Hi folks,

since some of you like to see pics, I'll attach some pics of my front disc conversion. I bought the kit from CPP including all the parts needed (discs, brackets, caliper, hoses...) and the brake line kit from Midfifty. What can I say: it all fits perfect and was really plug'n play so to say. I also bought a remote reservoir for the brake fluid, but didn't install it since it was no problem to fill the MC using a syringe with a short hose and a mirror - easy to accomplish. Sorry for the poor quality of the pics.

 

Looks Great. Nice work on the brake lines.

 

Thanks Tracy, I bought a new cutting tool, a flaring tool and a bending tool and made some tests to get a handle on that job. It worked out nice so far.

Ohh, I just forgot: of course I made some test drives and what can I say: the difference to the drum brakes is huge! The truck is braking like a modern car now! I really like it stock - but improving the front brakes was the right decision! And after painting the brackets in black (they came in a golden color) the setup doesn't look strange on the truck, almost as if it belongs that way ;-)

 

Looks good Rico. The purpose of the remote fill is also to tell you when you need to add fluid provided that you got one that is translucent and has clear hoses.



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Hi Pete,

I'd say I've got the same translucent reservoir as You have installed. Maybe I'll install it one day. But since I check all my cars frequently for all fluids as oil and brake fluid, I'll leave it as it is for now, at least until I'm getting bored . By the way - thanks for your advice to make the conversion and where to get the kit!

 

I like to share a problem I encountered when the same conversion on my first ’56 F100. If the master cylinder reservoir is below the calipers, brake fluid will siphon to the master cylinder. This will cause the calipers to lock up.

To solve the problem I had to put a 2 lb. residual value in the brake line before the master cylinder. I cannot see your entire setup so I thought I would share this advice.

 

I never have had that problem. Maybe because I have a disc/drum MC-booster-prop valve setup with residual check valve built in.

 

Thanks for the advice! I checked everything several times and made test drives. Until now the new setup worked fine, no lock up at the calipers. But 'll check the difference in height between the MC and the calipers. If I had to guess, I'd say the MC sits slightly higher. I'll check it out to make sure. thnx

I have a disc/drum setup with prop-valve, maybe that prevents the siphon effects...

I have to solve another minor problem. On the passenger side the connection from the brake hose to the caliper is leaking a bit (only two drops came out slowly when applying pressure). I'll replace the copper washers with slightly thicker aluminium washers. It seems the copper washers are a bit to hard. I double-checked everything, all surfaces are plane and clean.

Right now, winter is coming closer and the truck will spend the winter in the warm and dry garage. In spring I'll install the new engine and afterwards make extented test drives.

 

Hi.
I am going to install this kit soon on my 56 f100.
Could you please tell me what line goes to the left front wheel and wich one goes to the right fron line ?
I don`t have the instruction papers anymore. Bought the kit 7-8 years ago and all the papers are missing.
What kind of brake fluid is used on the master cylinder ?
Hope you can help me with this questions.

Mc.

 

I don't know what you bought but see if this helps.

 

You can also put a plug in the top port to the front brakes and install a tee in the front line to split from left to right side some place below the master cylinder

 

Hi Mc,

on pictures 4 to 8, you can see the proportioning valve from the underside. I marked the two lines to the front with VR (vorne rechts - meaning front right) and VL (vorne links - meaning front left). You can install the lines the same way or plug one connection close and connect only one line to the PC, separating the line afterwards with a T-connector, as Tracy wrote...

 

Thanks for answering so fast.
Now I know where to put the brakelines.
But does anyone have a copy of the instructions on how to install the disc brake kit ?
I found out how to mount the hardware for the master sylinder online, but nothing about the disc conversion kit.
My kit is from LMC truck. I sent them an E-mail asking, but they did not have them.
They said they will try to ask the supplyer of the kit to send me an E-mail about the installation.
I am crossing my fingers, but if someone has a copy of it could you be so kind to send it by E-mail or post it here ?

Mc.

 

It's easy to test a master cylinder for a built-in residual valve. Gently press a tiny screwdriver or straightened paper clip into the port. If you feel gentle resistance, that's the valve. If solid then no residual valve. I learned this from an old mechanic friend.

 

The disc brake conversion was one of the first changes I made in the eighty's to a '56 F100 I had. I used the original single master cylinder. It did not have a residual valve built into it. When I drove the truck after the conversion, the front calipers would lock up. Without the Internet and the aid of forums like this, I was stumped. I was unaware of the complexities of mixing disc and drum brakes at the time. Unfortunately for me, the brakes locked up on the Interstate and I had to have the truck towed back to my home.

Thanks for the tip. Research is so much easier now that you have thousands of knowledgeable people around the world to ask for help.