I know the subject has practically been beaten to death, but I'm hoping someone has straight forward info for me. Even if that's a link to archives.
I have an 06 F250 that tows a toy hauler a bit, and has a slightly upgraded stereo system.
I'm on a limited budget, but obviously don't want to worry about having to sink more money on a new alternator every year. So, practical advice would be much appreciated!

 

Pickup, limited budget, slight upgrade with sounds, doesn't want to flip rebuilt alternators.

$162 total for new 140a, no need to upgrade wiring if you don't want to, no core.

 

I don't hear much about Bosch alternators. Reviews on Amazon look legit, but what's your take as compared to motorcraft?

 

Very well may be the same manufacturer. Castings are of the same mold design as are a few other details. There's lot of parts in Ford vehicles that are Bosch. One of those reviews is mine.

 

Man, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your fast and straight forward answers. I've been putting off the alternator for a couple weeks, because I had to drop a boat load of money on a few other things, but now my headlights are pulsating and battery light is periodically flickering. I'm doing the scramble as to not get stranded and it seemed like the more "research " I did, the more conflicting the answers I got. So, many thank yous kind sir!

 

One more question though? I plugged it in to Amazon and it "does not fit your ...." Does the pulley correct that problem? 06 f250 6.0

 

It does. For whatever goofy reason, maybe that it’s a 140a rather then 110a, it keeps coming up with that. I’ve actually bought two, installed the last one for a guy who used to have a 6.0. The only issue you may have with a latter year truck is your alternator post may be clocked more towards the drivers side, so massaging the cable may be needed. Or if your comfortable, reclocking the back of the alternator case.

Some later model trucks came with the 140a, so is this a replacement because of issues or are you looking for more power?

 

If you don't want to take Jack's word for it (as opposed to Amazon's), there are over 500 threads on alternators on just this 6.0L forum alone, easily found by just typing in the word "alternator" and selecting 6.0L forum, which reduces results to those that apply to your 2006 6.0L F250.

 

The pulley is get it to rotate a little faster at idle, to bring the current output up and thereby voltage during the time the glow plugs are on, and to bring up idle voltage athot idle when there are a lot of electrical accessories on.

 

Jack, I appreciate your help and your restraint for condescending posts. I haven't fully learned how to navigate archived threads. I spent about 45 minutes before I posted one of my own. I'm ordering the parts now, feeling confident and more knowlegable. So again, thank you!

 

No problem. Your under 30 posts (that’s an inside joke).

The Bosch on my 6.0 being tested with a small pulley.



Edit, so at cold idle it’s putting out 128a.

 

And a vid about what you’ll need to do to flip to the smaller pulley.


I just put the same one back on, but you get the idea. When your flipping alternators to prevent a short all you have to do is remove the small cable that booths to the top of the passenger side battery terminal. That disconnects power to both “hot” leads to the alternator. 10mm I believe. Just make sure you reinstall it before starting the truck.

And not that you need it but good info for the situation your in now.

 

FYI - You may need one more thing. Spacers that go under the alternator mounts if you are using the small pulley. The small pulley reduces correct belt tension. The spacers fix that problem. Got them with my DC Power 250 amp setup.

Ed

 

No, you don’t. With this case the smaller pulley change is still with the range of the tensioner.

 

He'll be fine with the stock belt and tensioner. Consider also at least the hot side upgrades in Jack's thread in the tech folder:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tery-life.html

And for goodness sake have both batteries load tested. Bad batteries can take down a good Alternator as a Bad Alternator can kill good batts. And either or both can kill a good FICM...

And Y2K really is a good guy, sometimes comes off a bit gruff - I'm going with had a tough childhood or spent too much time working on 7.3s...

Scott