truck.
It has a few quirks to work out. One of them is that the wastegate actuator is missing the vacuum line. It looks like it rusted off the canister and just fell off.
Second issue is that the plug on the intake plenum is missing. I think it’s a green plug. Is this for cold starts or what?
The truck is lacking power and acceleration down low in the revs and then once it starts reving up it gets power back at around 2k Rpms.
Think it’s as simple as the wastegate actuator?
Thanks guys!
Second issue is that the plug on the intake plenum is missing. I think it’s a green plug. Is this for cold starts or what?
The truck is lacking power and acceleration down low in the revs and then once it starts reving up it gets power back at around 2k Rpms.
Think it’s as simple as the wastegate actuator?
Thanks guys!
#2
The wastegate solenoid is bolted to the front of the intake Y pipe. It should have a red line that goes to the wastegate diaphragm, and a green line that’s goes to the intake pipe just after the air filter near the crankcase vent coupler. Most people disable the wastegate plumbing to get more boost. If someone removed the plumbing, hopefully they plugged the boost reference nipple, but I doubt that’s the reason for the sluggish performance. Have you checked for boost or exhaust leaks?
#3
The wastegate solenoid is bolted to the front of the intake Y pipe. It should have a red line that goes to the wastegate diaphragm, and a green line that’s goes to the intake pipe just after the air filter near the crankcase vent coupler. Most people disable the wastegate plumbing to get more boost. If someone removed the plumbing, hopefully they plugged the boost reference nipple, but I doubt that’s the reason for the sluggish performance. Have you checked for boost or exhaust leaks?
I’ll get a picture tomorrow. I haven’t done anything. I literally just bought the truck tonight. I know a bunch about OBS 7.3s but not so much about SD 7.3s. The line I’m referring to I believe is a red line. Goes to a canister on the actual turbo itself. Back right corner of turbo. Canister has a rod coming out of it.
#5
Sorry for the massive images but I don’t know how to resize them on my phone after photo bucket stopped working. I’ll try to resize them from my computer later.
The green plug in the first picture is missing both the wires. The red vacuum line coming off of it looks kinked and possibly rubbed through. On the turbo that line is rotted off the canister and that line also appears to be semi kinked. Thanks.
The green plug in the first picture is missing both the wires. The red vacuum line coming off of it looks kinked and possibly rubbed through. On the turbo that line is rotted off the canister and that line also appears to be semi kinked. Thanks.
#7
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#9
Define considerable. Like should I be able to move it by hand? I’ll feel the one on my 450 tomorrow to get an idea of how it’s supposed to feel. Also which way is shut?
#11
All of that stuff you're pointing to is your wastegate stuff. The wire and small plastic hoses are off of the solenoid. I did leave the solenoid in place on mine in the event that a future owner might want to reactivate it but, as stated above, my turbo has had all of the hardware removed. Primarily because I installed a van turbo and they don't have it. Oh, it looks like soot on the firewall there, a symptom of leaking up pipe gaskets.
#12
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Blairsville, Pennsylvania
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The green connector is your wastegate solenoid electrical connector.
The vacuum lines are one piece- the red and green stiff tubes.
I recently bought a replacement setup for $20 here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/332079299287
Quality OEM part and cheap enough not to mess with individual boots and that odd connector in the middle.
The guys are getting you fixed up on the wastegate problem (likely)
Was this a flood vehicle with all the rust on the wastegate actuator, or did it sit a long time?
If you can tell us why you think it corroded like that, there may be a few other things we can recommend you check or do some maintenance on
The vacuum lines are one piece- the red and green stiff tubes.
I recently bought a replacement setup for $20 here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/332079299287
Quality OEM part and cheap enough not to mess with individual boots and that odd connector in the middle.
The guys are getting you fixed up on the wastegate problem (likely)
Was this a flood vehicle with all the rust on the wastegate actuator, or did it sit a long time?
If you can tell us why you think it corroded like that, there may be a few other things we can recommend you check or do some maintenance on
#13
Ok so even with that plugged not plugged in, and those vacuum lines possibly leaking, and the actuator not plugged in the truck shouldn’t be low on power in the lower RPMs? If the actuator is stuck it seems to be stuck more closed than more open.
Let me tell you more about the truck. I bought it mostly for parts for my 450, but then realized the truck was still too nice to use just for parts. It has brand new Goodyear tires all around, brand new pads, rotors, calipers in the front and rear. New e brake cables. New fuel tank. Trans mounted PTO. It’s a 4x4 6 speed truck and my 450 is auto and I’ve always loved stick. I paid $4,000 for it, which is pretty cheap considering what it is.
My initial thought was since the fuel tank got replaced that maybe delamination occurred in the tank and sucked up a bunch of junk into the fuel lines, filter, and possibly the injectors. Figured I’d start by replacing the noticeably broken stuff before digging deeper as it’s cold out and my garage won’t fit this truck.
Truck is also at a quarter tank so I want to check the pickup screens for debris as well as the shower head on the pickup to make sure it’s not sucking air.
I don’t know why that actuator is so rusty. This truck has typical rot; cab corners, rockers, etc, but everything under the hood minus that actuator looks nice. I think the truck sat, but am unsure on how long.
I bought it from a guy who claimed he got it from a tree company that owed him money. It’s still lettered with the company’s name and they look like a reputable company. Maybe I should give them a call and ask about it.
Let me tell you more about the truck. I bought it mostly for parts for my 450, but then realized the truck was still too nice to use just for parts. It has brand new Goodyear tires all around, brand new pads, rotors, calipers in the front and rear. New e brake cables. New fuel tank. Trans mounted PTO. It’s a 4x4 6 speed truck and my 450 is auto and I’ve always loved stick. I paid $4,000 for it, which is pretty cheap considering what it is.
My initial thought was since the fuel tank got replaced that maybe delamination occurred in the tank and sucked up a bunch of junk into the fuel lines, filter, and possibly the injectors. Figured I’d start by replacing the noticeably broken stuff before digging deeper as it’s cold out and my garage won’t fit this truck.
Truck is also at a quarter tank so I want to check the pickup screens for debris as well as the shower head on the pickup to make sure it’s not sucking air.
I don’t know why that actuator is so rusty. This truck has typical rot; cab corners, rockers, etc, but everything under the hood minus that actuator looks nice. I think the truck sat, but am unsure on how long.
I bought it from a guy who claimed he got it from a tree company that owed him money. It’s still lettered with the company’s name and they look like a reputable company. Maybe I should give them a call and ask about it.
#14
Join Date: Mar 2015
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Those vacuum line leaks can make running and power troubles.
How can the MAP get accurate info with the leaks? That would be a big one in my book.
Maybe the truck sat and something built a nest over the actuator area.
They are cheap enough on Ebay, though. $20-$40 for stock level.
But even if you disconnect the red line from that actuator, the spring is likely rusted out inside and not able to hold the wastegate closed.
I agree with the other guys. Wastegate problems AND vacuum problems. Get those fixed and you might be pleasantly surprised
Oh...look at the vacuum hose from the spider to the MAP sensor. See if it is rotted or clogged, especially since it probably sat for a while. And check the airbox and filter for any nests
How can the MAP get accurate info with the leaks? That would be a big one in my book.
Maybe the truck sat and something built a nest over the actuator area.
They are cheap enough on Ebay, though. $20-$40 for stock level.
But even if you disconnect the red line from that actuator, the spring is likely rusted out inside and not able to hold the wastegate closed.
I agree with the other guys. Wastegate problems AND vacuum problems. Get those fixed and you might be pleasantly surprised
Oh...look at the vacuum hose from the spider to the MAP sensor. See if it is rotted or clogged, especially since it probably sat for a while. And check the airbox and filter for any nests