Broke an outer axle u joint and 2 shafts yesterday. I was in a bunch of icy rock, with ~800 lbs on the flatbed. 4x4low, with 32" tires. It was a Precision u-joint, and the breakage was near full lock. It hopped and popped (turning with wheel spin trying to get traction). Now I'm wondering if it broke because I was being dumb, and stock shafts will be fine with more care, or if 4340 replacement shafts make sense for me. Or, if Precision joints are the root cause. I'll be going with a Spicer joint for sure.

What do you think? 32" tires with 4L in rocks on a 6000lb truck too much for stock shafts or was it operator error?

Headed out to pull it apart and see if there's collateral damage.

 

You can't go to full steering lock in 4x4 there simply isn't enough articulation in a single u-joint for that.

 

Is it a half ton?

 

Humphrey, yes, with a mild 351W in a SCSB F150. It has upgraded Yukon rear shafts in the 8.8" but I've never done anything more than u-joint replacements in the D44.

Paul, I've hit lock during wheel spin before, but in light mud, and just let the wheel turn back toward center during u-joint bind. I may have been against a rock here, and it couldn't return easily.. Thanks for the reminder, I was not being careful in that regard.

 

Does a ttb 50 bolt in or is fan needed

 

Fab not fan. I mean a 44 isn't a horrible axle but the chromoly shafts will help alot

 

The D50 TTB has different length beams and leaf spring perches instead of coils like the half ton D44 TTB. The third member of a D50 can be put in place of the D44 third (bolts to the D44 housing) and the D44 stub shafts fit the D50 spider gears. The D50 right inner stub shaft, and female side of the slip joint can be swapped in as well; this increases the inner u-joint size and upgrades the weak side of the slip joint. But, the knuckles are not interchangeable, and so you're stuck with the D44 intermediate shaft and outer stub shafts.

I pulled it apart, no collateral damage. Just the joint & both shafts. I have an outer stub shaft from the 80's but its a little too short to be able to put the outer most C-clip on. 1996 D44 TTB had a different spindle (and seals) than the earlier D44 TTB's, and I guess one of the differences is length.

I did some reading on axle shaft materials; chromoly are much stronger than 1040 or 1050! But, I can get a used stock shaft for 1/10 what it costs to upgrade my D44 to chromo. Might go the cheap route, be a little more careful, and if I have issues again look into a beefier axle.

 

Had a spare stub shaft (new old stock) that was given to me years ago, but it is too short. I can't find any reference to Ford using different stub shafts between 1980-1996 in the D44's. Strange.. The pictured part label may or may not be correct for this axle, but it was in the box. Maybe this is a D44 straight axle part? I have no idea.




Broken axle on right (out of 1996 F150) and NOS axle on the left.



Old part label that was with the NOS axle.



Can't get a C-clip on the shaft. Warn standard hub body.



1996 axle, easily can get C-clip on.

 

You're right that the '96 axle shaft is longer. I have (2) '92's and (2) '95's.

Both the '92's are shorter than the '95's. It's easily noticable when you have the rims and center caps on.

Hopefully someone can shed some light on why Ford changed the length. I also seem to believe it coincides with bolt front brakes instead of the older slide pin brakes.

Below is a pic of my '92

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Above is the '95

 

The seal system changed, along with the spindle, in 95' (I think it was then). What's odd is I've never seen different shafts listed. I'd be interested in knowing the length of the replacements listed by JBG and RockAuto.

 

Same issue this guy had: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/852941-warn-locking-hubs-spindle-axle-conversion-on-bronco-beamed-ranger.html . I was on the edge of my seat waiting for the resolution. No dice.

 

You need some Spicer joints....always.

 

I have since been learned... Spent some quality time over on FSB today and read the same thing.

I replaced the inner joint with spicer a few years ago, the non-greaseable type. Thought, at the time, greaseable were better, and I was actually making a mistake. Never thought about the strength of drilled being compromised. The outers are drilled Precisions (one of which is grenaded and long gone!).

Two 5-760X's ordered, with a 1541H intermediate shaft. That should be enough for my use. 32" tire isn't much.

I emailed JBG to inquire about the outer stub shaft lengths.

 

I, too, once thought greasable joints were better. It's actually rather amazing how long sealed spicers last.

 

Spicer joints came in, and this just showed up:

It's a Yukon 4340 shaft. This thing is stout! I'll be putting parts in today or tomorrow.