Hi everyone.

I performed my first oil change after owning the truck just about 1 month and having racked up 2,302 miles in that time.

After accumulating 1,400 miles I did my first tow.

I own a Mesa Ridge 328 BHS TT and it weighs just under 10,000 lbs dry. We have been on 2 trips and since they were just long weekends we did have it loaded down so I'm guessing we were hauling around 11,000 lbs.

I also did what most people would consider is a hard break in. Lot's of negative compression down hills in an attempt to better seat the rings and help provide variety for the rest of the drivetrain. I do a modified version of the Moto Man Method.

The goal for my first oil changes on all my cars has been to get the contaminants out of the engine and not follow

I will probably do my next oil change again near the 2,500 mile range and then extend to 5,000 then 10,000 miles depending on what Blackstone reports to me.

I will keep posting the results of each oil change here.

Thanks.

 

As a mechanic, I'm wondering what "negative compression" is?

 

I guess it's my term for engine braking. Putting compression against the rings in a way they typically don't get early on during the break in procedure.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

So less pressure than normal?

 

What I do is long, extended engine braking downhill. So for the F250 with a low redline of just 4,000 RPM on the PSD I did 2,200-2,500 RPM engine braking down 1/2 mile hills that are pretty steep. I do this a few dozen times in the first 300 miles. I wouldn't say less pressure just maybe different pressure for the rings.

 

Well, that's a lot less cylinder pressure than going up the hill.
Whatever works for you I guess!

 

Thanks. Ever since I started doing this with my gas engines I have not had one that burns oil. Typically keep my cars until 150,000. The easy break in like the manufactures want us to do lead to cars burning oil at the 80,000 to 125,000 mark.

We will see what happens with the PSD and this thread can help track progress.

 

I have a new 2017 F350 and I was wondering if there are any tips on changing oil. I changed my 6.0 since 2005 with no issues.

 

Don't misjudge how far the oil will come out laterally when you first remove the bolt, and get a fumoto valve.

 

2 tips.

1. Don't use a Walmart style oil collector for the oil from the pan. 99% chance it will over flow.

2. Poke a hole in either the bottom or side of the oil filter to drain the oil from the filter. You won't believe how much oil comes out of the oil filter if you don't do this. It's easy to do with a small hammer and a pick or small head philips.

Here's a thread I started on this topic.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-and-tips.html

 

What is a fumoto valve and where do I find one?

What type or brand of oil is recommended?

I have been using Delo 400 in all the other diesel engines that I have.

 

The valve is a quick drain valve. Just google it. I didn’t install the one sent to me because I didn’t feel it had long enough threads to stay secure. It’s a mess free oil change so I decided to keep this part stock.

Ford has a new oil requirement for the 6.7. Just make sure whatever oil you use meets that standard.

 

Just Be mindful that if the threads are too long...

 

What is a fumoto valve and where do I find one? Don't need one nor do you need to punch holes in the filter.

What type or brand of oil is recommended? Only what is accepted to Fords standard.

 

I know...I wasn't looking for them to be longer than the stock drain plug...I just wanted them close to the same and they are short enough for me to skip the fumoto for now.

Here is the Ford standard for the 6.7 PSD. WSS-M2C171-F1

I believe this is the latest updated on approved oils meeting the above standard.

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...SSM2C171F1.pdf